Cycling in Switzerland

Lucerne - Rigi Kulmn

Mount Rigi is clearly visible from Lucerne. Although the sky holds nothing good in store for us, especially for a ride at altitude, we get on our bikes (I apologise to Luigino, who boasts a brand-new Cannondale of more than contained weight; but that's a bit of a show...) and head for the summit. After skirting a small part of the lake, when the road begins to climb, none of us "forces" the pace; we are almost frozen before the majesty of the landscape that leaves behind us an ever smaller Lake Lucerne. We stop for lunch before taking the path that will lead us to the summit. From the table of the mountain hut, shifting our gaze towards an already tiny Lucerne, we feel as if we are entering a model village (like the ones with toy trains).

I don't know if it was hunger, but from there on this sensation, already familiar to Alessandro and Luigino, skilled mountaineers, would become more and more frequent. With our wheels already muddy and our bikes already dusty, we open one of the numerous wooden gates that mark off the fenced areas used for grazing, and follow the precise directions found along the route: Rigi Kulm. After a few kilometres the cyclists give way to the hikers; the path becomes less and less rideable, and more than once we have to bow before a tortuous and cruel route, which forces us to get off our bikes and push. Along the way we greet many hikers who make way for us seeing us in obvious difficulty. But let us give Caesar what is Caesar's: I am the one who, before anyone else, crossed the threshold of tolerance for fatigue.

A couple of hikers will still be laughing about a truly spectacular fall I took practically from a standstill. After a stop to admire the landscape, our gaze, back on the pedals, meets the rails that guide a train from Vitznau to the Rigi station, which we reach shortly after. This is the oldest cog railway in Europe, the first in the Alps. At the sight of the train our eyes meet and, after a hearty laugh, we continue our journey towards the summit, now very close. A couple of truly demanding ramps and we are at the top, where we remain enchanted by the view of Lake Lucerne and Lake Zug, which we will reach in one of the coming days. Soon we are enveloped in clouds, which will accompany us on a breathtaking descent, beautiful, fast, but truly cold.

Lucerne - Willisau

Willisau is a small town about 35 kilometres from Lucerne, distinctive for the two gates that enclose it within its medieval walls. Our route will be easy, since we can pedal freely on a cycle path that takes us to Emmen first and then Wolhusen, before leaving us at Willisau. The route, despite being 80 kilometres, is not at all demanding: the elevation gain is only 200 metres. Here you find the famous museum of agriculture, which offers a glimpse into the life and work of farmers in Switzerland of times past and shows the developments of modern farming techniques.

Wilderswil - Kleine Sheidegg

Today's goal is to see the north face of Mount Heiger, famous among climbers for its high climbing difficulty. From Lucerne we drive to the town of Wilerswil, in the Jungfrau region, known for its winter holiday resorts: Grindelwald, Wengen, Interlaken. From this last resort town a mountain train departs for the highest station in Europe, at 3454 m altitude, on the Jungfraujoch, the roof of Europe. Our bikes are champing at the bit and, although our legs beg for a little mercy, we set off calmly towards the summit. The approach lasts about a couple of hours, on a road that is not particularly demanding but constantly uphill, which takes us up to Grindelwald. Here we stop for a hearty and succulent packed lunch. Each of us is silently immersed in their own thoughts (or worries) about the climb that awaits us.

On the map it looks truly demanding and the tension is clearly visible on our faces. A very few pedal strokes are enough to understand that today we'll be sweating bullets: a 35% gradient, just to give you an idea. Today too the sky is overcast. Only for a few minutes do we manage to see the peaks surrounding us, majestic above the valley. We take the opportunity to take the ritual photographs and catch our breath a little. Today too, although the effort reaches heart-stopping levels, Switzerland offers us wonderful views and magnificent landscapes. As soon as we set off again, after reaching the first "false flat", we realise we've taken the wrong road. Stefano, who has more miles in his legs than any of us, offers to go and find a path that will allow us to reach the mule track that should take us to Kleine Scheidegg.

When we see him in the distance beckoning us to join him, we breathe a sigh of relief and get back on the pedals. For the next few kilometres we go into the woods, on a path that is always impeccable and only occasionally unrideable. When we come out of the woods, our sight is delighted by the refuge, which signals the end of the effort. We are at Klein Scheidegg, at 2061 m altitude, but unfortunately, due to bad weather, the 1000 metres of rock of the north face of Mount Heiger are shrouded in fog, invisible to our eyes. Much closer are the beers that cheer our tiredness, though not enough to make up for the disappointment of not seeing the "sacred monster". But the fun is at hand: the descent awaiting us is, at times, very technical and we all treat ourselves to skids and "impossible" lines.

We hurtle down towards Wengen, a well-known ski resort, where we'll stop for a brief visit among the shops and streets crowded with tourists. Our computers read 52 kilometres and a good 1500 metres of elevation gain: a demanding stage to tackle with a bit of training.

Lucerne - Zug

After yesterday's big stage, still with a bitter taste in our mouths, we set off for Zug, a small town on the lake of the same name that we were able to admire from the summit of Mount Rigi. Today too we take advantage of the cycle path which, away from the main road, takes us to Emmen, Ebikon, Gisikon and Cham, where we stop for lunch. This small town is on Lake Zug. In front of us is our destination. We follow the lake for a few kilometres, on a road that is not at all demanding and after a short time we arrive at our destination. The town is small but very beautiful; everything is reachable on foot. Here you can admire the Clock Tower, the symbol of the town.

Mount Pilatus

Today's goal is to see the north face of Mount Eiger, famous among mountaineers for its high climbing difficulty. From Lucerne we drive to the town of Wilderswil, in the Jungfrau region, known for its winter holiday resorts: Grindelwald, Wengen, Interlaken. From this last holiday resort a mountain train departs for the highest station in Europe, at 3454 m altitude, on the Jungfraujoch, the roof of Europe. Our bikes are champing at the bit and, although our legs are begging for a little mercy, we set off calmly towards the summit. The approach lasts about a couple of hours, on a road that is not particularly demanding but constantly uphill, which takes us up to Grindelwald. Here we stop for a hearty and succulent packed lunch. Each of us is silently immersed in their own thoughts (or worries) about the climb that awaits us.

On the map it looks truly demanding and the tension is clearly visible on our faces. A very few pedal strokes are enough to understand that today we'll be spitting nails: a climb at 35%, just to give you an idea. Today too the sky is overcast. Only for a few minutes do we manage to see the peaks that surround us, majestic above the valley. We take the opportunity to snap the obligatory photos and to catch our breath a little. Today too, although the effort reaches heart-stopping levels, Switzerland offers us wonderful views and magnificent landscapes. As soon as we set off again, after reaching the first "false flat", we realise we have taken the wrong road. Stefano, who has more kilometres in his legs than any of us, offers to go and find a path that will allow us to reach the mule track that is to take us to Kleine Scheidegg.

When we see him in the distance beckoning us to join him, we breathe a sigh of relief and get back on the pedals. Over the next few kilometres we plunge into the woods, on an always impeccable path that is only unrideable in places. When we come out of the woods, our sight is delighted by the mountain hut, which signals the end of the effort. We are at Kleine Scheidegg, at 2061 m altitude but unfortunately, due to bad weather, the 1000 metres of rock of the north face of Mount Eiger are shrouded in fog, invisible to our eyes. Much closer are the beers that cheer our weariness, though not enough to make up for the disappointment of not seeing the "sacred monster". But the fun is at hand: the descent that awaits us is, at times, very technical and we all delight in skids and "impossible" lines.

We hurl ourselves towards Wengen, a well-known ski resort, where we will stop for a short visit among the shops and the streets crowded with tourists. Our computers read 52 kilometres and a good 1500 metres of elevation gain: a demanding stage to tackle with a bit of training.

Lucerne sightseeing

We devote the 6th and final day to visiting Lucerne. An absolute must-see, to the north of the city, is the Dying Lion carved into the rock. Unmistakable and visible from everywhere is the cathedral, with its two very tall bell towers. The walk along the city walls is a genuine plunge into the past and, from the well-kept walkways, it is possible to admire the city from above. One of the towers houses a clock, around which the steep staircase winds up to the top. The picturesque old town, closed to car traffic, offers ideal conditions for strolling in complete peace. The covered wooden bridge is particularly characteristic.