A trek where the sun never sets

Tromso - Lofoten Islands

After being woken by the noise of the cleaning ladies' vacuum cleaner, I head to the dining room to enjoy a hearty buffet breakfast (65 NOK); we literally devour it.... to the astonishment of the waitresses! We spend the whole day sailing along the coast on the legendary mail ship. From the far north of Kirkenes to Bergen, the coastal ship has for over a century connected the thousand settlements of the endless Norwegian coast. An itinerary among fjords, islands, landscapes of touching solitude and signs of the civilisation of merchants, fishermen and sailors. Unfortunately the day is not nice, but the splendour of the landscape is spectacular. Every now and then we read, sleep, and then all together we plan the next few days with Patti (it's the cruise life...). Towards late afternoon the scenery is much more interesting through steep cliffs, fjords and the magnificent Trollsfjord.

By now it's a constant in and out of the cabins to take photos (together with Fabio and Patrizia). The towns where we stop are nothing special apart from a few characteristic little coloured houses (and fishing boats of course...). We arrive at 6.30 p.m. at Svolvear and walk to our campsite, which is 3 km away. We settle into two cosy bungalows. Marco discovers that he no longer has the tent he had attached to the outside of his backpack (is it possible it was stolen on the ship as he supposes???). It follows that he and Fabio will have to be hosted in other tents. We dine all together on porcini mushroom risotto, bread and cheese. Gigi tries to light the fireplace but we risk suffocating. I go to bed and am gently surprised by the fact that it never gets dark all night long.

Lofoten Islands

I take a quick shower, have breakfast and then all together we head towards the town. Since we will only stay in the Lofoten Islands for one day, we have decided to rent vehicles to visit them. While I wait for Patti to find the cars, I have a second breakfast in a pastry shop nearby, and savour the "Norwegian national dessert", as Pierangela and I have christened it (a very ordinary puff pastry with cream in the middle). We find a small 14-seat bus and a Mazda. We begin the journey heading south towards the town with the shortest name in the world: Å. The day is very beautiful, with glorious sunshine. Honestly, this alone would deserve a 14-day holiday: little beaches with Caribbean waters, unusual bridges connecting the islets, villages with the typical red fishermen's houses and pretty fishing boats.

Here people live off the stockfish fishing in spring, of which we are the main customers. At Å we visit the stockfish museum (interesting), where our guide, who speaks good Italian, tells us the legend of the "Cod King": he is likeable and, to me, also a "great sly one"... We visit the touristy and predictable reconstruction of a fishing village. We eat a packed lunch: bread, cheese, cold cuts, yoghurt (including the typical one with white blackberries). In mid-afternoon we set off again to return to base. Along the way we stop in a village more interesting than the previous one; we climb a small hill, take a few photos (including stockfish drying in the sun) and look at the landscape. Further on we stop again on a beautiful beach at dusk, where some dip their feet in the cold water (brave souls).

A group photo and then we set off again, detouring towards the village of Nussfjord (elected best village in Norway) and it is indeed very suggestive. We arrive a little tired and in the evening we make ourselves a nice plate of pasta all together.

Abisko Turiststation - Free camping area end of park (17 km - 4.30h)

The night passes peacefully (the tent holds up) although I wake up several times: it's raining and damp. I take a nice shower, also because I don't know when I'll have the next chance to do so. We weigh the backpacks and on average they come to 15-17 kg, with a maximum of 23 kg (Andrea and his food supplies). They will get lighter during the trek. Departure at 8.00 under an annoying drizzle. After about 500 m we reach the wooden arch at the entrance to the path and we all take the ritual group photo. The way is easy and runs along the right bank of the Abiskojåkka river, heading into a birch wood. Walking through the wood, which I find monotonous, mushrooms and ferns appear to me. Every now and then I change my clothing depending on whether it rains or not.

After 1 hour of walking I cross a suspension bridge and immediately afterwards I find a clearing with a small open shelter with a fireplace. There are marshy areas, where however convenient wooden walkways have been installed to walk on. Mosquitoes!!! I cover myself with Autan Extreme, which seems to work. I cross a second suspension bridge held with steel cables. After 2 hours of walking I reach the beginning of Lake Abiskojávri. We stop for about half an hour on a mattress of soft mosses and lichens and I eat some edible red raspberries. I set off with Massimo, Andrea and Patti and after walking along the long lake for about 1.30 hours we reach the Abiskojaure refuge (altitude 490 m); even though the others have preceded us by quite some time.

Anyway, we don't have to race, so I take my time to rest and study the right angles to take splendid photographs! We eat under a warm sun and rest, lying on the grass. We set off again at 2.30 p.m. to look for an area where we can set up camp. We walk another 3 km or so and at the end of the Abisko park we find a clearing to pitch the tents (flagged by the group leader of the previous trip, whose guidance has always given us valuable suggestions: thanks Maria Rosa Bacci Conti). I put my tent in the wood, downwind, near the stream even though there are more mosquitoes. I realise anyway that the whole area is invaded by these ravenous little creatures and I can't stay still. I decide to take a walk together with the others (to avoid the mosquitoes); we cross a bridge and reach an open valley where on the right there is the Kieron shelter (elevation gain 200 m).

The bravest ones: Anna Claudia, Bruno, Pierangela, Gigi, Andrea and Marita, climb Monte Gárddenvárri. Once back at camp I prepare a mushroom risotto with my new stove (it works well!!!). After eating we light the fire. All in a circle we joke and talk until 9.15 p.m. Then, physically tired and stressed by the mosquitoes, we go to sleep.

Free camping area end of park - Alesjaure Hut (18 km - 5h)

The night passes well even though it rained. After breakfast we set off at 8.00. The sky is covered with grey clouds. The landscape changes as I go along. I encounter lakes, flowers, glaciers. I walk uphill for about 2 hours, reaching a broad plateau dotted with small lakes, altitude 800 m. I take many photos with Patti, who is ahead of me. Once we reach a certain point we turn right to see a Lapp settlement used for grazing, empty (it's not the season for reindeer). The surrounding landscape is suggestive. The wind blows steadily. The way runs along, with a continuous up and down, first past some small lakes and then four lakes in sequence: Ahpparijávri, Miesakjávri, Rådujávri, Alisjávri. After another hour of walking I find a shelter. On the last stretch I am a little tired: I stop often. The refuge seems never to arrive even though I can see it on the horizon.

After another 2 hours of walking I finally reach the Alesjaure refuge (altitude 775 m). Patrizia kindly waited for me while during the stops I unloaded the backpack from my shoulders and ate something. Obviously the others have already arrived. The landscape below us is very beautiful: a spectacular lake with some glaciers in the background. I can't imagine all this in winter when it will be covered by a thick blanket of snow. The refuge is well equipped. We pitch the tents near the lake (curse it, there are so many mosquitoes!). Later we decide to take a hike to the Lapp camp located on the opposite shore of the lake. As we walk we see a beautiful rainbow (I have never seen so many rainbows in my life...). Half an hour of walking, but unfortunately this one is deserted too. It rains more insistently and we head back quickly after taking a few photos (nothing interesting).

When we return to the refuge I ask for clarification as to why all the settlements are deserted and they explain to me that the village is inhabited only in the months of June-July, when the Lapps gather the reindeer. By now true Lapps who live in these places in winter are truly rare. They too have poured into the cities. We wash in the little lake (including the shaving operation) and spend a nice evening in the refuge eating sausages and "synthetic" mashed potatoes at 45 SEK!!! Patti is not convinced about dipping into the common fund for such an expense, but it is an important evening for keeping the group's morale high. Outside it's pouring rain! We go to sleep (the tent incredibly holds up).

Alesjaure Hut - Tjäktja Hut (13 km - 3.3h)

I wake up early to do my business (1st time in these days) and I have to hurry up to escape the mosquito attacks. The weather is changeable with low clouds; at 5:00 it stopped raining. We leave at 9:00. The trail is made of stone steps on a continuous up and down. I cross a glacial valley with beautiful little lakes and I often walk on wooden walkways (the gaiters prove very useful for protecting my pants from the mud). Here I also spot the first reindeer... finally! I cross a suspension bridge and after 3 hours of walking I come across an emergency shelter on the left; it's closed with a padlock. The Tjäktja hut (elevation 1,000 m) can be seen in the distance. To take some photos of the waterfalls I ford the swollen stream and end up with my feet in it (congratulations to the boots that don't let water in).

While we pitch the tents under a beautiful sun, a rainbow suddenly appears over the valley (will bad weather return???). I take the opportunity to wash in the stream and shampoo my hair. Unfortunately, shortly after, it starts raining again. The tent starts leaking. After having dinner in the hut's communal kitchen (risotto and cheese), we go back outside in the rain. Two people sleep inside. I'm hosted by Bruno and Andrea, but "diving" in I realize the tent is flooded and so I run over to Claudio and Marco (I'm a bit wet). It rains all night, but thank goodness I sleep dry.

Tjäktja Hut - Kuoperjåkka Bivouac (18 km - 4.3h)

Wake-up at 7:00. Good breakfast in the hut and then we strike camp. The weather is changeable with low clouds; at 5:00 it stopped raining (T=10°C). We leave at 8:00 towards the Tjäktja pass. First I cross terrain covered with mosses and lichens, and further on a rocky field. After about 1 hour of walking I reach the legendary pass at 1,150 m. At the top there's a small snowfield and luckily we find an emergency shelter where we can rest a bit. Unfortunately it starts raining again. The shelter has 4 beds with a small wood stove. We stop for about 1 hour, hoping the rain will stop. Nothing doing, I put on my Gore-Tex® jacket and K-Way pants. We set off again in a heavy downpour. From this point the trail descends steeply for about 300 m, then continues with continuous ups and downs on wooden walkways and crosses a long rocky field.

They offer me an umbrella but I prefer to continue like this. The area is a bog and we also have to ford several streams. It's pouring rain and I have a strong feeling of dampness (but the jacket holds). We hear a dull rumble and see a landslide 1 km away. From under my hood I see a large herd of reindeer on the right but it's a bit difficult to take photos in the rain. I keep going very well even though at the back (rain or no rain...). I see another group of reindeer (about 50-60) on the other side of the stream. I also fall on the wet rocky field and do the "turtle" with my legs in the air, but I don't hurt myself. I spot the first hut of the stage. I go into the communal kitchen and together with the others we light the stove to dry our clothes and shoes. Luckily only my cotton pants are wet from sweat. My feet and the rest of my body are dry.

Congratulations to the Aesse and S.Marco company. Someone finds the pasta and can't resist the temptation of a good plate of spaghetti. Although the weather is awful, it must be said that morale is high. Except for Andrea who is regretting having chosen to do a trek. The usual visit to the "typical" hut latrines decorated with photos and dried flowers. After a couple of hours we set off again in thick rain. I walk about 7 km and arrive at the Kuoperjåkka shelter, elevation 750 m; 1.3 hours of walking. Finally it stops raining. Some pitch camp on a dry meadow near the river. The shelter is cozy and after a good clean-up, I decide with 6 other companions (Marita, Pierangela, Silvia, Massimo, Marco and Andrea) to sleep inside. We light the stove (well done Gigi, expert wood cutter...) and dry our clothes. We light the stoves and cook creams and various soups all together.

All 16 of us are there sitting (except the Sardinians...) and we spend a pleasant evening. I tell jokes (I usually never tell them - and I'm not drunk...). For the entire duration of the vacation they'll ask me to tell the one about the guy who learns English with a £15,000 radio, etc., etc. It will be the symbolic joke of the Trek! It's incredible how in situations of discomfort, the group bonds more and morale strengthens. This was the best evening of the trek. Before going to bed I go to wash in the stream and slip on a stone. I give myself a scrape on my arm and armpit. I'm immediately medicated by Patti when I return to the shelter, but the evening continues and the show goes on... We go to bed at 0:30 (late hours...) after singing Battisti, Guccini, De Gregori, Venditti, etc. I sleep well even though it's hot: I'm near the stove in short sleeves.

Three people snore like bears and lynxes (Marita, Pierangela and Massimo from TO). Those sleeping outside in tents are in the rain, it's very cold (I don't envy them...).

Kuoperjåkka Bivouac - Kebnekaise Hut (16 km - 6h)

Early in the morning Bruno enters the shelter saying it's raining, it's not cold and he's seen reindeer up close, but I'm not very interested (Bruno is always obsessed with meteorology and temperature). Then Gigi enters with another emblematic phrase: "low clouds, changeable weather, practically nice weather...". And also: "Apart from cold, rain, and humidity, everything's fine!". After a good breakfast, I shave at the stream (Pierangela washes completely, what a physique!!!). We leave after a good clean-up of the shelter: I'm sorry, I'd gotten attached to this place! I proceed calmly with Patrizia, every now and then we rest and take some photos. There's no point arriving early at the hut and then not knowing what to do. Here you don't need a watch. The passing of time is marked only by the sun and physiological needs.

After about 3 km we reach the junction for the Singi hut; 45 minutes of walking, elevation 780 m. Here you turn left crossing a long reindeer fence. The trail climbs gently for 200 m. After 45 minutes we're at 980 m. The day turns decidedly nice, a warm sun comes out, though with a strong wind. From this point the way starts descending until reaching a magnificent glacial valley rich in bogs, little lakes, and surrounded by spectacular mountains with glaciers at the top that feed beautiful waterfalls (elevation 780 m). Near a pretty little lake I take a series of photos, also of my favorite flower, similar to cotton, which grows near the bogs (Common Cotton Grass). I decide with Patti to eat a packed lunch along the way (biscuits, grana cheese, chocolate and apple - it feels like a holiday!).

For the entire day I'm accompanied only by the sound of the wind and the roar of water falling from the imposing waterfalls. This for me is one of those mystical and unforgettable days that you'll remember for a lifetime. We manage to see a reindeer very close up; it's a truly real animal. We meet the first tourists and day-trippers (and unfortunately also the noise of the first cell phones...). We're approaching the most famous hut in Sweden, base camp of the highest mountain: the Kebnekaise (2,100 m). We arrive at 14:45. There's always a nice sun, wind, and also a nice chill. I pitch the tent with some difficulty (due to the wind) and start to be a bit worried about the cold there'll be tonight. We all wash as a group in the nearby little lake (men's area and women's area). We go to drink something hot at the bar.

Fabio and Anna Claudia mysteriously disappear, until we see them coming back down from the mountain overlooking the hut. They went to share the sunset together... how romantic!!! After laboriously cooking an asparagus cream, we decide to take a short hike on the mountain behind the hut (10 min); the view is stunning. Marco is in a mystical phase and decides to stay up there alone for a few more minutes. We go down and drink a cool beer and then all off to sleep. It's cold and windy. After 3:00, I regularly wake up every half hour (it's always light). I'm curled up in fetal position and can't wait for 6:00 to come. I'm kicking myself for not having accepted Patti and Anna Claudia's offer to sleep in their tent. I would have been warm and in good company... Finally at 5:00 the wind dies down and so I manage to fall asleep.

Kebnekaise Hut - Nikkaluokta - Kiruna(19km-2.15h+0.20h+1.45h)

At 6:30 I wake up, immediately take down the tent and go wash while waiting for the buffet to open for breakfast. I have to reward myself for the awful night I spent. Breakfast is fantastic (60 SEK): I feel like a king! The weather is nice. I'm ready for another day. We begin walking at a good pace through birches and the usual monotonous landscape (myriads of mosquitoes chase us!). Patti, who I think is afraid of missing the ferry, hurries us a bit. We reach the boat's docking pier, where we already find many people waiting. The ferry ride is relaxing (about half an hour) and apart from the Kebnekaise wrapped in clouds there's nothing else particularly noteworthy. When we disembark we decide to stop for lunch at Lap Dånalds and enjoy a renburger, a reindeer hamburger (not bad, must be the hunger!). At 13:00 we set off slowly towards our final destination: Nikkaluokta, 5.6 km away.

The trail is easy, but boggy. I proceed calmly through a birch forest and arrive at the hut at 14:30. I glimpse the asphalt road and the first cars: we've finished the trekking and returned to sad "civilization". What a bitter feeling... we stop at the hut waiting for the bus to Kiruna (at 16:30). I eat something, various purchases and postcards. I write my little thought in Anna Claudia's diary: I'm inspired and I've gathered various material. On the bus I tell another series of jokes (some Lega [Northern League] ones and others of the horrid kind) also because the landscape offers nothing new. We arrive in Kiruna at 17:40 and decide to sleep in the cabins, given the rather negligible price difference. Andrea throws a fit because he wants to sleep in the hostel (he's been wanting to for days), but in the end he stays with us.

We go into town to buy food for dinner: spaghetti carbonara, cheese, cold cuts, bread, dessert, Snow White's apple, beer and always a good tea. It doesn't even seem real. Then in a cozy bar nearby we drink a hot chocolate. Finally I can sleep in a real bed.

Honnisvåg - Nordkapp - Honnisvåg

In the morning I go for a walk. I go back down the road towards Honningsvåg for about 3 km, I see a fishermen's islet. I take a series of color and b/w photos and cross the little bridge connecting the islet to the mainland. After a few moments "Captain Hook" comes towards me: a man with a beard and wool cap who has an actual hook in place of his right hand. He tells me it's private property. I promptly leave. I return to camp and get ready to take the bus to North Cape. We leave our backpacks in a bungalow, where we'll pick them up in the evening. The bus arrives punctually at 12:30. After various climbs and tight bends we disembark on the infamous rock. What a disappointment. The place is exploited for tourism: there's a shop, restaurant, bar, rooms, self-service, etc. It seems like one of our classic shopping centers. The day is nice, but an icy wind blows. I warm up with a coffee.

Then I finally buy my sweater (identical to Fabio's) with the ladies' supervision and advice. We go out again to stroll along the surrounding cliffs. We go back up the road where we encounter several groups of reindeer (among which there's always a white one - how strange...). We really had to come here to see so many reindeer up close..... The light is ideal for photographs (19:00) and I take the opportunity for a few portraits. Green meadows covered with moss, lichens and bogs with white flowers: the sky is a clear blue. Along the road still reindeer. Gigi, getting down on all fours, manages to get within a few meters of the herd (well done! - he looks like Kevin Costner in "Dances with Wolves"). Back at the shopping center we decide to go to the cinema. Every half hour they screen a film about North Cape and surroundings with a very evocative soundtrack on three Imax screens.

I was so struck by the screening that I watched it a second time. At 22:00 we rush outside: there's the legendary sunset over the sea. The evening is crystal clear.... What luck!!! A great moment of emotion. A myriad of tourists are stationed with cameras and tripods to capture the various phases of the sunset. At 23:00 the sun sets definitively. A little later we take the bus back to Honningsvåg. Near the campsite Silvia wakes me saying we have to get off to pick up our backpacks: it's a rude awakening. In a minute we're at the bungalow (better than the Marines or Paratroopers), but returning to the road the bus is gone. Moments of panic since everyone had left something on the bus, except me. Some want to walk, some hitchhike..., Patti calls the port.... (she's very angry - I've only seen her like that one other time!).

We're starting to walk (8 km.....) when shortly after the bus reappears coming the other way. Some Italian kids who were traveling on the bus forced the driver to come back. So everything worked out. At the terminus we promptly unload all the backpacks, but right after we have to load them back on: this isn't the right pier where the legendary Hurtigruten mail ship would dock in the morning. The adventure continues, but we still have the strength to joke about it. After arriving at the bus depot we walk towards the quay. It's 0:30. We prepare to spend the night on the pier with our sleeping bags. Unfortunately the waiting room is small and already occupied by other tourists. We spend an hour in the nearby pub drinking a beer. It's Friday night and the natives are already drunk. After all, there's not much to do here.

Maybe we're risking more here than in the whole trek: a girl makes eyes at Marco, but we see she's with a fisherman (presumably) as big as a wardrobe.... Better to retreat and leave. Back at the pier I drink a hot coffee prepared on the spot by Andrea and Bruno. Given the freezing temperature, close to 0°C, I slip away and position myself in the waiting room corridor (near the bathrooms) where there are 3 Germans and 2 Italians. Since my sleeping bag isn't very reliable I prefer to trust in four walls and a roof. I spend a good night thinking of those outside.

Back home

Kisses and hugs to our unforgettable group: Alfredo, Sondrio Andrea, Cuneo Anna Claudia, Rome Antonello and Beniamina, Cagliari Bruno, Germagnano (TO) Claudio, Sale Marasino (BS) Egidio and Rossana, Mairano (BS) Fabio, Modena Marco, Bologna Marita, Biella Massimo, Milan Massimo, Turin Pierangela, Vicenza Silvia, Florence