All of Spain!

Arrival in Madrid

We arrive in Madrid in the evening, on an Air Europa flight, and pick up the car we booked from Italy. The hotel reserved through booking is on a side street off the Gran Via; leaving the car is the first adventure. Parking in the centre is practically impossible, so we resign ourselves to the multi-storey car park behind the hotel.. very expensive! We stayed at the Hostal Ballesta, a few metres from the Gran Via. We trusted the booking reviews and we weren't wrong. It's very new, clean, with spacious and well-kept rooms, kind and helpful staff, free wifi even in the room and of course a great price! The only flaw is the "ladies" who animate the pavements nearby... but they're more folkloric than bothersome!

MADRID and El Escorial

We get up early and decide straight away to head to the surroundings of Madrid to visit El Escorial and the Valle de Los Caidos. Unfortunately the latter was under restoration, so only San Lorenzo de L'Escorial. The little town is nice and dominated by the Monastery, whose visit is definitely worth it. We return to Madrid before 11 and dedicate all the rest of the day to visiting the city. First we use the car to get an overview of the city, driving along its main arteries, and then we ditch it to continue on foot. We walk along part of the Gran Via, go into the side streets until we reach the Monasterio de Las Descalzas Reales, the Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, Calle Mayor as far as the Royal Palace and the Almudena. We continue with the visit to the gardens, Plaza de Oriente and Cibeles. Even though the day is overcast, the heat and humidity make themselves felt.

Exhausted, we treat ourselves to an aperitif near the Gran Via or rather, Vamos a Tapear. The aperitif soon turns out to be more substantial than dinner, so we combine the two. Too tired, we give up on Madrid's nightlife, and settle for going back to the hotel and recharging for tomorrow. Madrid is undoubtedly a lively city, full of life, of venues, and the Madrilenians are really friendly and yet.. it didn't particularly enthuse me. The Prado and Gran Via areas are beautiful, Plaza Mayor is undoubtedly worth seeing but I didn't find the rest up to the standard of other European capitals.

Towards Andalusia

We set off early heading for Cordoba. We decide to avoid all the motorways, not to save on tolls, but to cross the beautiful territory of Castile-La Mancha and try to encounter the Spain of a bygone era. First stop at Toledo, after only 80 km. We stop for a couple of hours, go into its alleys, visit the cathedral and reach the alcazar. The cathedral is truly superb, and alone it's worth the stop. We don't miss a visit to the little shops selling blades and knives, the first souvenirs of the holiday. Then we set off again among endless plateaus, rows of vines and olive trees that soon give way to barren hills and lost villages. Every now and then we spot a crumbling windmill to remind us that we are on the trail of Don Quixote. We don't regret having preferred the old state roads, and we drive almost the whole way alone.

Once we enter Andalusia, Cordoba is quite close; in the last kilometres the car thermometer seems to go crazy and quickly reaches 47°!!! After about 400 km, we arrive at our destination around 15:30. The city is obviously deserted; we soon understand the meaning of the "Siesta" and we too shut ourselves in the hotel, carefully chosen with a pool! Here we stayed at the Hesperia Cordoba, EXCELLENT. It's a 4-star with every comfort, large rooms tastefully furnished but above all a marvellous view of the mezquita and the Roman bridge. After a refreshing bath and a bit of rest we defy the great heat and go out to visit the town. It's 19:00, but it's still 42°. Anyway, the atmosphere is wonderful. We cross the bridge over the Guadalquivir accompanied only by the cicadas, and once on the other side it feels like being in another era.

We postpone the visit to the mezquita to tomorrow, since it's already late, and we just admire its outer walls. Cordoba is beautiful. The streets of the juderia, the colours, the shady patios, the green of the citrus trees, the smells... you feel great even with the oppressive heat. Here we begin to get to know the Andalusian spirit, and between one street and a little square we too begin to laze about, between a cerveza and a chat that everyone is willing to have. A typical dinner based on salmorejo and oxtail, and back to the hotel, after more night-time wandering.

Wonders of Andalusia

We go out early and in the morning cool we cross the Roman bridge again, admire the Torre de la Calahora and the view over the Guadalquivir and arrive at the entrance of the mezquita. We discover that entry from 8:00 to 10:00 is free, since there's practically no one there and inside there's the morning mass. The garden is an oasis of coolness, adorned with fountains and lots of citrus trees. But it's inside that you're really left open-mouthed: the space is truly large, and you're amazed by the architecture and the colours. It's strange to admire just a few metres away the splendour of the mihrab and the crucifix on the altar. Beautiful, truly beautiful. After breakfast we go to see the Medina Azahara, which you can very well do without. We get back in the car and after about 140 km we arrive in Seville.

It's almost midday but before going to the hotel we stop at the Torre del Oro and decide to visit the Real Maestranza arena. Although there's a bullfight in the evening, I don't have the courage to buy tickets, so we prefer to enter now, in the silence, and enjoy another spectacle. They say it's the most beautiful in Spain, and indeed it's a fine sight. We spend a large part of the afternoon in the hotel's pool park, enjoying a bit of relaxation. Here we stay at the Silken Al-Andalus, on the elegant Avenida de las Palmeras, which although a bit far from the centre (4 km) we find perfect. With the usual 42°, we go out in the evening, but it no longer weighs on us. We go to Plaza del Triunfo, visit the Cathedral, the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the Maria Luisa Park and Plaza de Espana, and go to dinner in the Arenal.

Around the Cathedral dominated by the Giralda and in the Barrio de Santa Cruz you breathe the same atmosphere as Cordoba, an atmosphere that takes you back in time and is steeped in Arab and Oriental influence. Here too the little squares of the barrio are oases of coolness and rest. Don't miss Plaza Santa Cruz. Plaza de Espana is unique. The Arenal is full of venues and life. Visit the riverside in the evening. You fall in love with Seville.

Sevilla and onwards south

We use the morning to complete our tour of Sevilla. First, a visit to the Reales Alcazares, a jewel of Moorish architecture. All the rooms and the cool, verdant patios captivate you with their richness and beauty. We then go to the Barrio de la Macarena, where we have breakfast and visit the church that houses the virgin so dear to the Sevillians. We set off again towards Jerez de la Frontera, where we arrive after about a hundred kilometres. Here we stayed at Los Andalos Jerez & Spa, definitely nice and clean, but with truly obnoxious staff, a rarity for Spaniards. After the usual siesta we went to Arcos de La Frontera, the first of the pueblos blancos. The stifling heat didn't allow us to explore it far and wide, but it was enough to breathe in, here too, a certain something of the past that has remained intact. The view from below is unmissable.

Back in Jerez, we wandered around the centre, which is nice, but nothing compared to the rest of Andalusia.

Finally the Sea!

This morning we finally head towards the sea, and after less than an hour we're in Cadiz. A port city, largely modern and excessively crowded with tourists. We take a look around and stop only to visit the cathedral and its surroundings. The seafront is a pleasant walk where we have breakfast, finally freed from the great heat of the interior! For the first swim of the holiday we had planned Conil de La Frontera beach, where we arrive shortly after. The beach is immense, very beautiful and stretches out below the town creating a postcard-perfect scene! We treat ourselves to half a day at the sea, before continuing towards Tarifa. Along the road we stop at Vejer de La Frontera, another small Andalusian town that really deserves a stop. Personally I found it more beautiful than Arcos, perhaps because of the third-air that makes the colours even more blinding.

We arrive in Tarifa, where we immediately flee from the crowded and unfortunately poorly maintained beach. So we settle into the hotel and go to admire the sunset from the viewpoint over the Strait of Gibraltar, then continue the evening in Tarifa. The African coasts are so close, and wandering through its little streets makes you feel as if you already have one foot in Morocco.

Towards Marbella

This morning we drive along the Atlantic coast, and after a walk in Gibraltar, we head to Marbella. Actually the hotel we had booked was 16 km from the coast, near the small hamlet of Istan. The Los Jarales Rural Hotel was a nice surprise: comfortable rooms, with high beamed ceilings, a breathtaking view and a quiet that after days on the road is truly a tonic. The available pool is small, but we discover we are the only guests and so we decide to spend the day here resting and recharging our batteries. Only in the evening do we go down to Puerto Banus and Marbella. The biggest disappointment of the holiday. Undoubtedly the setting of villas, golf courses, modernity and glitz makes Puerto Banus the Porto Cervo of Spain. The little port is a parade of luxury cars and fabulous yachts, where the cost of living is triple that of everywhere else, but pleasant to look at nonetheless.

But Marbella is truly incomprehensible. Just obscene concrete. We are glad we only devoted a few hours to it.

GRANADA

We leave early and by 11 we are already in Granada. Here we stay at the Hotel Camino de Granada, a bit outside the centre but the property is new and the garden with the pool is very well kept. We take the lunch hour to enjoy the sun and the pool but here we soon defy the heat and by 15:00 we are out. We leave the car at the edge of the centre and walk around the Gran Via de Colon, visiting the cathedral. We stop to pick up the Alhambra tickets bought from Italy and begin the climb to the fortress, along the shady and steep cuesta de Gomerez! It is important to stress that you need to buy tickets in advance, since they are limited in number and you risk not being able to get in. You even need to book the visiting time for the Nazaries Palace along with the tickets.

There are many sites selling tickets, but the only one with official prices is that of the Alhambra trust; you pay by card and then you just need to pick up the tickets from the CAIXA ATMs, selecting the pick up tickets option. Back to the Alhambra. It is impossible to describe the Alhambra, because everything is permeated with a special and magical atmosphere. The views over the Albaicin and the Sierra Nevada stay in your heart and even more so the rooms and courtyards of the Nazaries Palace. WONDERFUL. You would want to never leave and you try to imagine that the tourists disappear and to go back in time to relive the splendour that once was.. Once you have visited the Alhambra, immersing yourself in reading the "Tales of the Alhambra" can prolong that fairy-tale feeling that envelops the whole place and much of Andalusia.

The whole afternoon passes here, and only in the evening do we reach the Albaicin to lose ourselves in its streets and where you can stay for hours admiring the view of the fortress from the mirador of San Nicolas, with the sound of guitars and castanets in the background with which the gypsies accompany improvised flamenco. We would never want to leave but another day is over, we wouldn't even want to leave Granada...we regret not having more time for this city. So we walk down the Albaicin hill and travel the whole road that runs alongside the Darro giving a final farewell to Granada.

Day on the road

Today our destination is Barcelona. About 900 km separate us from the goal, so for the first time we use the Spanish motorways. Very expensive! We do not want to miss a stop in Valencia, where we arrive in the early afternoon. Having really little time, we decide to go straight to the city of arts and sciences, the symbol of the city. The contrast is strong between the grandiose works of engineering and architecture that are here and those that have accompanied us until yesterday... wonders of the past and of the present... that make Spain that beautiful country which truly lacks nothing. After a quick tour of the city, we continue our march and arrive in Barcelona around 17:30, and we take a little well-deserved rest. Here we stayed at the Hotel Ronda Lesseps, near Park Güell. Excellent value for money, although one must add the rip-off for parking the car.

We take advantage of the last evening with the car and go first to visit the Sagrada Familia and then to enjoy a good paella at the Barceloneta. We devote the after-dinner to Montjuïc, where we remain fascinated by the light and sound show of the "magic fountain." It was my second time in the Catalan city, and the impression of life, joy, continuous celebration assails me for the second time, even though I found the city profoundly changed and it now appears to me efficient, cutting-edge and on a par with the most important European and international capitals.

Barcelona

A whole day dedicated to the Catalan capital. Early in the morning we go to leave the car at the central station and begin our tour from passeig de Gracia, with a visit to the PEDRERA and casa BATLO'. First encounter with the genius Gaudì. We continue to Plaza de Catalunya, where we begin the descent along the Ramblas. There's a river of people strolling and stopping to admire the many street artists crowding the avenue. We stop at the Boqueria market, a triumph of colors and flavors. We continue descending, zigzagging through the neighborhoods flanking the Ramblas. We go to visit the cathedral venturing into the narrow alleys of the Gothic quarter. We get as far as the monument to Columbus, where we take the metro heading to Parc Guell. In my opinion it's here that the genius Gaudì gave his best.

The park is simply fantastic, for its buildings, the greenery and the breathtaking 360-degree panoramas over the city of Barcelona. Just the time to rest in front of a cold cerveza, and we go back to the hotel to pick up our luggage heading for the port..here we take care of the formalities for boarding. A long night awaits us sailing towards Majorca.