Granada is the Alhambra. The Alhambra is Granada.
But it is at the foot of the legendary fortress that the true soul of the city is found.
The most fascinating in all of Andalusia, the liveliest, the most complete from a cultural point of view, one to which you cannot remain indifferent. A walk through its historic center is enough to dive into the past and discover the Arab, Christian, traditional, folkloric, gypsy influences.
So many ingredients carefully mixed for a perfect cocktail, a city that radically changes face every time you turn the corner of one of its streets.
Europe, Africa, the Middle East, often you can hardly tell which continent you are on.
And it is certainly its contrasts that make it unique.
Acerra del Darro, the shopping street characterized by its modernity, its luxury shops, shopping centers, long shaded pedestrian avenues.
From here the more intimate little streets lead to the true heart of Granada, passing through squares animated by the many little restaurants where you can have a casual dinner for 8-10 euros, such as Plaza Bib Rambla and Plaza Trinidad.
The center is dominated by the immense Cathedral and by the adjacent Royal Chapel, where some of the historic monarchs of Spain are buried.
But then, after breathing the Gothic-Renaissance air of the Cathedral, just a few meters are enough to dive into a completely different world: this is the Alcaicería, a reconstruction of the ancient Arab silk market, one of the most unusual streets, with its typical and meticulously kept little souvenir shops, wrought-iron lanterns, Moorish arches, gypsy women trying to read the palms of passersby using ingenious little tricks.
Just a beginning of what the true Arab quarter of the city, a few hundred meters away, has in store: the Albaicin. The spectacular location, the white houses climbing up the hill offering incomparable views of the city, the cobbled little streets, courtyards, gardens, fountains, small squares. You start from the most typical and touristy area, Caldereria Vieja, where a stop in one of the many tea houses is a must, savoring one of the hundred types of tea available. They are small places in Arab style, soft light, romantic and cozy.
The climb takes your breath away, especially on a scorching August afternoon, but reaching the Mirador San Nicolas is a must: a magnificent view of the Alhambra hill, and at its feet the whole city.
The descent along the Carrera del Darro is equally striking, it follows the course of the river passing by the Arab baths of El Banuelo, among the best preserved in Spain.
Mysterious, on the other hand, is the right adjective to describe another quarter: the Sacromonte, gypsy land, where many of its inhabitants live in cave-houses in which it is not rare to attend some flamenco show, although by now it is performed exclusively in tourist form.
In Andalusia you dine late, and perhaps this is also why the famous "tapas" come to the rescue, the typical snacks to fill your stomach and delight your palate. Among the vast choice, be sure to try those with el jamon serrano, the typical ham from the Sierra Nevada which is less than 50 km away.
We wander far and wide, but our gaze always ends up up there, drawn by the austere presence of the Alhambra, the most important Arab palace-fortress in Europe.
All that remains is to wait for the fresher morning air to begin the climb leading to its entrance and be able to admire the interior with the tranquility of the first opening hour (alternatively you can use the bus that departs from Plaza Nueva).
The Palacio de los Nazaries takes your breath away with its beauty, a succession of finely decorated rooms, overlooking magnificent patios where the movements of the water enhance the atmosphere. Visiting it means daydreaming and reliving the glorious times and the splendor of the Arab-Spanish Middle Ages. A place where time has stopped!
Opposite, the Alcazaba fortress offers from the top of the Torre de la Vela an incredible view of the whole city, starting from the white Albaicin quarter, to the nearby Sacromonte, all the way to modern Granada.
And to finish, the tranquility of the Generalife, the gardens surrounding the summer residence, a riot of pools, fountains and flowers where water flows ingeniously becoming an art.
Granada is to be experienced at all hours of the day: romantic and hectic later on, calm, cool and reserved early in the morning. And to enjoy both of its aspects, all that remains is to sacrifice hours of sleep!
0 reader comments