The decision to travel to Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands matured over the course of the year... we wanted to go to a seaside place that wasn't particularly overrun, invaded by tourists, and that would let us combine a lovely beach holiday with some cultural itinerary. The decision fell on the Canary Islands and, after ruling out for the reasons given the better-known Tenerife and Las Palmas, we opted for Fuerteventura. We immediately realised that organising a do-it-yourself trip to the Canary Islands and, above all, for the month of August, is not exactly very easy. In fact the flights from Italy to Puerto del Rosario (the island's only airport) are not very cheap... the only flight we found at reasonable prices was offered by Air Berlin with a stopover in Berlin. The price was around 500 euros.
But the biggest surprise is the great difficulty of booking a hotel at moderate prices via the internet. Almost all of them offer no booking option and those that do are full (since April!). We read, on this subject, travellers saying that you had to go to Fuerteventura (and to the Canaries in general) the first time with a tour operator and then look for cheap accommodation on the spot for any later visits to the island. And so we did... albeit reluctantly and with a heavy heart (we are hardened do-it-yourself tourists!) we decided to go to a travel agency in Rome and see what the market offered for Fuerteventura. Among all the offers the clearly most convincing one was Teorema Tour: a package with flight and 8-day stay in an all-inclusive resort came to around 790 euros. We also decided to hire a car through the tour operator as well, so we could get around the island as best we could.
But as you often read (or often see on Mi Manda Raitre) the surprise reached us too!!! On 18 August (that is, only 5 days before departure for Puerto del Rosario) the agency receives a communication from Teorema Tour stating that ("for causes beyond our control"!) the resort we had chosen was not yet "completed"!!! So they offer us an alternative accommodation. Here the question arises of how justified these changes of destination are, especially so few days before departure. Is it possible, I say possible, that only 5 days before departure they realise the resort hasn't been completed yet? Who knows!! Anyway they place us at the Barcelò Jandìa Playa, 140 km south of our choice, which had been the Aloe Club in Corralejo. We argue for three days to get the free car extension for the whole week and, thanks to our agency, we manage it. At least in this we did well.
A little disappointed and above all worried about what might happen with Teorema on the spot, we set off on the morning of 23 August at 4 am!!! We arrive at the airport and, after very long queues, collect the documents and check in. We're on holiday, right? So let's smile and board the Eurofly flight bound for Puerto del Rosario! At around 12 (after 4 hours of perfect flight) we touch down and get our first surprise... the weather!!! Terrible!!! But wasn't it an island wrapped in sun and warm Saharan winds? Hmm... I must say it was not only cloudy but also quite cool (about 24°C). Anyway we must be hopeful: the weather, as we know, especially on an island, changes suddenly, so we're sure a beautiful day will come out! At the Teorema desk at the airport there's chaos... people in a disorderly queue ask for information about the coach that is to take them to their destination...
many of the usual sly sorts trying to jump the queue... tension through the roof! But weren't we all on holiday? Hmm...
Anyway, after a few shoves and raised voices, we reach our coach, which sets off for our destination. Transfer time: about 80 minutes... darn, because Corralejo was much closer. Never mind, it'll still be a nice place! During this transfer we realise that the roads are not very good... many are not paved and those that are have a rather narrow roadway. The further south you go towards Morro Jable, the worse it gets.
On the other hand there is a landscape that, despite the less-than-optimal weather, is magnificent... it leaves you speechless... there isn't a tree or plant with a trunk taller than 20 cm... the only large plants are the palms... everything is very arid... in some stretches you get the feeling of being on the moon or on Mars, given the colour of the soil, which in certain places tends toward red! Beautiful, truly beyond words!
As we get closer to our final destination, ever more pleasant, enchanting and wild landscapes open up... we approach the part called Costa Calma and there begins the most beautiful beach (according to everyone!) of the island of Fuerteventura... over 25 km of dazzling white beach lapped by a splendid turquoise-blue sea... It's the stretch running from Costa Calma to Morro Jable. It includes the beaches of Playa de Sotavento de Jandìa, Playa de Buitondo and Playa del Matorral. Beyond words, truly very beautiful. They are very wide beaches (even 200 m in places) and finding a sun umbrella next to yours is part of a choice made on purpose!
The resort immediately seems unsettling and beautiful at the same time: it's a town perched on a hill facing the Playa del Matorral. A town in the sense that the resort is enormous, made up of over 600 (!) rooms, 6 bars, 5 pools, a theatre, a disco and so on. This is the unsettling part, because you expect the little hotel of a small seaside town and instead there's a resort hosting half the population of a small Tuscan town! But in the end whoever has been (or will go) to Fuerteventura will realise that most of the hotels are exactly this size, so you have to put a brave face on it. I must say the comforts are total... so you certainly can't complain... the beach is enchanting and the rooms are very nice too.
A note is deserved by the matter of beaches: in Fuerteventura, as in all of Spain, the beaches are all public land, so there is no permission from the authorities to build directly on the beaches. This is very positive (even if there is some construction, but the locals swear they will demolish it soon) but be prepared for a good walk to reach the sea... you have to cross the whole resort, the road along it and then 150-200 metres of blazing beach to reach the water's edge. I must say that on very hot days (which duly arrived) this is not exactly a pleasure. If halfway across you are struck by visions, drink some water and you'll see it all pass. PS don't even try to go without water if you're not a risk-lover!
On the beach there are sunbeds with umbrellas (which occupy a very small part of the beach, but it couldn't be otherwise!) for a fee, as they are provided by the municipality: for the whole day an umbrella with two sunbeds at the Playa del Matorral costs 7.5 euros. The choice of umbrella and sunbed is then very personal: we never took one, we preferred to walk or sunbathe. Anyway, there's another important detail: the wind! Since the island is called Fuerteventura (in Spanish, strong wind) you'll understand for yourself that wind is the constant dominant feature of your stay and will never leave you, not even at night and not even in the remote central areas. At this point I would go on with the story day by day, to give it some order.
Day 123 Aug 2004
First impression
We arrive at the hotel around 2 pm...a (shameful) rush at the reception with the resulting (shameful) behaviour of the resort staff who seemed very surprised to see all those people arriving...as if it were unexpected. The hotel staff seemed particularly slow and disorganised to us. They took over two hours (!) to assign us our room, giving ever more banal and then increasingly irritating excuses! Anyway, don't worry because the Teorema staff will always be there to solve every problem of yours!!! Translated: if you don't fend for yourself you're really screwed, so be prepared because otherwise you won't come out alive! After the room we also pick up our rental car (I won't bore you with the problems that arose with the pickup and the drop-off), a fantastic Seat Cordoba. At 5:30 pm we head off to the beach to test the water and have a nice swim.
The water is very beautiful, decidedly choppy, but above all not very warm. That's the beauty and the downside of the ocean. If you're expecting warm water like that of the Maldives or the Red Sea, be prepared to change destination entirely, because here the water is decidedly cool. Which doesn't bother you, especially when outside the temperature soars.
In the evening, after a very lavish dinner at the mega buffet (that's not a joke) of our resort, we take a drive towards the small town of Jandia, which is just a few hundred metres from the resort, and then to Morro Jable (about 4 km). Jandia is an "artificial" town. It's all hotels and guesthouses, with dozens and dozens of restaurants, pubs and clubs, as well as stalls and little shops for tourists. There's also a (multilingual) doctor and a large shopping centre. In short, if you want to do some shopping, it's the right place. Morro Jable, on the other hand, has more the character of a Fuerteventura village, low white houses, little shops selling fruit and vegetables, a few places to eat, but it's still very much affected by its proximity to such an important tourist area, so you won't find bargain prices compared to Jandia. Just a few more locals and nothing more.
Continuing south there's the port of Morro Jable where the ferries to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria depart. Exhausted, we go to bed.
Sea of Morro Jable, in front of our resort
Day 224 Aug 2004
Playa de Cofete
In the morning the weather seemed better than the previous day, but the wind is decidedly stronger. At 10:30 am there's the Teorema briefing and, as good guests, we decide to attend so as not to offend anyone. Right away we realise how pointless our presence is. There are over 300 people in the theatre and the Teorema lady reels off trips and price lists for the various organised excursions. Furthermore, the hotel rules are reiterated and above all the types of service (half board, full board and all inclusive).
But none of this interests us since the hotel has provided us with a thorough sheet in Italian telling us everything we need...so we abandon the briefing and go to the sea! The wind on the beach is really strong, the sand whips violently against your legs and if you try to lie down you get buried! So we decide to take a walk and head south, towards the town of Morro Jable to be clear. Several bathers are completely naked and we remember that Fuerteventura is also a paradise for nudists. In Spain it's allowed to go to the beach without a swimsuit and so, despite the presence of many people, some bathers (in this area we saw mainly elderly people and foreigners) decide on full nudity. I must say that no one seems to pay any attention and after a few hours even the most mischievous ones must have stopped looking! The sea is rough, big waves reach the shoreline and it's great fun to swim.
Danger even for children is zero if you stay close to the shore: don't go far out because the ocean currents are strong and would immediately carry you out to sea!
We have lunch at the resort buffet and then get in the car. We decide to go and see the southern tip of the island: the Jandia lighthouse. Past Morro Jable the road ends and what the Spanish call "sterrado" begins. One would think of an unpaved road, whereas it's a route more suited to the Camel Trophy than to a Seat Cordoba. We venture out and immediately realise that the car will be put to a very hard test by the route, which I guarantee you is enormously difficult. Many are the ones travelling by jeep or pickup and they had all my respect! Anyway (since the car wasn't mine!), also bolstered by the kasko insurance I had taken out, we venture as far as the village of Morro de Potala and then to the Faro de Jandia, the extreme tip of the island.
It takes us over an hour to cover 20 km, but the landscape awaiting us repays all the effort: it's of an indescribable wildness, the wind is very strong, the sea is stormy, but the sounds, scents and colours are truly very beautiful. Having done 30, we go for 31 too and on our (ever-present) Lonely Planet we read about the Playa de Cofete, which is on the western side of the island about 10 km from the lighthouse. We go there full of hope, but the road gets harder and harder, we start climbing Montana Agunda (about 500 metres) and at the "pass" a sight never seen before opens up: dozens of kilometres of practically deserted beach, washed by a stormy sea! It looks like a painting, it's so beautiful! We throw ourselves headlong to reach it, but the road creates many difficulties for us, so it takes us 30-40 minutes to cover the remaining 7-8 km.
We're on the beach: there are some camper vans doing free camping (forbidden by the authorities but seemingly rather tolerated if it doesn't cause environmental damage) and several cars that had the same idea as us. We take a nice walk, a few photos, but swimming is out of the question. The sea is truly stormy, there are waves of 3-4 metres and the current is very strong. Moreover the wind has reached unacceptable levels, but regardless of all that we're there sunbathing. The western coast is certainly more beautiful and wilder than the eastern one (more touristy), but it's battered by strong winds and merciless currents as well as by the ocean swell that makes the coast suitable for all surfing enthusiasts.
The village of Cofete (about 500 metres from the beach) is abandoned (at least it seems so) and even the restaurant located just behind the village doesn't exactly seem the ideal place to grab a bite (at least as far as cleanliness goes!) It's only open for lunch, so don't venture there in the evening because it would be completely pointless!
The sun begins to set, but we can't wait for the sunset, the road back to the resort is long and we don't want to tackle it at night. So, reluctantly, we leave and go to our resort.
Cofete beach seen from above...
Day 325 Aug 2004
Betancuria
The morning greets us with a very thick fog...it feels like being in Piacenza on a January morning! But how can there be fog in Fuerteventura? Who knows, and so off we go with impossible weather explanations...but once we get on the road we realise that it's not fog but...sand!!! The entire island is wrapped in a gigantic cloud of sand!!! The resort staff explain to us that especially on sirocco days the wind carries enormous quantities of sand from the Sahara desert, creating veritable sandstorms! The Sahara is in fact only 80 km away, so the wind manages to carry it over at a glance!
Incredible, it's a surreal, almost implausible landscape. The sun is hidden but it's terribly hot. So we decide to take advantage of the weather situation and head towards the centre of the island, to follow a cultural itinerary in the footsteps of the old villages of Fuerteventura. The roads are all paved and in the central areas of the island you'll practically meet no one for dozens of km! An important warning for all those who rent a car: be careful because petrol stations on the island are rather rare, so there are large areas with no possibility of refuelling! Think about it beforehand, because otherwise you'll find yourself pushing!!!
We visit Tuineje, Paraja until we reach the old capital of the island, the town (or rather village) of Betancuria. The landscape is always the same: large rocky mountains, nothing around, nothing beside, nothing ever! Only a few goats (cabritos) and a few houses. Betancuria doesn't deserve the road you take to get there, I assure you. There's a church (you pay 3.5 euros to enter), a small square, several shops selling souvenirs, an abandoned and over-restored ruin that they say is the first Christian convent on the island, but nothing more.
Add the Saharan sand and temperatures above 35°C and then you'll understand why we then decided to shoot straight for the sea! Before reaching Betancuria I should point out a small village, Vega de Rio Palmas...it's a village that rises along the banks of a dry river (dry for decades, I believe!) and along the banks there are many palms and prickly pear plants. It seems that the vegetation grows thanks to the water table that still resists underground. Seen from above it looks like a true oasis in the desert! Anyway, if you want to do some trekking (some people were doing it) watch out for the heat and bring abundant supplies of water! The desert is also full of little squirrels...very cute, if you try to hold out a piece of bread they immediately come close to you!
For the sea we again went to the western coast (the one with the waves!) at Puerto de Los Molinos. The place is enchanting, it's a small inlet where a tiny village has grown, inhabited by locals who frequent it only for the sea (I don't think anyone actually lives there!). There are two small restaurants (with Via del Corso-style prices) but the sea is very beautiful, with nice waves and super clean. You can swim provided you know how to fight with the waves!!! PS don't make a fool of yourself because there are loads of kids who go like torpedoes!
We begin to understand the island's climate situation: when the weather isn't good on one coast, on the other the situation can be very different. Indeed on this day of sandstorm on the eastern side of the island (the one facing Africa) the western coast was relatively spared from the sand and so the weather was pleasant and the sun was shining! So my advice: switch sides before you can be certain that the weather is bad across the whole island!
After buying a nice bottle of water we slowly head back to the resort...the kilometres we have to cover are many and the roads...well, we know them! There are long stretches of paved road (starting from Puerto del Rosario towards the centre and towards the north, Corralejo just to be clear) that are very nice, but if you fancy putting your foot down...think carefully, the speed limit of 90 an hour is rather strict and a maximum speed of 100 an hour is tolerated...otherwise the Guardia Civil will become your nightmare! Many cars (of tourists) are regularly stopped for crossing the solid line, or for failing to give way, or for speeding! If you don't want to pay hefty fines, behave yourself...and besides, the wind on many stretches is so strong that you'd risk going off the road (we saw a jeep in front of us having that lovely experience!)
After dinner we go to see the shows organised by the resort and I must say they're rather entertaining and enjoyable! Moreover with the all inclusive, I must say it's a joy to stop by the bar sometimes!!! If you're not there during the day, the hotel staff are quite happy to prepare you a packed lunch...consisting of two sandwiches (disgusting in the way only English families who prepare packed lunches for their guests know how to make!), half a litre of water and a piece of fruit. Better than nothing...
The sheer size of the beaches of Jandia...25 km long!
Day 426 Aug 2004
Rain in Furteventura!!!
In the morning another nasty surprise: it's raining!!! Incredible but true, we managed to make it rain in summer in Fuerteventura! According to the statistics Fuerteventura is, along with Lanzarote, the least rainy island of the Canaries and above all between July and September there's no way you'd see a drop of water...but we managed to delight (in the true sense of the word) the inhabitants of Fuerteventura too! So under a good steady rain we head towards La Pared beach. It's a place renowned among surfers, who exploit the ocean currents to practise their favourite sport. The beach is about 5 km west of Playa de Jaqueta. At that point the island of Fuerteventura reaches its narrowest width, precisely 5 km. The beach is as usual very beautiful and the waves are rather high. Moreover a very strong wind blows, making it all even more evocative.
The rain, however, is truly incessant so we head to the other side (there's always the little trick to solve the less-than-lovely days!) and go to Gran Tarajal. The place isn't really anything special, the little harbour is nice, there are a few little shops with interesting prices, but the beach is of lava origin so it's all dark, certainly not as beautiful as the ones we've seen up to now. We have something refreshing at a bar on the pier, the heat is in fact oppressive. Despite the rain it's 35°C with terrible humidity. The afternoon gives us glimpses of clear sky and so we return to La Pared to be able to swim and enjoy the truly enchanting landscape. We return to the resort in the evening, exhausted from the battle with the waves and above all hopeful for the following day. The good weather must come!!!
The desert stretch of Corralejo
Day 527 Aug 2004
The north of the island
Finally our prayers were answered. The day is perfect, calm and clear...the nice warm wind immediately sends the temperature rising. But at last we can see the colours of the sea and the desert! We decide to head north, destination Corralejo. Setting off around 9:30, over 130 km await us before we reach our final destination. We spend hours driving in line behind big trucks, a couple of stops to buy some bottles of ice-cold water, and then around 11:30 we arrive at the famous Corralejo Dunes. This is a stretch of coastline 4-5 km long where the wind has carried an enormous amount of sand from the nearby Sahara and the landscape is such that it recalls the desert! There are sand dunes several metres high and the sand is very fine. You park along the road and then, armed with a great deal of good will, you set off on your walk through the desert.
To reach the sea you have to cross for 10-15 minutes (it depends on where you park, since the road that runs along the sea moves a little further away in some spots). The heat was infernal, and incredible as it may seem, the wind was much less strong compared to the southern part of Jandia. At times it was completely absent! Anyway, they tell us this is an exception, confirmed also by numerous round stone constructions on the beach. These are small, very low nuraghes, whose purpose is to soften the unpleasant effects of the wind and so they fill up on days when Aeolus decides to blow harder. They are usually occupied by naturists looking for a little privacy...but watch out for the dunes (watch out in the good sense) because they are hugely popular with nudists.
Anyone who finds themselves embarrassed should go a few km further north where there are mega hotels on whose beaches naturism is not practised. Whereas in the south we saw many naked men and few women, here instead many couples are without swimsuits and after a few minutes the embarrassment ends. In the afternoon we moved west towards another very famous spot, El Castillo. It is a small fishing village, not yet devastated like the Corralejo area by crazy construction of hotels, resorts and shopping centres. But it seems they are getting ready to do so, given the numerous cranes and open building sites you can see. Anyway, it is worth paying a visit to the Faro de Toston a few kilometres north of the village.
The part east of the lighthouse is not exactly uplifting...a sort of shantytown, with dozens of tents and caravans on the beach forming a sort of free camping ground from the 1950s...let's say that, in my humble opinion, the Guardia Civil (so attentive to car traffic) should put an end to this not exactly uplifting scene... The southern part of El Castillo is dominated by Playa del Castillo...a marvellous beach made up of two coves...one very large and deep...let's say 2-300 metres, while the other is smaller. On these beaches naturism is rampant, so you are all warned...there is a certain discomfort in being dressed in an enormous community of naked people. Here the wind immediately becomes strong and the temperature is thus more acceptable than at the Corralejo dunes. There are many kitesurfers and for enthusiasts it is a real godsend.
Watch out for the tide because the second inlet of the El Cotillo beach sometimes remains isolated during the course of the day because of the tide...so be careful not to get stranded, otherwise you will have to do a little free-climbing ascent to get back to your car. As for the car, by the way, the road is awful, but luckily the stretch to cover is short. Around 6 p.m. we set course for Jandia, where we arrive after 8 p.m. after more than two hours of bends and overtaking...wiped out by the day, we go to sleep.
Beach of El Cotillo
Day 628 Aug 2004
Pozo Negro...
To rest from the kilometres covered the day before, we decide to go to the beach of the Pozo Negro nature park. Of course the name is not encouraging (black why? Because it's a well?) the guide doesn't mention it, but at the resort they tell us it is very beautiful. The distance from the resort is considerable (for which we once again thank the Tour Operator) about 60 km, but we set off. On arrival a nasty surprise awaits us...Pozo Negro...is a small cove completely rocky with beach and stones all black. A lovely place (perhaps) because it is far from the tourist destinations but in reality out of the question as far as the possibility of spending a pleasant day there is concerned! The little village behind the cove is rather squalid, and so sad and disconsolate we leave.
Where do we go? We are 60 km from Jandia and just as far from the El Cotillo beach, and so for the same distance we go back to El Cotillo to enjoy once again the wonderful beach
Out on the camel
Day 729 Aug 2004
The last day!
It's the last full day of our visit to Fuerteventura and we honour our blood pact: a comfortable itinerary, and so we decide on a short excursion to La Lajita. It's about 30 km from the resort heading north, where there's a botanical garden and a small zoo. We are, however, interested in the Camel Safari! In fact there's the chance to take a 40-minute ride on the back of a friendly camel!!! We go straight away, pay 7.5 euros each and get in line.. the heat, guys, is unbearable and the English tourists are starting to suffer from mild hallucinations... At 11.30 we get on the camel.. the staff are very kind and immediately try to reassure the children, who look very frightened.
In fact the camel is very peaceful (at least it seems so) but it makes frightening noises and above all it seems to be rather stubborn! Each camel can carry up to three people and the excursion is suitable for those who don't have a sensitive stomach... Finally I understood why it's called the ship of the desert... bring your Travelgum! At the end they'll even offer you a nice photo for 3 euros... the price isn't unreasonable. Recovered from the camel ride, we head towards one of the most photographed beaches in all of Fuerteventura... the Playa de Sotavento de Jandìa. It's a beach between Costa Calma and Esquinzo where the tide plays a "surprising" effect... the very wide white beach remains practically isolated because of the tide. So at high tide the effect is water, then sand again for a stretch and then water again..
it looks like a big pond 2-3 km long! The effect is incredible, just think that in the "closed" part there are people windsurfing! If you want to take photos I recommend a phenomenal spot near the Boca de Mal Nombre. There's a breathtaking view and there are lots of tourists who go there precisely to take photos of this incredible place. We spend a good part of the day here and then go to Morro Jable to do some last shopping at the shopping centre and to return the car at the hotel (we have a strict time set for 5 p.m.). As for purchases, what can we say? Many buy Aloe Vera, I went for cactus liqueur and honey rum. Each to their own.. there isn't anything very distinctive. You'll find lots of perfume shops and electronics stores waving rock-bottom prices. This is because in the Canaries a 4% VAT regime applies, but in reality the savings, at least for us from Rome, aren't there.
So after making a few price comparisons we realised that going to some Italian shopping centre and even the outlet, the prices are the same. At the hotel the guy (very unpleasant) at reception tells us that the car will be picked up by Hertz only the following morning and gives us to understand that at our total responsibility we can keep it until the evening... but you know how it is? Tiredness can play nasty tricks, so we decide to enjoy a bit of the resort's entertainment (we've practically never been there) and so we jump into the pool and sample the various bars. To give you an idea that the resort is a stranger to us, just think that only on the evening of departure did we realise there's also a jacuzzi!!! Anyway, the holiday is (unfortunately) over. On the morning of 30 August we endure more hours by coach to get to the airport.
On the coach the Teorema assistant gives us some last advice on the check-in procedures but we (like most of those present) don't even listen.. everyone is sad and melancholy. The arrival at Fiumicino then is devastating... they send us to collect our bags from three (I swear) different belts and then after an hour of frantic searching our suitcases are going round on the belt coming from Tenerife rather than from Puerto del Rosario... anyway by now the holiday is over and we take home (as usual) a suitcase full of beautiful memories. If you've made it this far, you were truly interested. So a warm greeting to you and see you on the next trip!
The Barcelo Jandia resort with the beach in the background
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