Curiosità dall' Estremadura

the journey begins

Around 1 p.m. Peretola Airport, Florence We are taking our suitcases out of the car. We are early, but it's better this way, at least we can do things calmly!!. A goodbye to Guido, alias Ambrogio, and we go into the airport.

1.30 p.m.: There we go: the suitcases are sorted and Sara is holding the boarding passes in her hands......now we just have to wait for departure.

Around 3 p.m.: We have just boarded the plane to Brussels. The delay for now seems very limited. Sara as usual never fails to show her fear of flying and so she borrows my arm.

4.40 p.m. Brussels We have arrived! Perfectly on time for the connection that will take us to Madrid, which is scheduled for 16.55.

5.25 p.m. The world is ending, or rather

Tuesday 3 August

1:50 a.m. It's unbelievable, but we're still driving around the city and we can't find it!!!! Exhaustion is getting the better of our now tired bodies, and besides, the city at night isn't very quiet or safe.

2:10 a.m. Just when our patience was about to run out, a very kind gentleman, slightly tipsy, offered to walk us there. The room: it must be 45° and overall it's really "SCRUNGY," but for one night it'll do just fine, since tomorrow morning we'll be fleeing this chaotic city.

8:30 a.m. We've just woken up. Here in Madrid it's cloudy and there's the typical chaos of big cities in the morning. Since we still have time for breakfast: buon appetito!!!!

We leave the city behind us with its grayness, since the weather seems to be slowly improving. It's hard to describe these landscapes, but over the course of the story we'll try. Finally, this is exactly the Spain we wanted to see. Extremadura: a region in the heart of Spain that occupies the southwestern area of the Meseta plateau. A vast and sunny region, untouched by tourist circuits, left on the margins of Spain's industrial development; here a rural and nature-oriented culture prevails. The landscapes of Extremadura appear just as the name evokes—extreme, harsh: spectacular for those who visit them, stingy for those who over the centuries have tried to wring farmland out of them. Back to us: now we have to drive more than 300 km to get to Mérida, but that's not a problem since the driving is excellent and fast.

We break up the stretch with a stop, given the time, in Trujillo, which our guidebook calls "a perfect Spanish town." TRUJILLO: with its 9,000 inhabitants, it has surely remained, in size, as it was in 1529 when the terrible and fearsome conqueror Francisco Pizarro, with his 4 half-brothers and about a hundred peasants, set sail for Latin America with the intent of conquering it. In fact, about 3 years later he discovered and conquered Peru. The price of glory was 2,000 Incas killed. But that mattered little: Pizarro's epic voyages were admired and emulated in Spanish Extremadura. So much so that in the Plaza Mayor in Trujillo, in a fierce pose, stands the bronze statue dedicated to Francisco Pizarro. Needless to say, this little town perched on granite is overflowing with ancient or even medieval buildings.

The excursion came to an abrupt halt when, on the hill overlooking the town, about 150 meters from the 10th-century castle or castillo of Arab origin, we caught sight of, in Plaza Santiago, the inn "El Scudo," which served us a succulent asparagus soup, egg, and an abundant "ensalada" (delicious).

Around 6 p.m. Behind a hill we catch a glimpse of Mérida. After about an hour of driving on a very smooth road, with the sun beating straight down, we get ready to venture into what is the historic center (ciudad). We're approaching 40°, but we can't give up before finding our hotel.

6:35 p.m. Found it!!! It's called "hotel TRYP MEDEA," it's huge, it was recently built on the hill from which it overlooks the whole city. Opposite there's a brand-new shopping center with 3 cafés, one of them outdoors, plus a multiplex cinema with 6 screens, but I forgot the most important thing: our hotel is a 4-star so who knows what it'll be like inside, let's go in………. Our worries were well founded: built on a Roman theater floor plan, this colossus is entirely in marble with staging cared for down to the smallest details, in a purely Roman style. This inspiration from Roman culture is due to its origins. In fact, Mérida stands on the site of an ancient Roman city founded in 25 B.C. and it became the capital of Lusitania, but for now we don't want to visit it—I think I'd rather dedicate the third and last day of our stay here in the city to it.

10 p.m. I lean out the window of our room and with surprise I notice that the sun is still going strong and moreover in the pool below I see that there are many people enjoying the last moments of sun, swimming blissfully.

11:10 p.m. Our next destination after a healthy freshening up is "Calle John Lennon," since that's where Mérida's nightlife is concentrated. We've just found a tavern called "ODISSEA," let's try it and then I'll tell you………

12:40 a.m. Bueno, as they say here. P.S. In the 4 meals we've eaten since we got here, including the ones on the plane, there were pieces of garlic in all of them that looked like candy.

8:30 a.m. I open one eye.

9 a.m. I open the other.

9:15 a.m. We get up. What can I say from the room where we're having breakfast. We're literally immersed in luxury.

10:10 a.m. Our car heads "suddenly" toward Cáceres. This town of about 70,000 inhabitants is the second most important city in Extremadura and since it has barely changed at all since the 15th century it's often used as a film set and is even on the UNESCO list of protected cities. The heart of the city is called "Ciudad Monumental."

11:15 a.m. Just a second to decide on the itinerary that will introduce us to the Ciudad, from Plaza Mayor, a full 150 meters long, through an entrance on the eastern side. Along the way we find the splendid Gothic cathedral "IGLESIA DE SANTA MARIA" from the 15th century, Plaza de S. JORGE with its 18th-century Jesuit church.

1:20 p.m. Immersed in this evocative atmosphere, we leave Plaza de S. JORGE to go, along a very steep little street, toward an 11th-century "Arab house museum." The intent to bring back to life for whoever enters the daily life of the time is commendable, through a meticulous reconstruction of the interiors and why not also of the patio, so much so that the ancient well that supplied water to a sort of private baths in the building's basement has been restored.

2:45 p.m. Once we came out of the Arab house, we were struck by an evocative little square, which led to a Museum—hear, hear—free!!!! The museum in question contains a fine collection of Roman objects (coins and utensils), plus a large quantity of Extremaduran clothing worn over the centuries.

3:45 p.m. I call the victualler. Let provisions be brought to us in abundance!!!!!!

4:50 p.m. A short nap on the benches in the very green public park, then we'll head back to Mérida.

9:50 p.m. The return trip was, as usual, marked by a steady 39°. But we don't think about it since it's now time for TELEPIZZA, a fast-food place in Plaza de Espana, here in Mérida.

11:40 p.m. Our wandering around the city ends again in the very central Plaza de Espana, where at the corners of this huge square there are 4 cafés, and what could be better than ending the evening sipping a coffee?

11:25 A.M. After a Lucullan breakfast we get swept up in a fit of romanticism and so we head into town crossing a very long Roman bridge (see attached photo)

11:45 A.M. We stopped because of the great heat—thinking about it, it wasn't a great idea, but we'd better set off again since the very ancient bridge in question doesn't offer much opportunity to shelter from the deadly sun.

Around 1:10 p.m. We buy tickets for the circuit of the Roman ruins scattered throughout the city, but above all on the hill on the opposite side from our lodging. It starts with the perfectly preserved Amphitheater, then on to the beautiful Theater, of which especially the stage is well preserved, with great splendor in the very tall marble columns. Sara's comment: I must say I was especially struck by the Theater because until now I had only seen such imposing things still standing in Latin textbooks. Then, after taking the proper photos of these marvels, we spread out on a bench in the beautifully kept garden at the entrance to the Amphitheater. But we're already starting to feel a bit peckish, and so…………

3:25 p.m. We're right inside "El Antillano," a very lively little restaurant in the very central Mérida.

4:15 p.m. We think it's only right to inform you about what we devoured, namely: delicious potato tortillas, and ham ones, followed by some assorted dairy products. Now we'll set off under the now customary 39° sun in search of an ice cream stand, possibly soft-serve.

5 p.m. The opening of the Roman Museum, on the hill of the ruins, is now near. Rumor has it that the aforementioned Museum is one of the largest in Spain and beyond.

7:10 p.m. Our expectations were not disappointed. Besides countless everyday objects, splendid and intact statues adorn the gigantic rooms. But the most evocative thing is the presence beneath the Museum of an enormous Crypt that emerged during the building's construction.

10 p.m. The shower reinvigorated us, and now we're ready for the usual stroll toward town. We're again tonight on Calle John Lennon and we're waiting for our dishes, including a very fragrant fried "pescado" and 2 pieces of bruschetta with salmon and anchovies.

11:45 p.m. After our usual stroll in town, we retire to our "suite," because tomorrow is a travel day, so a very demanding one.

9 a.m. Feeling nice and lively we get up, above all to enjoy the succulent breakfast, and then we'll pack our bags. From yesterday's tour we have 3 sites left to see: the church of Santa Eulalia, the house of Mitrheo, and the ALCAZABA. But let's go in order.

10:20 a.m. We've just entered the ALCAZABA, but there's little to see and little interesting to know about it, at least it seems so. We've certainly confirmed that it's a fortress located near an important river, the Rio Guadiana, which skirts Mérida with a beautiful view of the Roman bridge, and that it dates back to the 9th century. Its state of preservation, given its venerable age, leaves something to be desired. In the church of Santa Eulalia they're celebrating Mass, so we're forced to visit only the necropolis beneath the magnificent building. Last, but certainly not least, the "house of Mitrheo," which isn't a friend of ours but a Roman aristocrat—and that he was an aristocrat we understood immediately when we entered the open-air excavations of his house. It's enormous, about 1400 sq m!!! And inside it, besides a very large patio, there are even private baths!!!

Around 2 p.m. CONTINENTE supermarket: here we found everything we need for lunch, so let's set off………

3:30 p.m. It's time to eat our meager meal. We stop on the MÉRIDA - SEVILLE highway, right between the two signs that divide Extremadura from Andalusia—I won't even begin to describe the scene…….

5:20 p.m. We're at the hotel. The reception makes quite an impression on us because for a 2-star it's very elegant and quiet. It has wicker sofas and a fountain in the center of the patio, typical of Spanish courtyards, which slowly drips water. The dining room too is nicely appointed, with a coffered wooden ceiling and large paintings on the walls. We take the key and go up to our room, which is 320. The hallway and the room itself aren't exactly like the previous hotel, but even though it's a bit more spartan, all the comforts are there, including RAI UNO on the TV.

7 p.m. Tonight too we treat ourselves to a healthy little dinner with the day's leftovers: ham, mortadella, bread, and peaches. Once we've eaten, we decide to take a stroll through the still scorching streets of Seville and maybe even get a little gelato, given the meager dinner.

11:50 p.m. Impressions: Seville is much more touristy than Mérida, where we felt like we were the only foreigners. In fact here there's a high percentage of Italians, whereas in Extremadura you didn't see even a shadow of one. Well, that's all for today……oh!! I forgot—leaving the hotel we found a 60,000 fine on the windshield, because we hadn't paid for parking (we're the worst).

8:30 a.m. We're in the dining room of the hotel La RABIDA having breakfast. And here I must say the difference between a two- and a four-star is obvious. Anyway, we eat our packaged pastina in the "domo pack" and drink milk (a little) and coffee (a lot) and set off for Córdoba!!

9:45 a.m. We've just stopped in Càrmona, a delightful town, truly worth visiting, 30 km from Seville. Strolling around it feels like being back in Greece, with narrow streets and small, very white houses, with splendid patios inside.

10:45 a.m. After wandering for an hour, we enter the town's museum, housed inside a beautiful Spanish palazzo (though to be honest it's a bit in need of renovation!!!!). There are traces of the various eras that the city and surrounding areas have lived through: the Paleolithic, the Carthaginian, the Roman, the Arab, the Christian, and finally the contemporary era. A significant and clear trace of Arab rule is the ALCAZAR, a fortress that dominates from the hill the whole immense surrounding plain, of which unfortunately very little remains, but once we get near it we discover that in one wing of the very old building a "paradores" has been restored, that is, Spain's most charming tourist lodging, comparable to the French "relais" but decidedly cheaper.

We couldn't resist the temptation and went in………… It's enchanting! We look at each other a bit disheartened because we realize that sleeping here would be economic suicide!!!!! Sigh!

1:25 p.m. We're in Ecija, another pretty little town that they say has as many as 26 churches!!! Huh!?!? We're rather hungry and as usual we can't find a place to eat when we need one.

2:10 p.m. We had lunch in a little place in the center. Both the lomo (fillet) of pork and a scrambled egg with mushrooms, shrimp, and ham (rovuelto!) were good, and moreover we spent little, even though today too we didn't manage to taste the tapas!?!?!

2:15 p.m. We're lost!!!

Some time after 3 We've finally found our car again!!!!……… It's so hot here. Ugh……

3:45 p.m. We've just entered Cordoba and after dodging an illegal parking attendant we head toward Spain's largest Cathedral!!! It originally began as an Arab mosque and once we get inside we realize this perfectly. The atmosphere is evocative and the light that comes through the large windows makes the space truly magical. Arches and columns repeat endlessly (about 850 of the original 1400 remain).

7:45 p.m. After wandering nonstop through the characteristic narrow streets of the Jewish quarter called Juderia, we get ready to set off again for Seville. The sun is beating down despite the late hour, but the atmosphere is extremely festive.

9:15 p.m. Guess what we bought at CONTINENTE ……… the wine!!!

10:30 p.m. We're drunk!!!

11 p.m. Sleeping!!!

9:10 a.m. Given the central but very quiet location of our lodging, we're very close to all of Seville's most beautiful monuments. We're undecided about what to visit first since the Cathedral is closed, or rather partially closed since Mass is being celebrated. We'll opt for the opposite side of the square, where I see a small group of people in line in front of an imposing building: it's the ALCAZAR (fortress). The palace in question was built for the Arab rulers of Seville in the 10th century, and later was occupied by the Catholics of Castile. Recently, specifically in '95, it was the venue for the wedding party of Infanta Elena, daughter of King Juan Carlos of Seville, after her marriage in the mammoth Cathedral. An absolutely unmissable place, made extremely romantic also by the succession of royal loves and betrayals that took place in these rooms and gardens.

We move through the various areas of the palace, totally captivated by the preciousness and the high degree of preservation. The inlaid ceilings, almost intact, made of typically Arab "mudèjar" stucco, contrast discreetly with the coffered ones from the Christian era. It's wonderful, intimate, cozy, with a succession of meticulously decorated rooms and very green patios and gardens where the dripping of water in the majestic fountains resounds. It's said that one of these gardens was full of orange trees and was named, because it was made especially for her, Maria, a woman whom Pedro I, the sultan, loved madly even though he was married to a French princess.

1:20 p.m. Our visit is over and coming out of the Alcazar, given our appetite and also the scorching heat, we feel the need to take refuge at Mc Donald's. 2:35 p.m. After a coffee at the most central pastry shop in Seville, we'll try again to enter the Cathedral. Once there we even discover that on Sundays admission is free. We go in and immediately on the left are the ramps to climb the Giralda, the tower of the old mosque more than 90 meters high, built in the period 1184/95. After 32 ramps (not stairs) we reach the bell chamber—needless to say the view from up here is powerful!!!!! We take a few photos and go back down. The Cathedral this afternoon is lit differently from this morning, and both the main altar and the choir are done in a precious Baroque style. Inside the church there's also a wing dedicated to the museum of its treasures.

It also contains candelabras, chalices, gold and silver baptismal fonts.

4:45 p.m. Having left the Cathedral, we took a look at the guidebook and with great eagerness head to Plaza de Espana, located in front of the largest gardens in all of Seville.

5:40 p.m. The destination wasn't really that close, but its beauty makes us forget the effort. It's an enormous semi-circular square bordered by a superb 19th-century palace. There's also a navigable water canal with small rowboats, which frames this architectural marvel.

8:50 p.m. After returning to the hotel exhausted and resting a bit, we're back in the historic center in search of a good little restaurant that serves excellent fish and why not also the famous tapas. Found one!!! We've just sat down outside a typical place that's also very crowded, but to our surprise we notice that the dishes are extremely expensive, so we order 3 half portions of: grilled prawns, mixed fried fish, and camarones. "You'll say: what are the last ones?" Actually we don't know either, but from the name they sound good………. Unfortunately we're brought a plate overflowing with microscopic little shrimp that look strongly like larvae. But what do people eat here??? Nothing!!! Anyway, to avoid embarrassment we put a few dozen of them whole into our mouths, heedless of the crunching we feel in our mouths!!

Around 12 After a meager dinner, especially in content, we drown our sorrow in a gelato, meanwhile talking about the day that was just beginning at that very moment and that would see us as the protagonists of the journey toward the coveted Granada.

9:20 A.M. After having breakfast at the hotel we're repacking our bags to set off for Granada. The trip will be quite long, so we'd better hurry.

1:40 P.M. Stop for the inevitable packed or dry lunch!! Under a tree near the highway exit. P.S. We stole an orange, but strangely it's all lumpy!

3 P.M. We're in Granada and we've already found our hotel. It's called Los Angeles. It's a three-star and it's quite luxurious, especially in the lobby. Our room anyway is big and also has a little terrace where we immediately start sunbathing.

9 P.M. We prepared a delicious little dinner in the room. The stolen orange was part of that dinner too……. It was very sour and wild, that's why no one had picked it yet!!!!! Sarina, that is, myself, even spit!!!!! Now we're wandering around Granada to see what the center looks like at night. There are many tourists, including Italians, just like in Seville.

8:30 A.M. Ignoring the advice the man at the reception had given us the day before when we arrived, we head to the other side of the hill, where the notorious ALHAMBRA is located. The proposal mentioned above was as follows: if you want to visit the sultan's building, tomorrow there will be a bus that for "only" 55,000£ will take you there and get you in without problems. We had thought he was exaggerating, but in reality it's 10 and we're still in line to get tickets.

10:30 A.M. The problems aren't over, because we got the tickets, but entry to the royal palace, which is the heart of the visit, is scheduled for 7 p.m. Unbelievable!!!!!!! Let's at least hope we can go out and come back tonight.

12:20 P.M. Luckily after visiting the garden, the Alcazaba, and the palace of Charles V, which to be honest weren't anything special, since the renovations had been done in a way fairly incoherent with the era and the garden was full of weeds. We went out and are heading back to the hotel, on foot of course!

2:15 P.M. We had lunch in our cozy little room with tuna and salad and after a short nap we intend to wander around the Arab quarter called ALCAZIN, which everyone considers very characteristic.

4:45 P.M.-6:15 P.M. We're walking around Granada under a blazing sun, but after starting the Alcazin tour proposed by our guidebook we realize several things:

that we'll be late for the Alhambra that the tour is too long that these little streets all look the same that it's too hot!!!!

6:30 P.M. Two ferocious dogs have just given us a "scare," arousing in gimny-Sarina a fair amount of terror!

7 P.M. Punctual, perfect, and with no strength left, we've just entered the royal palace, after climbing the mountain leading to the Alhambra once again. What can I say about the palace?? It's certainly interesting, there are some very beautiful views, but at least in our opinion it doesn't hold up in comparison with the Alcazar we saw in Seville.

Around 10 P.M. We're sitting in front of two big plates of seafood paella, and this is surely a special way to end this long day.

8:10 a.m. We're in the hotel dining room having breakfast. But how can anyone eat this stuff??!!! For what you pay here there's absolutely nothing good, not even a pastry!!!!!!! Just enough time to pack our bags and off to new adventures (sure, it's not an original phrase, but then again we're not that original either). The night before we had planned a little jaunt to Spain's most important mountain range: La Sierra Nevada. If you'll pardon the expression, we were super pumped at the idea of seeing Mount Mulhacen (3340 m) up close, but after about 30 km of switchbacks, we realized that the road didn't cross over to the other side and consequently the mountain would remain very far from our eyes.

11:30 a.m. Once we turned back and took the other road that avoids the mountain, we find at 1450 meters above sea level 3 little villages, one attached to the other: Pampaneira, Bubiòn, Capileira. The view from up here is splendid also because these three villages are on the mountainside and seem to cling on so as not to slide down into the enormous chasm (a very unsettling characteristic).

12:20 p.m. We stop at the most beautiful hotel in the second village, or at least the one with the best view. The cost for a double with bathroom is 4000 pst per night.

1:30 p.m. A big meal, again in the room of the small hotel, and then a little visit to its narrow streets. The outing was supposed to end much earlier, but considering that these are villages built by the Arabs, the mazes they have really make us lose track of time!!

Around 4 p.m. Looking at the mountain above us and a map with a trail, we summon our courage and start climbing up a dirt road (clearly with the car). An hour and a half later ……… here we are at the top, where the road ends at 2830 meters. You can't go further because beyond is a controlled zone and not even begging them on our knees do I think the guards would let us through. Up here it's stupendous. We even witnessed the launch of 2 Frenchmen who were paragliding. The sun is crystal clear and the villages, despite their altitude, seem tiny!! We try to find suitable words for this place, to involve you in this adventure, but we understand that imagination, even if it doesn't seem so at times, has its limits.

8:40 p.m. Tonight too we'll eat in the room since we have our nice little table that seems made for it, ah! I forgot—menu of the day: tuna and beans, and vegetables! (afterwards we'd better run). Anyway, we've decided that tomorrow morning we'll leave, since here despite the beauty of the places it's something very quick to visit.

Around 8 a.m. Idea! Why don't we make a quick trip to the Almeria desert?? Of course, yes. We check on our very detailed map the shortest route to get there. We go down into this kind of skeleton to see if someone will give us breakfast!! Good, there's a man who has just told us it's possible to eat. The mountain breakfast consists of: Coffee + Milk in a super-hot glass A "sbietta" of bread toasted in the oven with butter, jam, and honey. A bit rustic but decidedly genuine.

8:55 a.m. We're paying……. We say goodbye to the lady and……. Off we go!!!!! It's definitely a small detour (round trip it's +360 km!!) from what was our main route, that is Ronda, but what attracted us to the desert is that it resembles in an impressive way the American one in Arizona. Moreover, they say they've even built real film sets there where, especially in the 60s/70s, many famous films were shot (e.g. The Magnificent 7, A Fistful of Dollars, etc.). It's thought that one of the pioneers was Sergio Leone, since production costs were greatly reduced by staying in Europe, without giving up that evocative landscape typical of western films. The sets today can be visited and are scenes of real cowboy shows complete with guns, horses, and bandits. Let's go see………

12:05 p.m.

Finally we manage to glimpse in the distance the first set. It's called "MiniHollywood" and seems rather crowded, but there are 2 problems of vital importance for us:

The first available show starts at 5!!!!!!!! Too late! The full ticket to see the whole set and the park attached to it costs a good 30,000 lire, not counting food and drinks of course!! So we follow a sign indicating another smaller set 5 km from this one. It's called Texas Hollywood and we decide to stop here for 2 other important reasons: The first show is now. The ticket costs a little more than 9,000 lire. We leave the car in a big, almost deserted lot and walk toward the "Texan" town. Suddenly we see, at the end of the main street that cuts the town in two, a man with a somewhat unsettling appearance. As we get closer and closer we see that he's making rather agitated signs at us. His look is in pure western style. He's signaling us to wait for his order to approach the saloon because there are some cowboys coming to blows right inside the place.

At the back there's a window, the temptation to peek inside is strong, but we wait for the sheriff's signal. At a certain point first heavy words fly, or at least, since they were speaking in Spanish, they seemed so, then punches and kicks, and it's at this point that the sheriff decides to go in to break up the fight, while holding the troublemakers at bay with a beautiful rifle he signals us to come in!!! This was nothing but a scene reproducing moments of daily life from at least 150 years ago. The peculiarity of the show is that the stuntmen, complete with guns, interact with the audience, completely unaware of what was about to happen.

1:20 p.m. The show has gone on until now and at this moment the troupe has moved outside to the main street where we came in. For now we treat ourselves to two very cold draft beers inside the saloon, the scene, until a few moments earlier, of a brawl. Ah! I must make an observation: in a corner, sitting at a table, there's a rather large group (in every sense) of Americans eating sausages and beans, proud to be from the same country as John Wayne and Gregory Peck!!

Around 2:30 p.m. We're outside the saloon, a strong wind is blowing and the dust rises suddenly! Rumor has it that the next scene will be a simulation of a robbery at the town bank. Moreover, it will take place entirely on horseback.

3:45 p.m. There's no denying it, this detour we decided to make, even though it cost us some effort, was definitely worth it, not only to see the show—which was also very nice, engaging, and with a logical thread—but also to see the valleys forgotten by the inhabitants of the nearby villages, perhaps because the extremely torrid climate makes even farming impossible. While I'm writing Sara is driving rather fast, because we need to be in Ronda at a decent hour since, now that I think about it, we also have to find somewhere to sleep. RONDA: a little town perched on a cliff 50 km from Malaga. We're driving along the N 340, the highway that hugs the sea, so doing this we'll be able to see famous seaside spots like Salobrenã, Almuñecar, Malaga, and Marbella.

6:20 p.m. This trip is turning into a nightmare because we're still 40 km from Malaga and we've already been in line for half an hour due to the extremely heavy traffic. Comment on these "famous" places, undisputed destinations of VIPs from all over the world: "WE DON'T LIKE THEM!!!!" Too chaotic and expensive. And I must also add that building speculation in recent years must have run rampant!

7:10 p.m. From the highway we see Malaga so we decide to exit at the next one. We can't believe our eyes: "The smog has completely darkened the entire city! It's something unforgettable!!! I think the line we're in right now is enough to make us give up on visiting it in depth. And anyway, the almost 50 km separating us from Ronda and being behind schedule is the real reason why ……………… we flee!!!!!!!!!!!

9:05 p.m. Finally we're in Ronda. It's delicious. The city gate makes it similar to towns from our parts, like S.Gimignano. I think we'll spend our last 5 nights here very well (of vacation, I mean!). Now all that's left is to find a hotel!

9:35 p.m. Found just now, it's called Hostal S.Francisco, it costs 4,000 pst per night and seems quite quiet. To be honest the room, for the price it has, is tiny, but it's right in the center, so it seems convenient!!

As usual our morning begins rather early, with a visit to the places that inspire us most. We start with the city gardens: you enter through an enormous gate and we immediately find ourselves immersed in a collection of centuries-old trees and fountains with basins where ducks calmly splash around. To give you an idea, these gardens are as big as a soccer field, and on the opposite side from the entrance, through the trees we glimpse an immense terrace. Now that we've reached this terrace we realize it's a very long panoramic walkway.

We're left breathless! Ahead of us in the distance rise the mountains that seem almost to cradle many characteristic little villages often called "Pueblos Blancos." This walkway is about 150 meters long and overlooks the valley, with, at regular intervals, mini cantilevered terraces, which I swear to you are very evocative, also because the drop is about 120 meters (like a 40-story building!!!). We continue the walk skirting the "Plaza de Toros" where the inevitable arena has dominated for centuries. In fact Ronda's elegant arena is the mecca for fans of the genre. It was built in 1785 and is one of the oldest in Spain. It was right here that the three generations of the Romeros family laid much of the foundation of today's bullfighting (before it was done on horseback).

One of the greatest was the grandson of Francisco Romeros, Pedro (1754-1839), to such an extent that the outlaws of the area, the "Bandoleros," risked capture just to see him fight. Further ahead, still skirting the ravine, is Plaza de Espana with the Parador de Ronda, a former town hall now a very elegant and typical 4-star hotel. Here we stop and notice that for centuries the city was divided, in the true sense of the word, by a very deep canyon (100 meters). But about 2 centuries ago an architect, Juan Martin Aldenhela, designed and built a majestic bridge about 50 meters long in a purely medieval style, the undisputed symbol of the city, which still today towers over the El Tajo river.

Unfortunately for him, an old Ronda tale says that he fell into the ravine and died just as he was trying to carve on the bridge's coat of arms, placed on the parapet on the outer side, the completion date. In fact you can barely make out that it says "AÑO" (year) and nothing more……………….

1 p.m.

We're in front of the ancient dwelling of the MORO KING, which is just past the bridge. We'll take the opportunity to visit it.

1:45 p.m.

Already done, no trace of the house, but its fame comes from the fact that with a series of endless underground stairs you reach the river level where the Sultana bathed far from the indiscreet eyes of her subjects (since the "little beach" was at the bottom of the canyon), very evocative!!

Around 4 p.m.

Skipping the lunch moment, I'll describe the most hilarious moment of this torrid day: Gimny Sarina, while we were walking along a slightly downhill little street, slips on a metal manhole cover and falls ruinously to the ground, scraping a "little foot" and both palms of her hands. After eating 2 ice cream cups at 5,000 lire each, we continue the visit to this pretty little town. What's more interesting than a visit to the "Bandoleros" museum. And so we went in for the modest sum of 7,500 lire. The inside was literally wallpapered with photos, historical documents, clippings from old newspapers, statues, and models. Of course it must be said that the faces, especially of the last bandolero of whom there's any record, are certainly not very reassuring.

10 p.m. Tonight it's the turn of "EL PORTON" on a "Calle" across from the Arena. The menu we chose is very "combinados," that is "combinados de tapas" and "combinados de mariscos."

11:30 p.m. We're having coffee in the nearby square at a little place called "BANANAS"

Around 12 We're trying to sleep but we think it's a very difficult thing for various reasons:

1. The little girl (pecheña), daughter of the owners of the eatery, is screaming in an indescribable way, as if it were noon. 2. Next to our room there's a filthy (pardon the adjective) yellow-face with a lady who has been washing clothes for half an hour in the tub with the shower water running as if it's gone crazy. 3. Outside the scooters "roar" like maniacs; in fact they have exhaust pipes that would make the organizers of the "MOTOR SHOW" pale. 4. The garbage truck has already passed twice under our windows. 5. The hotel guests coming back don't care in the least about the noise they're making in the middle of the night.

10:10 am

After hastily packing our bags and inventing an absurd excuse for the owners, something like: "We have to get back to Italy quickly! We're sorry!", we go in search of another, somewhat quieter place.

1 pm

After 3 or 4 attempts we've found it, it's near "EL PORTON", it's quite well kept and costs 5,600 pts + VAT per night. Better than nothing.

2:45 pm

After eating in our room as always, we're on our way to "El Corro", about 100 km from Ronda, where the Rio Guadalhorce carves its way through the extraordinary gorge of "EL CHORRO", as it happens, 400 m deep and barely 10 wide. Let me point out that of its 7 km of length we walked barely 20 m, since it was a walkway half-closed to the public attached to the wall because it's 150 m above the ground. Here the bandoleros like El T......(the early riser), born in 1800 near Cordoba, demanded an ounce of gold for every vehicle that crossed his territory. On the way back we stopped on the shore of the "Fuente de Pietra" lagoon (or something like that), a huge lake where flamingos lay their eggs.

8:15 pm

As soon as we arrive at the hotel we decide to eat in the restaurant next door!

9:50 pm

We've just now ordered tapas and swordfish with potatoes. The price isn't among the lowest, but at least it's very delicious.

11:45 pm

Before going back to the hotel, we returned to the very central delightful and very quiet square to enjoy a very strong coffee, and who do we see 2 m from us? The owners of the hostel S. Francisco with the little girl who sings (worthy of Bravo Bravissimo with Mike Buongiorno). We get up suddenly so as not to be seen, pay, and run off "fleeing", always with total indifference.

Today we dedicated almost entirely to a visit to the characteristic Spanish villages perched on hills or mountains called "PUEBLOS BLANCOS" like Arcos de la Frontera, and we also went as far as Cadiz, Puerto de S. Maria and others. The curiosity to see this part of the coast drove us all the way down here despite the real heat, but I must say as a strictly personal opinion that we didn't like it much, maybe we should have stopped a bit longer, but unfortunately we have to return to our town, which is also a bit far away.

10 PM New little restaurant this evening called "Royal I de Antonio". It's located in a central position in Ronda right in front of the very green park that leads to the terrace described earlier. Too bad we only discovered it now. After a few minutes of indecision, we ordered:

- 1 pitcher of Sangria - Sopa de Picadillo - Gazpacho - Calamares frito - Gambas al ajillo (just for a change) Our comment comes spontaneously: delicious, but a bit overwhelmed by the fumes of alcohol.

The morning of the penultimate day of this fascinating vacation was spent in semi-idleness, also because almost all the shops on the main street were closed. We nevertheless "window-shopped" something to buy later in the evening. Since it's almost lunchtime we head back to the hotel.

3:30 PM

A little stroll through the immense public garden with ice cream cone included, sunbathing on the terrace over the cliff and buying some souvenirs.

6 PM

We decide to take the last photos of the roll at the majestic bridge. This time we opt for a very original position. We go down to the bottom of the valley to the old mill and further to the old walls of the "Ciudad". Gymny Sarina, this is the nickname she earned after this performance, is forced to stop repeatedly during the very exhausting ascent.

Around 8 PM

After the photographic feat it's time for a shower!!!

10:10 PM

Since this is the last dinner we have in Spain we don't want to "spare any expense"! From our friend Antonio we order: - Sangria - Tapas - Paella The food leaves us stunned for the umpteenth time and after the inevitable evening walk with coffee to follow we retire.

Heading back home

Departure day, this one, where you think the surprises are over, and instead fate has another one in store for us!! When Massy goes to get the car parked on a nearby street he notices that the lock has been forced! It was a real humiliation also because they took a tiny radio with a cassette bought at the beginning of the trip, which had accompanied us all the way here.

We apologize to our readers but this thing has literally disheartened us, with the consequent loss of euphoria in describing the stages of the return. We head towards Malaga to board for Brussels, ah! I forgot, when returning the car, we also have to pay 65,000 Lire of deductible for the damage sustained during the break-in to the door.

4:45 PM Brussels We are back here where 16 days ago our long-awaited journey began. The flight to Florence is scheduled for 7:30 PM. We wait and hope it's on time!!