Return to the Asturias

Monday 27/06/11

Mogadouro – Cangas de Onis Mogadouro, Bragança, Rio de Honor, Puebla Sanabria, Cangas de Onis (Roman bridge), (dinner at Bodega Chispa) sidreria Pousada Monasterio 36 euros for a double

Tuesday 28/06/11

Cangas de Onis – Poo de Llanes Cangas de Onis, Covadonga, Lakes of Covadonga, Asiego, Arenas de Cabrales (lunch at Santelmo), Garganta, Comillas (Capricho de Gaudi), Playa de Tagle, Suanches, Llanes. Today the circuit of the Picos de Europa was planned, but the day is foul, low clouds, rain and almost zero visibility. After climbing to the sanctuary of Covadonga and the lakes from which, in my memories, one enjoyed an excellent view of the Picos, we find that the view is reduced to about twenty metres; moreover the temperature has dropped again and we are now at 10 degrees.

Two days ago a few kilometres from here we were at 41 degrees! After having lunch in Arenas de Cabrales (restaurant Santelmo on the main road, with excellent peppers stuffed with cabrales and meat), we decide to change itinerary and follow the coast, an unplanned detour that allows us to discover by chance Comillas and its neo-modernist buildings. In particular we visit "El Capricho" by Gaudi, the only work of the famous architect located outside Catalonia. A visit to some beaches clearly deserted because of the weather conditions, and we reach Llanes, an interesting resort with its historic centre. Hotel Vila Miramar Poo de Llanes 50 euros for a double including breakfast

Wednesday 29/06/11

Poo de Llanes – Cangas del Narcea Poo, Monasterio de Sant Antolin, Playa Cuevas del Mar, Ribadesella, Llastres, Playa Rodiles, Vila Graciosa, Oviedo, Cangas del Narcea The view from the little church at Playa Cuevas del Mar is spectacular and gives an idea of the jagged coasts of the Asturias with high cliffs, pastures and fantastic inlets with sandy beaches. Llastres deserves a visit, well kept and spectacularly perched on the mountain face that overlooks the port. We climb to the mirador de San Roque and decide to have lunch in the restaurant "Mirador de S. Roque" with two terraces with a panoramic view over the bay and the mountain ranges of the Sierra de Cantabria and the Picos de Europa. Hotel Casilla 39 euros

Thursday 30/06/11

Cangas del Narcea – Potes Cangas del Narcea, Parque Natural de las Fuentes del Narcea, Picos de Europa, Cain de Valdeon, Puente San Glorio, Potes The day looks promising, clear sky; we go up the Narcea valley, an area with dense forest where wolves and bears still live. The newly built tunnel doesn't allow us to drive the whole mountain road, but given the good weather we decide to continue toward the Picos de Europa, we pass through the Luna area with its artificial reservoir and a remarkable landscape. After Buran we take the road toward the Puerto de xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, picnic with local sheep's cheese with a view over the reservoir below. We then descend to the Posada del Valdeon and from here we continue into the canyon that leads to Cain, a road suspended over the river under arches of rock, truly picturesque.

At Cain begins the walking route that descends the whole valley (about 5 hours). We go back up to Puerto San Glorio at over 1600 metres and suddenly we are wrapped in clouds and visibility becomes nil; at the mirador de Llebas we barely make out the sign. Descending toward Potes the panorama is stupendous, green pastures with cows and sheep and the yellow patches of broom. Potes is a very pleasant little town with streets in a continuous up and down. Dinner at the "Cenador del Capitan": venison fillet with foie and porcini, veal fillet with potatoes and peppers, then a local dessert "el canonigo", wine "Picos" (67 euros), everything truly excellent (it will be voted best restaurant of the holiday). Accommodation "Casa Cayo" 45 euros for a double, room with a terrace over the river, near the bridge, excellent views over the Picos and the town of Potes.

A pleasant and quiet place, despite being located on the main street of Potes; it will be voted best accommodation of the holiday.

Friday 1/07/11

Potes – Porto Potes, Mirador de Llesba, Porto We set off from Potes on an excellent sunny day, so we decide to return to the Mirador de Llebas, given that the previous day it was wrapped in clouds with no visibility. From the Mirador you enjoy a good view over the valley of Potes and the south-eastern side of the Picos, in particular an excellent view of the Naranjo de Bulnes. We then continue toward Riaño, a pleasant little town that arose on the shores of the artificial reservoir. On the road, shortly after Cistierna, we buy sheep's cheeses directly from the farm (700 sheep). At Leon we take the motorway to return to Porto; we pass Benavides, Puebla Sanabria, Chaves, Pedras Salgadas, Vila Real and finally Porto. A visit to the beach area at Lavra, Leça, and then we head toward the city centre. We settle into the Hotel America, rua Santa Catarina (60 euros for a double).

A visit to the city centre. Crossing the Don Infante bridge there is a spectacular view over the whole city and over the Don Luis and Maria Pia bridges. The traffic in Porto is excessive, it's Friday evening and there's a musical show on the river, resulting in a gigantic traffic jam. We abandon the car in the upper part near the Don Infante bridge and continue on foot. Dinner at the Bacalhaoeiro (Vila Nova de Gaia): Carpaccio de bacalhão, Bacalhão Dourado, Bacalhão com crosta de pão de milho, vinho verde (37 euros). Port tasting at Sandeman, night tour in the area of the Don Luis bridge. Porto is truly very interesting and would deserve at least a couple of days of visiting; unfortunately we have no more time left, but we will certainly return for a more thorough visit.

Saturday 2/07/11

Porto – Milan We leave the car at Hertz and board the flight to Milan