Andalusia between cities and parks

An out-of-season trip, one I had never taken but had always wanted deep down: leaving in May, when most people are thinking about summer holidays... it may have been the urge to get away, it may have been the destination, long sought and not yet reached, or simply the call of Spain. A few days to decide, one phone call to the tour operator and here I am, ready to set off... Andalusia was waiting for me! As I have done for years now, I chose a sustainable-tourism trip, combining three magnificent Islamic-Christian art cities (Seville, Cordoba and Granada) with trekking in the parks, the Sierra de Andújar and the Sierra Subbética, for eight intense days to be lived in one breath!

As soon as I arrive at Seville airport I find the guide of Four Seasons Natura e Cultura, Andrea, waiting for me, very Italian though half Spanish by blood, and I meet my new travelling companions: a young, dynamic couple, Gabriella and Andrea, the same name as the guide, and two friends passionate about travel, Isabella and Valeria. A convivial atmosphere immediately forms in the group, confirmed by the first evening spent wandering the alleys of Seville, among breathtaking night scenes, flamenco venues and the first encounter with Andalusian cuisine, which will accompany us throughout the journey in a sort of parallel food-and-wine tour.

A restorative sleep in a hotel in the city centre, and the next morning we are ready for a truly intense day: first the visit to the beauties of Seville, with the majestic Cathedral, the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the María Luisa park and a walk along the Guadalquivir, then the departure for Cordoba in a 9-seat minibus, extremely comfortable for six people! An afternoon is more than enough to admire this little gem, famous for its flower-filled patios but above all for its incredible Mezquita, a true masterpiece of Islamic art, with a dark fascination due to the dim light that charges it with an almost magnetic energy.

While Andrea works to capture the most evocative corners with his futuristic camera, the girls are fascinated by the ornaments of the mihrab, all in gold and precious stones, and by the hundreds of arches that support the mosque, a representation of the palms of the Sahara desert that the open space is inspired by. In the evening we arrive at our first park, the Sierra de Andújar, discovering with enthusiasm that we will sleep for the next two nights in wooden cabins completely immersed in greenery. A substantial dinner and then our first briefing over a glass of sangria: tomorrow the first trekking among the lynxes awaits us!

What a splendid day greets us on waking, everything seems ready to start walking! Boots on and backpacks prepared with plenty of water and a packed lunch, we set off for a spectacular trek among hidden paths, springs and panoramic views: today we will follow the route of the ancient pilgrims, to reach the Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Cabeza. Always behind Andrea, our attentive guide (who carries an enormous backpack on his shoulders... how does he do it??), we manage to see a great number of animals, of which the memory of two deer and some vultures with an impressive wingspan will remain indelible. Back at the cabins in the late afternoon, the evening passes chatting in remembrance of the splendid day, of which I will remember the scents of the woods and the fascination of tracking the animals and their traces.

The following day, another splendid excursion in the sierra, this time to observe the birds along the river, before returning to the cabins for a shower and then setting off again to reach our second park: the Sierra Subbética is waiting for us!

Arriving in Zuheros late in the evening, we cannot believe our eyes when we arrive at the hacienda where we will sleep for three nights: it is an old renovated oil mill, turned into a splendid structure complete with a swimming pool, hammam (Turkish bath), a panoramic terrace for breakfasts and a historic library... it is one of those cases in which a hotel, if it can be called that, truly becomes part of the spirit of the holiday! Dinner, eaten in a converted historic railway station, is yet another discovery, among gazpacho, jamón, tortillas, paella, tapas and cold beer. The only ones worrying are the women... will tomorrow's trekking be enough, they wonder, to burn off this succulent dinner?

The next day's trekking takes us into the canyon of the Bailón river, a whole day among breathtaking views and the incredible feeling of plunging into the cool water of the river, before returning to the hacienda where the famous quesiño (melted cheese) awaits us with a thirst-quenching drink. Sitting at the table before our well-earned showers, the companions are enthusiastic about the holiday: while Valeria writes messages to her envious friends, Isabella is proud of her walking skills, Andrea shows off his best photos, Gabriella recalls every step of our walk and our guide contentedly contemplates the team spirit, while I...

write notes for my travel diary! The following day, by popular demand, a bike excursion! Along the Via Verde de la Subbética, a relaxing mountain-bike ride, over flat, effortless terrain, surrounded by the nature of the Salobral lagoon and following the traces of the old oil trains. An afternoon as "spelunkers", descending into the depths of the caves, before a scenic little dinner overlooking the castle of Zuheros (the passion for panoramic settings earned our guide the nickname, echoing the famous stories of the Gauls in Asterix and Obelix, of Panoramix!).

Last day of our tour, and grand finale: Granada awaits us! Arriving at midday, and after a hearty lunch of tapas, we head to the Alhambra, the residence of the sultans, for which words are almost superfluous: walking among the Nasrid palaces it feels as though you can hear the voices of the vestals, the orders of the caliph and the intrigues of the court, surrounded by the eternal snows of the Sierra Nevada... as a last day, what more could one wish for? Before setting off again, the farewell to our travelling companions feels more like a "see you soon" than a goodbye, while our guide receives everyone's compliments and a very welcome little gift from the group... what else can I say, travelling and above all travelling in this way is perhaps the only thing I could truly never give up!