Seemingly without any particular attractions, Slovenia struck us with its extraordinary nature, in which karst phenomena have created spectacular gorges and caves. We started with the Postojna Caves, beautiful not so much for their unusual formations as for the length of the visitable route, part of which is done on a delightful little train. What we didn't like about this experience, however, was the very commercial, "industrialised" way the visit is run — an experience that would be completely redeemed at the end of our trip, at the Škocjan Caves. Once the visit was over, since it was too late to visit the nearby Predjama Castle, we continued to the famous Lake Bled. This area too is a real tourism machine, but the views are truly beautiful and justify the somewhat high prices.
The lake has a constant temperature of 27 degrees, because the water is thermal; it is spotlessly clean because motorboats are banned, and it's lovely to rent a little boat to reach the island with the old church and the wishing bell. The lake lies at the edge of Triglav National Park, and the Vintgar Gorge and Lake Bohinj with its waterfalls are, among many things, beautiful to visit.
Our destination becomes Ljubljana, and along the way we stopped to visit Škofja Loka, a town with a medieval layout still perfectly recognizable. There are quite a few well-signposted houses to visit, always dating back to the Middle Ages, and the castle, containing a small but evocative museum, as we've often seen in Slovenia.
We reach the capital, which somewhat betrayed our expectations. Undoubtedly it's a young and vital city, being a university seat, but we also found it dirty and, apart from a short stretch of the central streets, rather run-down too. So, changing our minds compared to what we had planned, we don't look for a place to sleep and head directly toward the farm stay where they're expecting us... only the next day.
Our destination, near Brežice, is reached in a couple of hours during which we keep filling our eyes with a hilly landscape, with wide plains and crossed by several rivers and waterways, very relaxing. There are many farms, and the fields are dotted with Toplar, a sort of "drying rack" for hay and corncobs. At the farm stay our room is available, and Mrs. Martinovi doesn't lose heart and organizes a splendid little dinner for us within an hour. This family, made up of parents, grandmother and 4 children, to supplement their meager income, has for a few years now bet on the farm stay, and Milena is a tireless woman, always smiling and helpful.
She tries to introduce us to their traditions, particularly strong perhaps because they live just a few kilometers from the border with Croatia, in the kitchen and not only, and I want to point out that it's a REAL farm stay: 90% of what they and their guests eat and drink is produced by them! The wooden structure where we eat has belonged to their family for at least 250 years, and the husband takes us to visit their vineyard, in whose area there's a medieval little church owned by them and 2 other families: a gem with 2 fantastic and ancient wooden altars and the classic bell outside the church that you have to ring for good luck. We had chosen this area to take advantage of the nearby Terme di Catez, where we spend a rainy day, but sheltered from it, because the area full of pools is indoors, and to make a quick trip to Zagreb.
At this point, we say goodbye to the Martinovis with a bit of regret to head toward the other spa, that is, a hotel with thermal baths and a wellness center located in Koper, Capodistria. With the Martinovis we chatted a great deal, since she knows English well and he manages between English and German, and we thanked them heartily for helping us understand a little this land so close to us and so unknown. We arrive in Koper where we take possession of our room. This is also a base for departing to Croatia, in particular to Istria, but I must say that the towns of Koper, Piran and Izola, surprisingly, are beautiful. The bora wind can only be imagined on the seafront of these little towns. At the hotel we had the offer of an excellent wellness package, but the food seems like plastic.... maybe all the fault of Milena Martinovi, unforgettable cook of healthy foods.
On June 18 we left the hotel, and the last remnant of Slovenia leaves us with very strong emotions: the Škocjan Caves, Skocian, for whose visit we make a slight detour. I can't find words to describe them, since none would be enough... grandiose, unique and incredible. We have a passion for caves, and in Italy we've visited many, and, I know, every cave has its own characteristics, but this one is truly UNIQUE... far from that factory that is Postojna.... With this I close and say, goodbye Slovenia, land of delicate landscapes and "strong" surprises!
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