Southern Bucovina

I have been to this area a few times, both passing through towards other destinations and visiting. Let me say first that this information refers only to the southern part of Bucovina, because the north was taken from Romania at the end of the Second World War and ceded to the Soviet Union, and is currently Ukrainian territory. With this forced split, the main city, Cernauti, remained beyond the border (see the Tour in Ukraine). Southern Bucovina is famous for its many churches which, for their frescoes both external and internal, are considered true treasure chests of art. These little masterpieces are an integral part of fortified monasteries and are generally at the centre of a large courtyard onto which, depending on the circumstances, the monks' or nuns' cells look.

The monasteries are far from the large population centres, often isolated or near a small village, in a setting of mountains and forests. During the major feast days the doors open to the faithful, who often arrive at the monastery with food and the fruits of the earth. On these occasions a large table is set in the refectory where, amid songs and prayers, the religious and the pilgrims eat together. In these Orthodox places of worship the smell of wax from the many candles is strong; the hour of prayer is announced by a monk who strikes a wooden beam with a hammer, and the sound vibrates in the air, calling the faithful to gather. There are many interesting places but in my view the most significant are the monasteries of Sucevita, Moldovita and Voronet.

The road that leads north from Cimpulung Moldovenesc runs alongside the walls of Moldovita, where a tiny church is completely frescoed, with a well in the courtyard, stone buildings and a bust in memory of Prince Petru Rares, the founder of the monastery. In the nearby village it's not unusual for someone to offer you unique pieces of craftsmanship such as the famous hand-painted wooden eggs. Not far away, near Radauti, stands the largest monastery, Sucevita, fortified by mighty walls. Here too, walking around the church, you can admire the picturesque stories drawn from the Sacred texts. If, instead of going north-east from Cimpulung Moldovenesc, you continue towards Suceava, you'll come across two other small monasteries: Voronet, where during the making of the frescoes a particular shade of blue was created that is hard to reproduce, and the one near Gura Humorului.

The capital of Southern Bucovina, Suceava, isn't particularly interesting but nearby a visit to the Dragomirna monastery is pleasant; though it doesn't have richly frescoed exteriors, it has two peculiarities: mighty walls and a church that develops in height. In this region steeped in religiosity there is also a well-known mountain resort where you can do winter sports, Vatra Dornei, a town that may deserve a stop.