New Year's Eve in Transylvania

From Rome to Sibiu

We left Rome on the 8:20 Alitalia flight. Right on time we land in Bucharest at 11:30. We had already booked the rental car from Italy, so in no time we're outside the airport with a brand-new Ford Mondeo. Our destination is Sibiu, the first city of Transylvania we'll visit. The weather is good, but cold! Once we leave Bucharest's ring road, a well-kept highway accompanies us for about sixty kilometers, and from there only small state roads that cross the villages of Muntenia. It's already a leap back in time. Colorful houses, hay barns, flocks of sheep, carts and a life that appears to us so slow and unchanging. We make a stop before entering Transylvania, at a little restaurant along the road where there's no one. No English, and not even Italian... but with a bit of imagination and the helpfulness of the owner, who is also the cook, we leave more than satisfied.

Our first encounter with Romanian cuisine makes an excellent impression on us....not to mention the prices....8.50 euros for two! We arrive in Sibiu at 5:00 p.m. and settle into the hotel chosen on booking, the Continental Forum Sibiu, a 4-star at the entrance to the pedestrian area, no more than 600 meters from Piata Mare. The hotel has its parking lot right in front of the entrance, it's well-kept and excellent for the price paid. The room isn't huge but clean and equipped with every comfort. Just time to warm up with a hot shower and we're already outside, toward Piata Mare. We're surprised by the cleanliness and care that surrounds us. Sibiu is a jewel, it reminds us of the Czech Republic, Bavaria....the Saxon imprint is visible everywhere. The square is decorated with a thousand lights, a beautiful tree, an ice-skating rink and the typical Christmas market with local products.

Many tourists, many people strolling, a festive atmosphere. We've been here less than twelve hours and we're already asking ourselves where is that country we expected to be a bit gloomy and "less beautiful" than ours? For dinner we choose the restaurant "Weinkeller", a real cellar with a magical atmosphere. It's here that we fall in love with the cuisine of this country! Another walk through the old city and we return to the hotel.

From Sibiu to Sighisoara

This morning the day is splendid. By 9:00 we've already had breakfast at the hotel and we go out to enjoy the beauties of Sibiu in the sunlight. We retrace practically the entire old city, falling in love with every corner at this deserted hour. On the way back we visit the Orthodox Cathedral, where the Sunday service is taking place. The Cathedral is truly beautiful and the service gives it a solemn and mystical atmosphere. We go back to get the suitcase and set off again toward Sighisoara. Along the way we've planned a lunch stop in the village of Biertan, with its fortified church, a UNESCO heritage site. We travel along ever smaller roads, ever more distant from our normality. More and more small villages follow one another, all similar, with these colorful houses lined up along the road. People at the doorways of the houses, children playing, men at work.

Many flocks watched over by shepherds still covered in traditional furs. Also many gypsies, who populate these villages, but here we're the ones who are different! Before Biertan we reach Richis, where there's a beautiful church, and finally Biertan. Unfortunately the church is closed for restoration until March; we have to settle for seeing it from the outside. We have lunch in a nice restaurant, right up against the church. Around 3:00 p.m. we set off again for Sighisoara. In less than an hour we reach the citadel and our hotel. Here we stay at Pension Am Schneidertum, right next to one of the towers of the citadel. The pension is small but so clean and well-kept as to give serious competition to a luxury B&B. The room is large, comfortable and in perfect style. We're already enthusiastic.

We take advantage of the last light to do a first tour of the citadel and go up to its highest area. It's cold, there are few people and here we begin to breathe that atmosphere just as we imagined Transylvania. Beautiful. We rest for a couple of hours thawing out under boiling water, and then go out for dinner. We go to the lower part of the city to one of the many restaurants recommended by the hotelier. They're much cheaper than those inside the walls....but guaranteed you'll still be happy. 30 euros is the maximum you'll manage to spend for two people in a nice restaurant!!!! Tonight we taste Ciorba de legumes and the famous Sarmale cu Mamaliga, one of the traditional dishes made of mixed-meat rolls wrapped in cabbage leaves, served with coarse-ground corn polenta and Smantana, the sour cream put in many Eastern dishes. Truly worth trying.

Thus ends our second evening in Romania and everything is turning out beyond all expectations.

Sighisoara & Surroundings

Today we have the entire day available here in Sighisoara. This morning it's even colder but the clear sky continues not to abandon us. Breakfast at the pension is a pleasant start to the day. Lots of local products, including delicious cheeses, which give us the right energy to face the cold. We dedicate the morning to Sighisoara, visiting the entire deserted citadel and then going down to the lower city, where we immerse ourselves in the normality of Romanian life. Lots of cafés, lots of people, lots of shops. But these, I must tell the truth....not very nice. Before lunch we get back in the car for a tour of the surroundings, which, besides the UNESCO site of Saschiz, takes us to Chris and Malancrav, both recommended to us by the hotelier. These are other villages similar to those seen along the road; in Chris there's a large castle and in Malancrav another fortified church.

To tell the truth, what's pleasant and interesting isn't so much these attractions, which then turn out to be nothing special, but observing these people, their houses, their work and their clothes, and observing how they look at us. It was really like living in a different era. Once in Saschiz we have lunch, trying other specialties. Not to be missed is the national dish of Ciorba de Burta, that is, a tripe soup served with sour cream. Very good. After lunch we visit the fortified church. For 4 Lei each, a lady on guard opened the church for us. The interior has nothing special compared to ours, but the fact of being completely alone gave this attraction more charm. We return to Sighisoara and stop at a shopping center outside the city, to blend in with the local crowd a bit more. Along with the sun, we too withdraw for a bit of rest and the usual boiling shower.

Tonight for dinner we choose the square of the citadel; accepting the risk of a tourist rip-off, we go to the Casa Dracul restaurant, on the first floor of the house where Prince Vlad Tepes is said to have been born and lived. Nice place, nice atmosphere, impeccable service and good food and good wine. Prices a bit higher but even so in Rome we wouldn't have gotten away with just a pizza!!!! With a bit of nostalgia and in the freezing night we bid farewell to Sighisoara and withdraw to the pension. Tomorrow morning we leave early!

Towards BRASOV with a stop in Viscri

At 9:00 we're in the car in a frozen landscape heading to Brasov. We don't want to miss the detour to Viscri, where there's another UNESCO heritage citadel. We don't go wrong, and this time the detour is truly worth it. Not only for the magnificent fortified citadel, but for the whole village, which is another plunge into the past where we linger a while, having a coffee and strolling along these dusty little streets among geese and turkeys. We're the only ones there, and we're pleasantly struck by these little old women with kerchiefs on their heads who kindly greet us and smile at us. We leave the tranquility behind and dive toward the chaos of New Year's Eve and the city of Brasov. It's 11:30 when we reach the booked hotel.

Here we stay in Sanpetru, a hamlet 7 kilometers from the city, the only place where I found lodging for less than 200 euros....it seems strange but that's how it is. Hotel Bielmann is a nice 3-star, clean and well run by a friendly family. The room is really pretty and large, in Alpine chalet style. The garden is wonderful; in summer it must be really beautiful with the large pool in the center. We head to Brasov. The outskirts are those of a sad Eastern city, with Soviet-style apartment blocks and industrial plants; but entering the center, the magic returns....here it's total chaos. So many people, so many lights, the usual Christmas markets. Piata Sfatului is beautiful, as is the nearby Black Church, which we visit only from the outside since it's closed for the holidays (go figure...).

We enjoy this festive atmosphere permeated by that strange anticipation that precedes the last hours of the year! Unfortunately the restaurant where I would have wanted to have dinner is full...as are all the others that don't close at 6:00 p.m.......uh oh......it's not looking good. We begin to fear that tonight we'll be stuck with a hot dog in the square. Satisfied and chilled, we return to the hotel to rest and change for dinner, but at 8:00 p.m. we're back in the square. By pure luck we find a café that has its restaurant open...it's very crowded but we manage to treat ourselves to the big dinner....We wait in Piata Sfatului for 2014, among people with popular songs and dances from famous groups that came here for the December 31 show. Happy 2014!!!!

Rasnov & BRAN

After the party the night before we wake up slowly and, after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we head toward one of Transylvania's attractions: Bran and its Castle. Along the way we stop at Rasnov, for a few photos of its fortress. Bran strikes us right away because, unlike every other place seen here, it seems entirely devoted exclusively to tourism. Bran Castle, better known as Dracula's Castle, rises majestic and eerie over the town. I didn't expect it to be right in the center of the town; I imagined an isolated, remote castle, but that's not the case. Before entering the park for the visit, we lose ourselves in a colorful souvenir market, as inviting as the many local products displayed on the stalls. The visit to the Castle costs 25 Lei, about 5.50 euros, and it's absolutely worth it.

Erected on this spur, exposed to the winds, with its spires it deserves the fame it has, even knowing that the famous vampire is nothing but a cinematic invention. The interior is nice too, characteristic. We like it. After the visit we have a leisurely lunch in a nice restaurant and treat ourselves to a bit of shopping. We return to the hotel when it's night, after making a further stop at Predjam, which can easily be skipped. Tonight I don't want to give up having dinner at the restaurant I had chosen for the big dinner....the Bella Muzica restaurant. Romantic and intimate, excellent food and wine, impeccable service for the usual 35 euros for two! We leave Brasov in the best possible way!

The Prahova Valley - SINAIA......arriving in Bucharest

This morning we leave Brasov. It seems to have snowed, judging by the freezing cold around us. We head toward the mountains, pass Predeal and head toward Sinaia. The road winds among ski resorts where tourism seems widespread everywhere. Once we reach Sinaia, a beautiful town at the foot of the mountains, we immediately enter the area of the Peles and Pelisor castles. Access to the parking lot is paid and the last stretch must be covered on foot. In front of Peles we're enchanted as if we were in a fairy-tale world. Without a doubt the most beautiful thing seen so far. We walk up to the castle and every corner deserves a stop. Entrance to the castle costs 25 Lei and access is in small groups divided by language. We choose the English tour, but we don't pay the surcharge to take photographs.

(A bit excessive....) The Castle, summer residence of King Carol of Romania and his consort Elisabeth, is simply a little marvel. Truly a marvel. On its own it would be worth a trip to this region. We leave this magical place with regret and resume our journey toward Bucharest. Descending from the mountains we enter a thick fog, which will give way to the grayness of the plain.... We pass the outskirts of Ploiesti, sad and desolate, and take the brand-new highway for the last 60 kilometers separating us from the capital. For lunch we stop at Snagov, where there's practically no one. We arrive in Bucharest around 3:00 p.m. All my memories of the outskirts of Moscow resurface as we enter the city, where only concrete and obscene apartment blocks surround us. I didn't expect anything different, but this gray seems to seep inside you.

We reach our hotel, at the entrance to the Lipscani pedestrian area, on the corner with the central Piata Unirii. Very convenient for a stop in the city, a standard 4-star in an excellent location. We treat ourselves to rest and relaxation, going out toward evening. We enter the shopping center on Piata Unirii and I must confirm that the shops are certainly not a shopping paradise. We enter Lipscani, where restaurants, pubs and night clubs follow one after another. We choose a typical restaurant and return to the hotel.

Bucharest

Today is the last day on Romanian soil. At 7:00 p.m. we have the flight that will take us home. We dedicate the time we have left to the capital. And believe me...it's more than enough. We started with the enormous Palace erected by Ceausescu, today the seat of Parliament. Gray, immense, gloomy...majestically horrible. And we plunged back into the most famous streets of Lipscani: Strada Franceza, Strada Selari, Strada Lipscani with its market and the only beauty of Bucharest, found on Strada Stavropolos. A small Orthodox monastery where the nuns were intent on celebrating mass. The small monastery is like a little gem still embedded in the destruction caused around it. We then headed toward the famous Calea Victoriei, passing in front of the national bank, the military club and the Hotel Casa Capsa. Anonymous. Nothing here really pleased us.

Calling Bucharest the "Paris of the East" really seems like a slap and an insult. For lunch we discovered another corner that gave us two hours of magic; too bad it was too crowded. The Carù Cu Bere restaurant is an old early-twentieth-century building where eating with the background of a live orchestra playing takes you back to the splendor of times gone by. It's time to go...we get back in our car and, traveling along the wide boulevards, return toward the airport. We pass the Arch of Triumph....best left alone. We reach the airport as night is falling. Goodbye Romania. A country we'll carry with us as a splendid memory, many recipes to try again at home and many fewer prejudices toward a people different from what we can imagine from Italy.