In Lisbon we pick up the car at Hertz, a brand-new Citroën C3. We set off around 4 p.m. heading north; first stop at Santarém, a short stroll in the historic centre as far as the viewpoint over the Tagus (Tejo) valley. We then continue towards Coimbra, where we settle into the Residencial "Flor de Coimbra", a small family-run guesthouse in an old house recently renovated, which for several years has hosted the artists of the "Coimbra Jazz". The residencial is in a very central area, from which the whole historic quarter can be reached on foot. (Cost €50 for a double with breakfast included). The aroma coming from the kitchen is too inviting and we decide to stop for dinner. The evening continues at the Santa Cruz café with a fado show and then a few kilometres to walk it off!!
Saturday 25/6/11 Coimbra
Visit to the city of Coimbra, starting from the Almedina gate we climb the "Quebra Costas" staircase up to the old cathedral, where we run into the first wedding of the day. We continue towards the museum of………. In front of the museum is the new cathedral and we run into the second wedding; the housekeeper at the entrance obliges us to make a €1 offering for the works of the church. Opposite the cathedral stands the new University and a little further on the old University, housed in an old royal palace. Not to be missed are the University palace and the Joanina Library. We then go back down towards the baixa to reach the Almedina gate again. Having taken the shopping street on the left, we arrive at the Santa Clara bridge, from which there is a good view of the historic part of the city.
Dinner on the banks of the Mondego in one of the little restaurants of the Parque Verde, a night-time panoramic tour and back to the Café Santa Cruz, where various groups of "tuna" perform traditional music in the little square opposite. In the little square of Santa Cruz there is an interesting little shop with all the regional products: sweets, honey, herbal teas, oil, cheeses, ham, etc. etc.
Sunday 26/6/11 Coimbra - Mogadouro
We set off heading north; today's goal is the Serra da Estrela and the upper Douro valley. The roads are incredibly empty; we travel several km without meeting anyone. The new roads, in perfect condition, seem oversized for the amount of traffic that exists, and as if that weren't enough, an endless number of works in progress. Most of the projects are financed by the European Commission, and these pharaonic works seem a bit out of place if we think of the economic situation of Portugal, which is almost on the verge of bankruptcy, with a troika of international commissioners propping up the country's finances. Anyway, we continue, and our first stop is at Seia, at the foot of the Serra da Estrela; we buy a punnet of fantastic sour cherries and we climb up the Serra.
The new C3 seems to struggle a little on the 10% or 12% gradients, but slowly we go up; we find the first shops selling "queijo da serra", a fabulous sheep's cheese, leather goods and the dogs of the serra. The highest point of Portugal is found among these mountain ranges, and more precisely at Torre (1,995 metres). We allow ourselves a stop and buy the famous cheese and "serrano" ham. We are at 200 metres, but the temperature stays around 30 degrees; we dare not imagine what hell awaits us lower down. After Torre, we descend towards the glacial valley of the Zêzere, which can be glimpsed from above from the Cantaro Magro viewpoint. We then go down to Covilhã, a town famous for its wool. We reach Guarda shortly after 1 p.m., with a temperature of about 39 degrees. The historic centre is interesting, and the completely deserted streets and squares make the atmosphere surreal.
This city, perched on the rocky spur of a hill, served to control the border area between Christians to the north and Muslims towards present-day Spain. Around Guarda there are a series of fortified citadels from the medieval period; we visit Pinhel and Castelo Rodrigo, the latter undoubtedly the most suggestive and best preserved. Near the castle there is a bar with delicious sweets, tea and other local products that are absolutely not to be missed. After Guarda we leave the Mondego river and continue towards the upper Douro valley; the road runs between olive groves that, before reaching the valley, give way to vineyards. In this area some of the best Portuguese wines are produced. For the night we settle into the "Casa das Aguas Ferreas", a private house with a few guest rooms (€50 for a double). The house is set in greenery about 2 km from Mogadouro.
For dinner the famous "Costoleta de vitela" (Estoril restaurant), truly delicious. A short stroll in the historic centre under restoration (here too with European funds). The old part of the little town is still characteristic and will probably be even more enhanced once the restoration works are finished.
Monday 27/06/11
Mogadouro – Cangas de Onís Mogadouro, Bragança, Rio de Onor, Puebla de Sanabria, Cangas de Onís (Roman bridge), (dinner at Bodega Chispa) cider house Pousada Monasterio €36
Tuesday 28/06/11
Cangas de Onís – Poo de Llanes Cangas de Onís, Covadonga, Lakes of Covadonga, Asiego, Arenas de Cabrales (lunch at Santelmo), Garganta, Comillas (Gaudí's Capricho), Playa de Tagle, Suances, Llanes. Today the plan was to do the circuit of the Picos de Europa, but the day is foul: low clouds, rain and almost zero visibility. After climbing to the sanctuary of Covadonga and the lakes from which, in my memories, one enjoyed an excellent view of the Picos, we find that the view is reduced to about twenty metres; moreover the temperature has dropped again and we are now at 10º.
Two days ago, a few kilometres from here, we were at 41º! After lunch at Arenas de Cabrales (Santelmo restaurant on the main road, with excellent cabrales-stuffed peppers and meat), we decide to change itinerary and follow the coast, an unplanned detour that lets us discover Comillas by chance and its neo-modernist buildings. In particular we visit "El Capricho" by Gaudí, the only work by the famous architect located outside Catalonia. A visit to some beaches, clearly deserted because of the weather conditions, and we reach Llanes, an interesting place with its historic centre. Hotel Vila Miramar Poo de Llanes €50 breakfast included
Wednesday 29/06/11
Poo de Llanes – Cangas del Narcea Poo, Monasterio de Sant Antolín, Playa Cuevas del Mar, Ribadesella, Llastres, Playa Rodiles, Vila Graciosa, Oviedo, Cangas del Narcea The view from the little church of Playa Cuevas del Mar is spectacular and gives an idea of the jagged coasts of the Asturias, with high cliffs, pastures and fantastic inlets with sandy beaches. Llastres is worth a visit, well kept and spectacularly perched on the mountain wall that overlooks the port. We go up to the mirador de San Roque and decide to have lunch at the "Mirador de S. Roque" restaurant, with two terraces offering a panoramic view over the bay, the mountain ranges of the Sierra de Cantabria and the Picos de Europa. Hotel Casilla €39
Thursday 30/06/11
Cangas del Narcea – Potes Cangas del Narcea, Parque Natural de las Fuentes del Narcea, Picos de Europa, Caín de Valdeón, Puente San Glorio, Potes The day is promising, clear sky; we go back up the Narcea valley, an area with dense forest where wolves and bears still live. The new tunnel that has been built does not allow us to travel the whole mountain road, but given the good weather we decide to continue towards the Picos de Europa; we pass through the area of Luna with its reservoir and a village
Day 130 Jun 2011
We then go down to the Posada del valdeon and from here we continue into the canyon that leads to Cain, a road suspended over the river under archways of rock, truly picturesque. At Cain the walking trail begins that goes back down the whole valley (about 5 hours). We go back up to Puerto San Glorio at over 1600 meters and suddenly we're enveloped in clouds and visibility becomes zero; at the mirador de Llebas we can barely make out the sign. Descending toward Potes the panorama is stupendous, the green pastures with cows and sheep and the yellow patches of broom. Potes is a very pleasant little town with the streets in a continuous up and down.
Dinner at the "Cenador del Capitan": venison fillet with foie gras and porcini, veal fillet with potatoes and peppers, then a local dessert "el canonigo", wine "Picos" (67 €), all truly excellent (it will be elected best restaurant of the vacation). Accommodation "Casa Cayo" 45 € for a double, room with a terrace over the river, near the bridge, great views over the Picos and over the town of Potes. A pleasant and quiet place, despite being located on the main street of Potes; it will be elected best accommodation of the vacation.
Friday 01/06/11 Potes – Porto Potes, Mirador de Llesba, Porto We leave Potes on a great sunny day, so we decide to go back to the Mirador de Llebas, since the day before it was shrouded in clouds with no visibility at all. From the Mirador there's a good view over the valley of Potes and over the south-eastern side of the Picos, in particular a great view of the Naranjo de Bulnes. We then continue toward Riaño, a nice little town that sprang up on the shores of the artificial reservoir. On the road, shortly after Cistierna, we buy sheep's cheeses directly at the farm (700 sheep). In Leon we get on the highway to return to Porto, passing Benvides, Puebla Sanabria, Chaves, Pedras Salgadas, Vila Real and finally Porto. A visit to the area of the beaches at Lavra, Leça and then we head toward the city center. We settle in at the Hotel America, rua Santa Catarina (60 € for a double).
A visit to the city center. Passing over the Don Infante bridge there's a spectacular view over the whole city and over the Don Luis and Maria Pia bridges. The traffic in Porto is outrageous, it's Friday evening and there's a musical show on the river, the result being a gigantic traffic jam. We abandon the car in the upper part near the Don Infante bridge and continue on foot. Dinner at Bacalhaoeiro (Vila Nova de Gaia): Carpaccio de bacalhão, Bacalão Dourado, Bacalhão com crosta de pão de milho, vinho verde (37 €). Port tasting at Sandeman, a nighttime stroll in the area of the Don Luis bridge. Porto is truly very interesting and would deserve at least a couple of days of visiting, unfortunately we no longer have time, but we'll surely return for a more thorough visit.
Saturday 02/07/11 Porto – Milan We leave the car at Hertz and board the flight to Milan
1 reader comments
Come dice Miranda Miranda alla fine del suo romanzo "Il Portogallo è un'isola" - "Bastano due ore per allontanarsi da un sogno".