From miracles to the Olympus of pizza: A day in Crema

If our trip had taken place two thousand years ago, instead of taking the Strada Statale Paullese, which links Milan with Crema, we would have done as the Native Americans did: we would have arrived here aboard slender canoes, or rather dugout canoes, carved from a tree trunk. Paddling along the numerous waterways that at the time characterised this territory, we would have reached our destination without polluting, admiring that landscape which today the history books tell us about: for the most part submerged by the waters of the present-day rivers Serio, Adda and Oglio, but also by canals, millraces and springs which, receding, gave way to emerged lands such as the Insula Fulcheria, an island surrounded by Lake Gerundo. Today there is no longer the island, nor the lake, but incredibly the dugout canoes have remained.

We also saw them during this day of ours in the Cremasco area, at the Museo Civico of Crema, in whose section dedicated to river archaeology thirteen dugout canoes from the 3rd century AD are displayed, made of oak wood, found in the beds of the rivers Adda, Oglio and Po in almost perfect condition. But this miracle of nature is certainly not the only miracle that the discovery of Crema has reserved for us: the town's spiritual history is rich in extraordinary events. Indeed, in 1490 the religious thread became intertwined with the tragic one of a mystery. The chronicles of the time recount how a Bergamasco ex-convict had killed his young wife Caterina degli Uberti, a member of a well-to-do family of Crema.

The woman, gravely wounded, prayed to the Madonna that the Sacraments might be administered to her before she passed away, and so it happened: a woman dressed poorly appeared to her and said "I am she whom you have called". The haemorrhages ceased for the time necessary to bring the dying woman to the parish for the Holy Sacraments. A wooden cross was placed on the site of the crime, and following further miracles, including the healing of a child, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Croce was built from 1490 to 1500. During our walk through the town's streets steeped in history we also admired many other churches, including the oldest in Crema, the 14th-century Duomo. But wandering around Crema, we also found a piece of America, represented by the legendary Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe.

And to "meet" them, we only had to reach the Ristorante Pizzeria "Il Pappagallo", in via Cappuccini. We had heard about this place because of the numerous awards its owner, Ignazio Di Marzo, has won in the most important world pizza competitions. So for dinner we have the honour of tasting pizzas made by a world champion, as well as an Olympic champion, Mr Ignazio, along with the many specialities offered by the restaurant. Glancing around, we see on the walls the diplomas and awards he won in competitions involving the best pizza makers in the world. "In this photo I'm next to Miss Italy, since the World Pizza Championship is held every year at Salsomaggiore Terme, and she is the event's godmother," Mr Ignazio explains. "I've also made the horse of the Rai headquarters out of pizza dough, along with many other prize-winning creations," he continues.

And what do Elvis and Marilyn have to do with it? Simple: they are Mr Ignazio's heroes, which is why the photos of the two figures alternate on the walls with the pizza championship awards. "My first place was called Elvis," he tells us. All that's left is to give ourselves up to the pleasures of good food. The pizzas come in so many types and colours that it's only natural to think of the parrots of the tropical forests. On the menu we count 69 types of pizza, plus one, called "Ignazio Fantasia", topped at the pizza maker's discretion.

We decide to try some of the most imaginative: the "Jungla", with mozzarella, walnut sauce, speck, taleggio, rocket and grana, the "Kaimano", with tomato, mozzarella, crisps and fried calamari, the Autunnale, with tomato, mozzarella, chestnuts, honey mushrooms, speck and honey, the "Blu profondo", with tomato, mozzarella, king prawns and rocket, the "Cacatua", with tomato, mozzarella, speck, gorgonzola and pears, and the inevitable "Pappagallo", with buffalo mozzarella, Pachino cherry tomatoes, porcini, cured ham and rocket with truffle oil. The rest of our group, meanwhile, can't resist the restaurant's culinary offerings, such as the spaghetti allo scoglio and the excellent tagliatelle Pappagallo, while for a main we take the beef tagliata. We close in sweetness amid Christmas atmospheres thanks to the exquisite house panettone.

To put it with Marilyn, "some like it hot", and we're sure she too would have appreciated the dishes at the Pappagallo, and as for Elvis, had he ever come to Crema, he would certainly have found this town "rock", in the sense of beautiful, irresistible and full of stimulation.

Francesca Bertha

INFORMATION:

Ristorante Pizzeria Il Pappagallo Via dei Cappuccini, 32 Crema 0373/30299