A signature day in the city of angels: A journey to Saronno

A city where, walking, you tread in the footsteps of Leonardo da Vinci's Lady with an Ermine, come across churches that recount miracles, but also the gluttonous quarters that make you think of excellent biscuits and the most widely drunk Italian liqueur in the world. You could also take a bike ride in the park of the Lura stream, or give yourself over to nostalgia on the waves of some of the first free radio stations of the province of Varese, such as Radio Saronno Continental, all under the protective gaze of the countless angels who live beside the people of Saronno. A precious mosaic whose tiles are art, spirituality, taste, but also nature and tradition that continues its path in the context of a modern city: this is how Saronno appeared to us during our day out of town.

We arrived here by car, but the first curious thing we saw was a train: or rather, an old restored locomotive that, in the middle of a large roundabout, reminds those entering the town that Saronno is the central hub of the Ferrovie Nord Milano. From railways to radio, the town has communication in its DNA. First mentioned in 796 in a notarial deed, when it was still called Vico Salomno, Saronno is also famous for its splendid Sanctuary of the Beata Vergine dei Miracoli, which rises on the site of the miraculous healing of a certain Pedretto, suffering from incurable sciatica, which occurred in 1447. Another similar miracle was confirmed in 1460, and on the spot the faithful erected a small church. They say it was through the Virgin's dissatisfaction that it collapsed, as did the next one.

The current Sanctuary, in Renaissance style, was built from 1484, and enlarged in 1498 following the numerous graces received that brought many pilgrims to the place. The design is almost certainly the work of Amadeo, who was also the architect of the Milan Cathedral building workshop. And it is partly thanks to the frescoes found inside the Sanctuary that Saronno is called the City of Angels: in the works of Bernardino Luini and Gaudenzio Ferrari many angels appear, as they do in the Church of San Francesco, in the chapel of the Archiepiscopal College, up to the entrance portal to the courtyard of Palazzo Visconti, guarded by a group of statuettes depicting angels. We also had time to visit the Giuseppe Gianetti Museum, dedicated to collections of precious and ancient porcelain and ceramics.

Although it is a modern town, where the air of Lombard efficiency is breathed, in Saronno several ancient religious traditions are also very much alive, such as the Transport of the Crucifix, celebrated every year since 1734. If Cecilia Gallerani, the "Lady with an Ermine", was Countess of Saronno, as well as a very cultured woman and a lover of art, we can say we followed the artistic trail of her memory, made eternal by Leonardo da Vinci, by choosing for our dinner a restaurant devoted to art: the Locanda d'Autore. As soon as we enter, a refined and familiar atmosphere welcomes us, and not only: thanks to Marco and Mary, the owners, we attend a temporary exhibition by a young artist from Saronno, set up in the rooms of the establishment. "Every month we propose a different exhibition, so that the pleasure of the palate is matched by that of the soul.

And then my husband Marco is a true artist when it comes to cooking," Mary confides. Marco's twenty years of experience, gained around the world, including on cruise ships, is soon appreciated: we start with a Carousel of hot signature starters, based on six types of fish served in a shell, and continue with a hand-cut tuna tartare and with culatello di Zibello with goat-cheese mousse and pears accompanied by fig jam. "On request we also make lobster a la Catalane, Valencian paella and various fish soups," they explain as we begin choosing the first courses. And here we are tasting the house tagliolino with cuttlefish ink and scallops, clam and courgette sauce, the house tagliatelle with fresh porcini mushrooms, and the risotto with Branzi from Val Brembana with pears and walnuts.

After these delicacies, for a main course we choose the Gran Grigliato, a signature mixed grill of shellfish, while our friends opt for the Piedmontese beef fillet stuffed with porcini mushrooms, larded with Treviso radicchio and a Chianti reduction. Our "artistic" dinner can only close with exquisite homemade signature desserts, such as the cake with Saronno amaretto and pears, the apple strudel and the creme brulee. Saronno's creativity and the family warmth of the Locanda d'Autore warmed this almost wintry day for us, and we have no doubt: we'll come back here to taste new specialities, perhaps seated on the summer terrace, from which, peeking at the sky, who knows if we won't fancy we can glimpse an angel or two.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Locanda d'Autore Via Giuseppe Frua, 50 Saronno (VA) 02/9600242