A tasty journey in the City of the Popes: A day in Viterbo

In the sumptuous hall enclosed between the mighty walls of the Palace, nineteen people sit around a large table. The mood is not the best: the harsh contrasts and deep divisions among them prevent any agreement from being reached. After a few days the situation worsens because those shut inside are given only bread and water to eat and drink. At a certain point the incredible happens: in the middle of a discussion, those present hear noises from above, and realise that workers are unroofing the building right above the hall where they are locked up. It isn't maintenance work: the tiles are actually being removed to leave those inside exposed to the elements. It might look like the format of a new reality show, but instead it is the story of the Conclave that took place between 1268 and 1271 in Viterbo.

Since for a good twenty months the cardinals, comfortably going to vote at the Cathedral, had failed to elect a pope, the people of Viterbo, driven to exasperation, decided, under the guidance of the charismatic captain of the people Raniero Gatti, to lock the cardinals (cum clave, hence the term) inside the Palazzo dei Papi, and to keep them on bread and water, with the roof open, until they elected the new Pontiff. The method, though drastic, worked, and in the end a nobleman from Piacenza, Tedaldo Visconti, was elected, who, however, wasn't even a priest: he had minor orders and was ordained priest about two weeks before taking the papal throne, under the name Gregory X. Our visit to the City of the Popes could only begin from the place where this important historical episode took place.

The Papal Palace, which, along with the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, is Viterbo's most important monument, was the seat of the papal Curia from 1257. We admired the mullioned windows overlooking the square, and the Loggia of the Blessings, where the Pope would appear. Wandering around Viterbo you not only come across countless historical monuments, but have the impression of breathing history at every corner: the imposing ring of walls, over five kilometres long, that embraces the historic centre, is striking too. Access to the heart of the city is still possible through the seven ancient gates, such as Porta Fiorentina.

During our day we also visited the Church of San Francesco, a beautiful Gothic building, with, in front, at the corner, the 16th-century pulpit from which Saint Bernardino of Siena preached, a friar who fervently addressed even topics that are still very relevant today, such as ethics and honesty in business activities, and firmly condemned usury. Besides the beauty of what you see at once, in Viterbo there is also the charm of the underground world to discover: indeed, the city is rich in underground tunnels dug into the tuff that connect many buildings of the historic centre.

But another important gift of the city, called the capital of Tuscia, also comes from beneath the ground: according to legend it was Hercules, challenged by the Etruscans to prove his strength, who drove a spear into the ground and thus discovered the presence of the wholesome thermal water that gushed from the hole. The most famous Viterbo spring is in fact called Bulicante, meaning the water that boils, and is remembered even by Dante: "Qual del Bulicame esce ruscello". We stay in the heart of the City of the Popes for dinner too, stopping at the Ristorante La Pentolaccia, a stone's throw from the wonderful Piazzetta di San Pellegrino, an inestimable witness to the city's 13th-century life. In the rustic and familiar setting of the restaurant we enjoy a dinner in the sign of the oldest Viterbo tradition, which the establishment has honourably handed down for many years.

We start with game starters and with the Pentolaccia starters. We continue our journey through flavours following the suggestions of Mr Massimo, the owner, and take the maltagliata with wild boar ragu, and the lombrichelli with porcini mushrooms and hooked black truffle. Almost none of us forgo the area's fantastic soups, so we taste the chickpea and chestnut soup, and the Onano lentil soup. For the main courses we split between the wild boar from the Monti Cimini al bujone, the duck Viterbo-style, and the stuffed squab. Our friends choose instead the oxtail alla vaccinara and the roast suckling pig with potatoes. We wash it all down with local wines, chosen from the more than one hundred and twenty labels available, and close with exquisite homemade desserts and with grappas chosen from more than fifteen different single varietals.

We return home happy to have made two journeys in one: that into the City of the Popes of the Duecento, and that into the best flavours of Viterbo, which sink their roots into the city's rich history.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante La Pentolaccia Via delle Fabbriche, 20-22 Viterbo 0761/342755