Sea Flavour Among the Hills of Alto Monferrato: A Trip to Ovada

Wherever you set off from, Ovada represents a point of arrival. You can get here from the Ligurian Ponente or from the big cities of the North, and the sensation will always be that of a small miracle: the discovery of a sweet and welcoming landscape, different from the one we have just left behind. Even if the name Ovada may make you think of grapes, this is only an impression given by the sight of the endless vineyards that surround it: in reality the place name Ovada comes from Vadum, indicating the fact that already in Roman times the city was a place of transit and therefore also a hub of commerce.

The Stura Valley, which connects Genoa and Ovada also crossing several other municipalities, grants a breathtaking view to the traveller: the winding road, wedged between the green of the Ligurian Apennines and the stream, more or less dry depending on the period, leads to Ovada through a landscape wild and sweet at the same time: a true emotion to experience. But it is certainly no less exciting to arrive in this graceful town of the Alto Monferrato even from Milan, exactly as happened to us, during one of the still warm weekends that we managed to snatch from autumn. Crossing the Po plain with a desire for the sea in our hearts, it is enough to exit the first tunnel of the Trafori motorway to feel you have arrived in Liguria, even while still travelling in the province of Alessandria.

The landscape changes right here and within a few kilometres the endless expanses of Piedmont give way to the hills and the sight of blue mountains in the distance. The monotony is pleasantly interrupted by the sight of colourful houses, of castles dominating the valleys, and of so much greenery. To reach the sea it would still take about twenty minutes, but the fascinating motorway route made of curves and tunnels can also be tackled later: you feel like stopping right here, exiting at the Ovada toll booth, and venturing into the carrugi of this city that unites two regions. Ovada is rich in monuments and churches of great historical and cultural value, such as the seventeenth-century Church of Nostra Signora Assunta, which with its two tall bell towers and the dome draws the characteristic skyline of Ovada.

The city gave birth to a series of prominent figures in the world of the arts, including the nineteenth-century composer Antonio Rebora, to whom the city's Music School is dedicated, the orchestra conductor Paolo Peloso, the painters Natale Proto, who worked on the decoration of numerous buildings in Ovada, and Franco Resecco, but also show-business figures such as the circus artist Giovanni Taffone or Dino Crocco, drummer and television presenter who recently passed away. If Ovada has always been a crossroads of important figures from commerce and art, we wanted to crown our Ovada day with a dinner in a restaurant that reflected this spirit. So, after asking around a bit, we booked at the Ristorante Grotta, in via San Sebastiano, practically opposite the Loggia di San Sebastiano and the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista.

The place, today managed by Marco and Valentina, has a long history behind it. For almost a century it was the property of the Piana family, and frequented by industrialists, artists, politicians who came there even from Milan and Genoa, and for a long time it was one of the most renowned restaurants in the area. After the glorious management of the Piana family, we had to wait until about two or three years ago when Marco, a young chef but with great experience behind him, gained partly in Portofino and partly in Singapore, together with his partner, decided to bring the place back to life. And here we are, tasting an exceptional menu that focuses above all on fish dishes, as well as several spiced dishes of Oriental inspiration.

As a starter, we begin with a Chilli Crab Singapore style, while our friends have the Antipasto Grottino, that is a marinade of anchovies, swordfish and salmon. The anchovies with oregano, the swordfish with strawberry, and the salmon with balsamic vinegar, accompanied by the fish Russian salad, are truly a delight. We follow these goodies with linguine en papillote with seafood, and a mixed grilled fish. Our friends decide to have the large sea bream Ligurian style, and we have already decided that on our next visit to Ovada we will dedicate ourselves to the house's mixed fried fish of paranza. The wines? A surprise: besides those of the area, such as Gavi, Cortese, Dolcetto d'Ovada, there is also Taurasi, a typical red from the Avellino area, as well as some Etna wines.

After this dinner we can say we have reached the sea, even as far as the exotic one, even before having glimpsed it among the curves of the Ligurian motorway: a culinary miracle for which it is truly worth stopping in Ovada.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Grotta Via San Sebastiano, 19 Ovada (AL) 0143/80480