On the trail of the chamois in Barrea, in the Abruzzo National Park

From the jungle of the city straight into the forest populated by deer, chamois and even the Marsican bear: this was our choice to regenerate after months of life amid smog and stress. A holiday that very many people would need is exactly the one we spent in the Abruzzo National Park, in contact with the most unspoilt nature. A set of mountain ranges between 900 and over 2,000 metres high, a surprising landscape that at times even recalls the Alps, thanks to certain peaks that stand out snow-capped even during the warm season. The destination of our weekend was Barrea, a mountain municipality in the province of L'Aquila, located at over a thousand metres of altitude, which dominates perhaps the most beautiful valley in the whole Park. We arrived in Barrea on Friday; we were five friends, or rather six, because with us there was also Pablo, the little dog of our friend Sonia.

After settling in at the Hotel Holidays, while waiting for the nature excursion of the following day, we immediately set off to discover the artistic and historic beauties of the village. We soon understood that this place, besides being beautiful, is also very interesting from a historical and artistic point of view. The name Barrea derives from the Latin Vallis Regia, that is Valley of the King, but it is also possible to recognise in the name the pre-Latin meaning of "ravine" or "precipice". The village was founded around the year 1000, but in its territory numerous necropolises have been found dating back to a period between the 7th and 4th centuries before Christ. One of the unmissable stops of our cultural trip was in fact the Antiquarium of the Safine Civilisation, the museum located at Colleciglio, where you can admire ancient tombs that tell a piece of the history of Barrea.

During our walk we also admired the Church of San Tommaso Apostolo, the Castle with a round and a rectangular tower, and the "Studio", a rare example of a fortified convent, built by the Benedictine monks around the year 1000. The local people also tell us of a curious tradition linked to the oldest history of the village: transhumance. In the imperial period, transhumant pastoralism had been consolidated in the Vallis Regia, which consisted of the seasonal migration of flocks from the Abruzzo mountains towards the plain of the territory of today's northern Puglia. This tradition still lives on every year during the Tracturo Magno event. After this long walk we returned to the Hotel Holidays and abandoned ourselves to the pleasures of our first themed typical Abruzzo dinner, with fettuccine and a mixed grill.

We were struck by the goodness of the genuine dishes, based on fresh products of this land, not to mention the excellent Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines. The highlight of our holiday was Saturday, during which we took an unforgettable excursion in the splendid Val di Rose, one of the most exciting itineraries of the Abruzzo National Park. During the trip we were accompanied by an expert nature guide who was able to explain to us all the secrets of this wonderful valley, but not only that: her predictions even came true, that we might spot chamois of a species exclusive to the Abruzzo Apennines. In Latin these chamois are called Rupicapra pyrenaica, and behind the impressive name are truly beautiful individuals: with velvety coats, a lively and at the same time gentle gaze, and large, slender horns, which among chamois is of course a source of pride.

Now, however, we too, in our own small way, are happy and even proud to have walked and struggled a little in order to earn the emotion of seeing these enchanted places of rare beauty, and of being able to say we have made the acquaintance of some real Abruzzo chamois. Our day had a very pleasant conclusion: another typical dinner, this time with sagne, beans and sausages, and, hard to believe, after the long mountain excursion we even managed to find the strength and enthusiasm to thoroughly enjoy the evening of music and group dances offered by the hotel. On Sunday morning we woke up cheerful, and after one last stroll around the village, during which we went to admire the panorama of Lake Barrea, we had our last lunch based on typical Abruzzo dishes.

Last lunch, so to speak: because we, more stubborn than certain chamois, after such a beautiful holiday, are sure to return to Barrea as soon as possible, to relive these emotions and to meet other deer and chamois on the breathtaking slopes of the Abruzzo Apennines.

Francesca Bertha

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