Lake Maggiore

Angera: Lakeside and Rocca Borromeo

Angera is a not-too-famous spot on Lake Maggiore, set on the eastern side on the Lombard shore. It was a lovely and pleasant discovery to go to Angera and find that the place is very beautiful, especially along the lively and touristy lakefront; the lake itself adds an extra touch especially on lovely sunny days, to the small but welcoming town. From the lakefront you can admire the Rocca Borromeo perched on the hill that dominates the town; there's a landing stage for sailing the lake on the various ferries and there are lots of attractions, from the many restaurants and bars to tree-lined avenues with benches and the beautiful very green lawns near the central square.

The lawns are municipal, well kept, clean, and act as beaches on the shores of the lake; on lovely days (like yesterday), people crowd onto the very green lawns of Angera and bask in the sun with spectacular views over the other shore of the lake and over the lake itself. The only thing Angera lacks on tourist Sundays is parking, mostly paid or along the lakeside road, not too reassuring. after the visit to the Rocca, we went down to the lakefront and, after a last-minute parking, we had lunch in a little restaurant with an outdoor terrace on the lake; the day was warm and beautiful. We then took a walk on foot among little squares, gardens, lakefront, views of Arona on the other side of the lake and a very blue sky.

Behind the lakefront the rocky hill houses the Rocca Borromeo which, seen from the bottom of the lakefront, is very beautiful; we then arrived at the famous and beautiful lawns of the lakefront where families and kids were stretched out in the sun enjoying the last warmth before winter. These lawns are a very beautiful attraction and lend themselves very well to unusual photographs. Very green, clean and well kept, they're a strange component and they reach down to the water. The waters of the lake are dark and these bright green lawns contrast with the dark waters and the reflections of the sun on the lake. A little harbour is a bit further on and a walkway of steps raised above the water lets you walk the whole length of it admiring the little boats and the lake from above. In the square there was an open-air market and a few stalls of sweets and ice creams.

There are lots of venues on the lakefront with outdoor terraces, one after another, and here you can eat any kind of meal from morning to evening. Angera can also be reached by boat from Arona with a lake crossing of just 5 minutes. Going then towards the north, we discovered small municipal sandy beaches, municipal lawns for barbecues and days outdoors, swimming beaches, green spaces packed with people. Angera was truly a lovely discovery! Along the lakefront you can then admire some fine old buildings, old and elegant villas, noble houses and ancient stuccoes.

The Rocca rises on a rocky height on Lake Maggiore, at Angera, on the right side of the lake, Lombard shore.... from below you can already glimpse it as very beautiful and lordly. The car park is large; among the countryside, the lawns, vineyards and hills you find the entrance to the Rocca. 7.50 euros each to visit it freely both inside and outside, that is the doll and toy museum, the inner courtyard, the inner halls of the Rocca, the little towers and upper floors with a view over the lake, an exhibition on the garden. We entered at 10:45 and after a climb lined with chestnut trees we arrived at the entrance of the inner courtyard.

You can do the visit with an audio guide but at the information desk inside there was no one when we entered...so no audio guides! The terrace with a balcony over the lake is astonishing, with a green pergola and large windows over Lake Maggiore, a guaranteed view. From outside you can also access the Rocca's bar. We first went to see the frescoed halls of the Rocca, the interiors and the various little towers and upper floors reached via a system of wooden stairs that give access to some truly spectacular outside views both over the lake and over the surrounding countryside. Once at the top you arrive practically in a large attic with large windows looking out and here the view is truly remarkable, several openings on each side of the tall square tower and a view over Arona and other little villages of the lake. You can spend half an hour up there.

On the way back we visited the museum of the doll and the antique toy, a nice museum, with a remarkable display of unique and historical pieces, recovered from who knows where, relics of the 1800s, porcelain dolls, unsettling dolls of the kind with unsmiling faces and black eyes on the pale face. Various games in display cases to be admired. I also glimpsed some games that I as a child owned or longed for and here I got a lump in my throat...but am I already that old? Is my childhood already "museum" material????? The exhibition is pleasant and cheerful except for the more unsettling dolls.... I took several photographs both outside and inside; there were no signs prohibiting photographs, the Rocca is in excellent condition and lends itself well to photographs that really come out at their best.

The visitable garden of the Rocca is a small plot high above the lake; there are some aromatic herbs, persimmon trees, citrus trees, vines..... green lawns. The garden is quick to visit and isn't very "regal", a fountain and a few statues clearly restored, like a good part of the Rocca. It's really worth visiting because it's very well preserved and some views are nothing short of unique, especially on a lovely sunny day. Right below the Rocca, on the hill, there's a farm stay that to tell the truth attracted me....... then I ended up on the lakefront of Angera and thank goodness! At the exit of the Rocca there's also a small, moderately well-stocked souvenir shop.

Statue of San Carlo Borromeo: Arona

Delighted, I couldn't wait to enter the head of the San Carlone and from up there see the lake area, Arona, and all that is marvellous seen from so high up..... We parked in the car park of a nearby restaurant which was free whereas the car park in front of the statue is paid. The San Carlone can already be seen from below, it's visible from the road that climbs towards the hamlet of San Carlo from Angera. Tall, green, made of metal, on a base already high in itself, the San Carlone is very famous and visited by millions of people a year. You pay a different ticket depending on what you want to do: if you just want to go onto the panoramic terrace at the foot of the statue you pay less, if you want to enter the statue and climb up the steep stairway right up to San Carlo's head and from up there admire the panorama then you pay more......

Yesterday a technical problem with the ventilation duct and the lighting didn't allow the climb right to the top.....Going onto the panoramic balcony is nice yes but never like going right into the San Carlone's head. We contented ourselves anyway and via a narrow spiral staircase that makes you dizzy we climbed up to the foot of the statue, a few photos and a bit of admiration for the area below us, and then...... we went back down. Clearly Disappointed! We certainly weren't the only ones, pale faces could be seen in front of the ticket office and on the lawn around the statue...the climb inside the San Carlone is a used and famous attraction in Arona and nearby.

5 Euros to have access to the San Carlone terrace: Too expensive I'd say! Outside some souvenir stalls were selling a bit of everything but I was too sad not to have been able to climb inside the statue.....and so...off to Biella!!