Aosta Valley

I have passed through this region a few times on my way to France through the Mont Blanc tunnel, 11 km of gallery separating Courmayeur from Chamonix in France. On one of these passages I stopped at a mechanic in Courmayeur because of a breakdown of my Fiat Tipo. In the Aosta Valley I came on a school trip when I was in middle school, staying overnight in Aosta, where we went to see the remains of the ancient Roman city, among others the Arch of Augustus and the Theatre. The next day we stopped at the medieval castle of Fenis, where I remember a hall with a large fireplace. Fenis is the classic castle with towers and lace-like detail. In '89 I went to Cervinia to make a journalistic report on the bobsleigh on the local track and took the chance to see the famous winter-sports resort too. A tour of the Valley made with my partner and our little boy was done by car.

First stop at the Gran Paradiso National Park, in the village of Valnontey, which spreads across a marvellous alpine pasture. Here we visit the small Paradisia Alpine Botanical Garden, which offers little beyond the marvellous surrounding landscape. We then moved on to the hamlet of Lillaz to reach the waterfalls of the same name with a short walk. Back at our car, via the very expensive motorway we reached Courmayeur, taking possession of our accommodation in a characteristic hotel overlooking the mighty Dora Baltea river, facing the wall of the Mont Blanc massif. The following morning, taking advantage of a splendid sunny day, we took the Mont Blanc cable car up to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty, where we let the child play in the playground, which contains a small stretch of water you can cross on a moored barge.

Great fun for the little one, who here can also attempt a "climb" on an artificial boulder or regulate the flow of water in a micro-dam. Boarding the cable car again we reached Punta Helbronner, where inside the refuge passes the border line with France. On the roof of the refuge is the Terrace, from which you can enjoy a fine panorama over the Alpine arc, ranging also over the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. Having crossed the border we continued with the French cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (see the relevant itinerary). On our return by cable car from the Aiguille du Midi we crossed the border located in the Punta Helbronner refuge, coming back into Italy. Taking the Mont Blanc cable car again we returned to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty, stopping to visit the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden and having a snack in the café. Boarding the cable car again we descended to the valley.

It was a spectacular and expensive excursion; the Mont Blanc cable car had recently been completely renewed, and its new large circular, rotating cabins allow a 360-degree view of the surrounding landscape. An experience absolutely worth doing. After a quick car tour of the pleasant Val Ferret, an area of alpine pastures and farmsteads along the course of a stream, we returned to the previous night's hotel, also because we had found that they offer an abundant, varied and tasty breakfast. For dinner too we return to the previous evening's restaurant because it offers good local produce. The following morning we move to Cervinia, but the clouds cover the Matterhorn, so we give up going up by cable car. We content ourselves with seeing one of the most famous mountains in the world from the little blue lake where it is reflected, even if still largely wrapped in clouds.

Driving back down the Valtournenche we stop at Buisson and, having parked the car, we reach Chamois by cable car. This is the only Italian municipality reachable only by cable car. From its small, very well-kept centre we take the chairlift to Lake Lod, where we have a snack in a farmstead. By chairlift we descend to Chamois and continue by cable car to Buisson, from where we can finally see the Matterhorn free of clouds. Taking the car again we leave the Valtournenche to move to Gressoney-Saint-Jean, a characteristic and beautiful village linked to the traditions of the Walser, an ancient Alpine people that has managed to preserve much of its culture. After a tour of the village as far as the little lake we drive back along the Lys Valley and leave the Aosta Valley.