The Wonderful Sicily

22 October, MONDAY

Piazza Armerina - Villa del Casale

Unfortunately the villa is entirely under restoration, the artificial covers distort the structure's real appearance and you lose the overall view; all the same, the mosaics are all clearly visible, even if now and then they're covered by the restorers and their tools left here and there rather untidily. There's a nice rest area where you can also stay overnight; personally, especially in low season, it doesn't seem to me the ideal place. In the afternoon we head towards Syracuse and around Catania airport we get caught in a fine thunderstorm. We arrive in Syracuse when it's almost night and stop at the Von Platen serviced area - perfectly signposted both locally and in the Portolano - 15 euros a day well spent: an ideal base for visiting Syracuse and Noto.

23 October, Tuesday

a lovely spring-like day The Regional Archaeological Museum, about 200 metres from the parking area, keeps us engrossed for the whole morning. The Neapolis area, about 4\500 from the parking area, is the real jewel of Syracuse: the latomie - the Ear of Dionysius - the Cave of the Ropemakers, the Greek theatre, the altar of Hiero II, the Roman amphitheatre and, not far away, the tomb of Archimedes; an afternoon of sunshine among historical and architectural memories of indescribable value. It's almost dark when we decide to head back to the camper. On the way down towards the rest area we find a pastry shop with a capital P; it makes us Sicilian cannoli to die for and an excellent tasting of artisan almond paste. We'll think about the diet on our return.

The basilica of the Madonna delle Lacrime is still open; a moment of quiet reflection and thanks is just what's called for after this splendid day.