A Dive into the Past

First two days

We set off by car for Volterra, after five hours of driving we finally arrive. Our room was large with a private bathroom, we stayed here for two nights. It's a B&B but there are also apartments. The breakfast in the morning was out of this world, loads of things to eat and the lady who runs it is very nice and kind. (One morning she waited for us to serve breakfast.. we woke up at 11.00!!!). We arrived at 13.00 and in the afternoon we went to see Siena, unfortunately we didn't have time to see it properly and we only visited Piazza del campo and the Duomo. We had dinner in a very nice little restaurant in the contrada dell'Istrice. The next day we went to visit Cecina and take a dip in the sea… the water wasn't very clean but that didn't stop us! In the evening we went to see Carducci's little village, Bolgheri with the famous avenue of cypresses. It's very rustic, cute.

We saw the poet's house and wandered around the village's alleys. We had dinner and went back to Volterra. A little tip, if you want to visit this little village you'd better go early because there are always lots of people, and parking is scarce!! (and they're all paid even in the evening).

Last day in Tuscany

We dedicated our third day to the city of Volterra. We reach the center on foot from our room (about 10min) We visit the historic center and pick up the map at the tourist office in Piazza dei Priori. We head to visit the Etruscan site, it opens at 10.00 and costs 2€ (the price however also includes the Roman archaeological area, which isn't very far). This archaeological site isn't very big but you can see Etruscan remains, at the entrance they give you a guide (which you then have to hand back) that explains what used to be there and what's there now! Walking towards the Roman site we find a curious museum: the torture museum… we go in, the ticket costs 7€ each. It's big and you can see how malicious man is, instruments of atrocious torture that make you shudder just to look at them, each tool is also commented on (in several languages too).

Coming out we felt a bit uneasy… Our trip continues to the Roman archaeological site, another spectacle, you can see the amphitheater… rich in history and very moving!!!! Then unfortunately it's time to go back but our holidays aren't over yet… back in Caravaggio, the next day we set off again with two of our friends for Cattolica.

Urbino, Urbania

A peaceful journey, we left at 05.00 in the morning to avoid the usual traffic (seeing as it was also a Friday) summer traffic. We arrive at ten at our B&B: very nice and just a few steps from the beach, unfortunately we got the only free room with four beds… (the cost was 34€ per person per night) The hotel is nice and the staff are helpful, for the car there's a private parking lot. Breakfast is plentiful and buffet-style and you can have it until 12.00!!! Right after sorting out our bags we set off for Urbino, we get there in about an hour, we park near the walls and on foot we reach the historic center where we immediately find the tourist office and armed with a map of the city we go explore it. We first visit the Cathedral of Urbino, beautiful and well preserved, we then head towards Raphael's birthplace. Before getting there we stop to visit the Church of San Francesco.

Arriving at Raphael's house we get the ticket, 3€. The house is big, on two floors, like every museum you can't take photos! I really liked it! Even though from the outside it's nothing special… Continuing along via Raffaello you arrive at a kind of park where in the center there's the statue of the artist! From the park you enjoy a beautiful panorama of the surrounding countryside, very evocative! We continue the walk and arrive at the Fortezza Albornoz, here too the landscape is very evocative, you can see the other side of the city of Urbino, after the ritual photos we approach the fortress to be able to go in but unfortunately it was closed… Too bad.

We stop for lunch in a bar near the Fortress and eat a typical dish "la crescia sfogliata" with tomato and mozzarella, they say it's similar to piadina but has a particular and different taste, very good!!! We continue the tour, we decide not to look at the map and to experience the city on foot and among alleys, stairs and streets we find ourselves in front of the Cathedral, we then decide to continue from the opposite side of the square and admire the Egyptian obelisk that was donated by Rome in 1734. We then did a tour of the city walls until we reached the parking lot. We continue our trip towards Urbania (or Casteldurante) because I wanted to see the famous mummies. Once we arrive we park and take a tour of the city, not knowing where to go we ask a girl who points us the way to reach the Church of the Dead where the mummies are kept.

The city isn't very big and it's very easy to get around on foot. The little church is small but very cute. Fortunately before reaching it we found the tourist office and we got the map of the city (you never know…) and we discovered that there are several things to see. Along the way, we see the town hall and the church of S. Francesco. Unfortunately the church was closed but we waited until 15.00 and we see a nice gentleman approaching and opening the door, he asks us if we wanted to visit the mummy cemetery and we say yes, we discover that he was our guide… and what a guide… he knew everything, absolutely everything about the mummies!! The entrance is 2€.

We go in and immediately a smell of ancient times assails us, it feels like being in a crypt… evocative! He starts telling the story of each mummy, there are 18 and each one underwent a process of natural mummification! Each mummy has a story and our guide illustrated them all to us. We were very satisfied!! Go there because it's worth it!! We then returned to Cattolica, dead tired both from the journey and from the long walks. We get settled and go out for dinner, our hotel recommended a little restaurant nearby and we trusted it. We ate fish and pizza!!

The castle of Paolo and Francesca; the Castle of Cagliostro and the Castle of Azzurrina

On the second day we decide to go visit the famous Castle of Gradara (Paolo and Francesca's castle), once we arrive we park the car (of course the parking is paid)! We set off on foot and discover that it's the classic medieval town. All surrounded by walls!! We go in and immediately find the tourist office, even though it's small, we get the map and our adventure begins. We immediately enter the historical museum (4€) where several artifacts are kept including torture instruments (similar to those in Volterra), costumes and images from the story of Paolo and Francesca, medieval weapons, farming tools and furthermore under the museum you can access the cave and the tunnels from the 6th and 5th century AD. We continue towards the castle and notice many shops, restaurants and bars.

Arriving at the castle we get the ticket (also 4€ here) and the visit begins, it isn't very big and there's a mandatory route to follow. It would have been nice if there had been a guide explaining a bit of the history.. but nope. Oh well, it was nice anyway. Walking around we also find a panoramic viewpoint where you can even see the sea. We stop for lunch in a restaurant recommended to us by the lady at the historical museum (and I must say she recommended very well): it's run by two brothers Matteo and Roberto. I recommend you try the gnocchi with cherry tomatoes and fassa cheese… Delicious! After eating our journey continues, we decide to go visit another castle: the castle of San Leo. After parking we head as usual in search of the tourist office, we find it and get the map.

We visit (or rather they visit, I couldn't go into the churches because I was wearing a tank top) two churches: the Pieve (built in the Carolingian era and modernized in the Romanesque age, it gathers around it the nucleus of the medieval city), nearby there's also the Cathedral of San Leo. Behind it there's also the bell tower and it can be visited for 3€. We then head towards the fortress, there are two paths, one with the paved road and one without, we chose the paved road for the way there and the path for the way back. You can also reach the fortress by car. Once there, we get the ticket (7€) and the exploration of the castle begins, we immediately notice that it's very big and there are suggested routes, but we go our own way.

We visit all the rooms and we really liked it, there are also all the explanations both regarding the fortress and the famous Count of Cagliostro, who was imprisoned here. Once the visit is over we set off again to reach Montebello. We park and visit this tiny town.. very characteristic surrounded by hills. We came here to see the Castle of Montebello, they say it's haunted by ghosts… (especially by Azzurrina) There are two possible visits you can do, one during the day and one at night, we chose the night one, which is dedicated to mystery. We get the ticket (the night visit costs 7€ while the day one costs 6). We immediately meet the guide, in my opinion very good and prepared, she really got into character telling horror stories.

I recommend you see it, I'd love to tell you everything we saw but it wouldn't be right!! You have to see with your own eyes and hear with your own ears what happens in this fortress. Back at the hotel exhausted we sleep deeply dreaming of Azzurrina…

San Marino

Last day, after paying we set off for San Marino. A small state in the Romagna hinterland. I'll say right away that I was a little disappointed. I thought I'd find a medieval city instead it's very commercial and touristy… We nevertheless visited the city seeing the three towers and the public palace and the changing of the guard which takes place every hour on the half hour. Thus ends our journey between present and past… exciting and fun but also with a pinch of mystery.