Tour of Sardinia

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Sea, sea, sea... Sardinia is mainly blue sea, pristine coves, coastlines that continually change from high cliffs to long flat beaches, crowded resorts and still-deserted corners. Always with one constant feature: a splendid sea that, depending on the spot, takes on different colors and degrees of transparency. Following the model of the Sicily tour, here too we did a complete loop of the island, constantly following the coast, starting and ending in Olbia, with a week dedicated to beachside relaxation at the resort of Cala Gonone, which lets you discover some of the most beautiful and pristine beaches on the island, reachable only by sea, and also appreciate the inland area, being just a few kilometers from the characteristic Barbagia.

Besides the beaches, there are historical and scenic spots worth visiting: the Barbagia itself, the city of Cagliari, the ancient ruins of Nora and Tharros, Bosa Marina, Alghero (the most charming spot), Castelsardo, and La Maddalena. Generally speaking, the north coast is the most frequented, the south coast offers the best beaches, and the west coast is still largely pristine and wild.

Day 1: Genoa - Olbia Boarding the ferry and overnight stay

2nd day: Olbia - Cala Gonone

In the morning we disembark in Olbia and immediately set off in search of the first beach to recover from the journey. A few kilometers and here we are in San Teodoro, where there are so many wonderful beaches. We opt for those of Tahiti and Isuledda. Tahiti really recalls Polynesia, with incredible shades and, in the background, dense vegetation coming right down to the sea. Isuledda will remain one of the most beautiful in Sardinia, with a deep blue sea and a splendid view of Tavolara. Also not to be missed is La Cinta, the longest beach in San Teodoro, about 3 km, with colors shifting from green to blue and very fine sand. In the late afternoon we arrive in Cala Gonone, with accommodation at the Palmasera.

3rd- 8th day: Cala Gonone - Gulf of Orosei

The Palmasera is one of the few resorts that maintain an excellent quality-price ratio, besides being in one of the most characteristic areas of the island: from Cala Gonone, in fact, the Gulf of Orosei park begins, with about 60 km of coastline reachable only by sea, with coves and beaches that remain among the most fascinating in the Mediterranean. From the center of Orosei, a motorboat service departs that lets you visit the entire coast, with flexible schedules allowing several stops at the various beaches. The places you absolutely must not miss are: Cala Luna: Described by many as the most beautiful in the Mediterranean, it's a concentrate of beauty; on the beach several caves open up, while behind it a long green valley unfolds, surrounded by pink oleanders and a characteristic stream. Cala Mariolu: My favorite.

There's no sand, only small white marble pebbles that give the water an inimitable transparency. It's best to stop there in the morning, because in the afternoon the beach is in the shade. Grotta del Bue Marino: Inside you discover an extraordinary spectacle: the successive chambers offer multiple landscapes. Of great beauty are the concretions, the stalactites and stalagmites that are mirrored in the numerous little lakes. Cala Gonone is also located a short distance from one of the most characteristic inland areas of Sardinia: the Barbagia. In a single day you can take a pleasant excursion that touches some typical spots: the Su Cologone spring, where, immersed in pristine nature surrounded by greenery, a spring gushes forth forming a crystal-clear little lake.

Nearby you can also taste typical Sardinian cuisine, such as suckling pig or grilled wild boar, at the beautiful hotel-restaurant Su Cologone. Continuing on, you reach Orgosolo: a spectacular natural landscape dominated by Supramonte, costumes of great charm, and fragments of the oldest history of the Barbagia, represented by the typical murals found practically everywhere. Nearby you can also admire the nuragic village of Serra Orrios. Watch out for the shepherd dogs, which attack without being provoked and left me an unforgettable souvenir on my calf. On the way back, near Dorgali, you should visit the Ispinigoli cave, where the tallest stalagmite in Europe is found. Finally, don't miss the lovely town of Orosei, both its historic center and the beautiful beaches along its shoreline, such as Cala Ginepro and Liberotto.

9th day: Cala Gonone - Villasimius

The first part of the route is incredible: in about 60 km you come across only a few houses, and the state road climbs up the typical Sardinian hills, far from the sea. The first notable place you come to is Arbatax, where you can admire the famous red rocks, which almost look sculpted. Continuing on, you reach the long beaches of Costa Rei, where a stop at Cala Pira is recommended — a beautiful little inlet with very fine sand, turquoise water, and Mediterranean vegetation. On the south coast you find the most spectacular and deserted beaches on the island: the road to reach Villasimius is spectacular, with breathtaking views of the splendid sea and the island of Serpentara. In Villasimius there's simply an embarrassment of riches: within a few kilometers you can find beaches for all tastes, depending on wind direction and tides.

The best are: Punta Molentis on the road to Costa Rei, and Porto Giunco, directly connected with the beach of Simius. At the water's edge the sand is pink and the water has an extraordinary transparency. If instead the mistral is blowing, the only sheltered beach is Porto Sa Ruxi.

10th day: Villasimius - Teulada

We reluctantly leave this beautiful area to set off westward: first stop Cagliari, an unmissable destination if you're passing through this area. A quick stop to visit the historic center, with the Cathedral and the Castle, as well as the lovely, lively adjacent streets. Continuing on to Nora, an important archaeological area in a splendid position by the sea; it's a Punic center and Roman city with the most interesting Roman theater in Sardinia. We set off again in search of more splendid beaches, and when it comes to beaches you simply can't skip stopping at Chia, perhaps the best sea you can find in Sardinia, absolutely. Here too the choice of beaches is endless: we stopped at Cala Cipolla, which forms a small natural pool, then a stop at the beach of Su Giudeo, one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean: very long, very light sand, and a dream sea.

Around it, dunes up to 20 m high. The only downside: an extremely strong wind that partially ruins the paradise.

Day 11: Teulada - Arborea

This is an unbelievable travel day to say the least: we decide to follow the west coast, even though the road isn't marked on the maps: we start climbing up a mountain, going up almost to 1000 metres on a dirt road, and every now and then we even have to ford some streams. Finally the descent begins, but it took us practically the whole morning to cover about a hundred km. Before this adventure we stop at Cala Domestica, which from the photos looks truly spectacular: and indeed it must certainly be, given its position, but we have the bad luck of arriving after a storm, so the water is rather dirty. This is the wildest area of the island, characterised by the almost total absence of hotels and infrastructure. From the coast, near Nebida, you can also admire a splendid sea stack, called Pan di Zucchero.

Once the dirt stretch is over, you quickly reach Buggerru, then you start climbing into the mountains again, when a detour leads back along the coast until you reach the long beach of Piscinas, famous because you can see the highest sand dunes still moving in Europe: the effect is like the Sahara desert. After a long, exhausting day we finally reach Arborea, a place not to be recommended because it is completely infested with mosquitoes.

Day 12: Arborea - Alghero

Departure heading north, with the first stop at the archaeological area of Tharros, which features a group of very interesting buildings that blend different architectural influences: Roman, Punic, Phoenician and Greek. The morning continues with a visit to the typical medieval village of Bosa, dominated by the Malaspina castle and the only river town on the island. The settlement of Bosa has developed around the intertwining of alleys and arcades of the very colourful historic centre. In the afternoon we arrive in Alghero, the most characteristic place in all of Sardinia. Its historic centre, with the ancient Aragonese palaces, the walls and towers, and then the beaches, the caves, the cliffs and the nightlife, make Alghero a unique city.

Day 13: Alghero - Castelsardo

We reach the characteristic Capo Caccia, where from the top begins the suggestive "Escala del Cabirol", over 600 steps sheer above the sea and carved into the rock that lead to the unmissable Neptune's Grotto. We continue to Stintino where one of the most famous beaches awaits us (also, for this reason, among the most crowded): La Pelosa. White, very fine sand, inimitable colours and shades. Towards evening we continue to Castelsardo, and after dinner we visit the town, an ancient medieval village with the rock, the Medieval castle, the Cathedral and the very narrow little streets.

Day 14: Castelsardo - Santa Teresa di Gallura

Stop at the most famous beach of Costa Paradiso: after leaving the car we continue along a characteristic half-way-up path, then we reach the beautiful beach of Li Cossi. We continue to Santa Teresa di Gallura, a beautiful place with superb beaches. The most characteristic are: the beach of the Two Seas at Capo Testa, where a narrow strip of land cuts a beautiful inlet in two, and the beach of Marmorata, of extraordinary clearness.

Day 15: La Maddalena Archipelago

A whole day at La Maddalena: boarding at Palau, arrival at La Maddelana where we rent a scooter to tour the island. First stop at Garibaldi's House at Caprera, then some sea at the beaches of Cala Coticcio, a splendid and famous inlet covered with junipers almost down to the beach, and Cala Lunga, very spectacular seen from above. After wandering a bit around the lively town centre, the island's capital, we return to Palau for the night.

Day 15: Palau - Olbia

Last day on the island, and during the transfer to the port of Olbia we take the opportunity to visit the famous Costa Smeralda, with the luxurious resorts of Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo, alternating with a stop at Liscia Ruja beach. The traffic in this area is rather heavy and the beautiful, isolated Sardinian spots are already a distant memory.