The Lake of the Pile Dwellings - A Weekend on Lake Ledro

A romantic weekend by the lake to celebrate my birthday is just what's needed. And if the lake in question is the enchanting Lake Ledro, I'd say it's truly the best. We have already been to Lake Ledro twice before in past years. We know the resorts overlooking the lake and the best hotels well. We can't go wrong, so we book the hotel we liked so much last time, Hotel San Carlo in Molina di Ledro, and manage to snap up the last free room on that scorching August weekend.

7 August 2020 - MOLINA DI LEDRO These are the hottest days of the year and, on top of that, this weekend promises BLACK-flag traffic. We urgently need to plan a "smart" departure, however smart it can be to set off this weekend. But we are fearless, nothing stops us and nothing scares us. At 6.30 in the morning we get on our Harley Davidson with its sidecar and set off from the province of Varese, heading for Trentino. We take the A4 motorway as far as Brescia Ovest. A stop for breakfast and petrol at the last possible Autogrill, and then we leave the motorway. Here we follow the signs for Trento-Madonna di Campiglio, travelling along this decidedly scenic and little-trafficked road, already tried in the past. We skirt Lake Idro and pass through picturesque villages between the provinces of Brescia and Trento, with old houses, old gushing fountains and small watercourses.

All these elements put together make the journey, even though long, extremely pleasant, as well as a prelude to a top holiday. At the little town of Storo we leave the main road to begin the climb to the Valle di Ledro. First, though, we pass through the pleasant historic centre of Storo in the province of Trento. Storo is described thus by a popular rhyme: "cheerful and lovely, it has the mountains for a crown and the lake for a border", and I don't think there is a more fitting description for this small village, which, unfortunately, we only pass through in transit. Just past the centre, the uphill road begins, wide enough but with numerous hairpin bends, which will take us as far as Lake Ledro, the final destination of our wanderings. We tackle the climb calmly and prudently and by 11.00 we are at our destination.

From Pieve di Ledro we start to skirt the lake, even more beautiful than we remembered, until we reach our hotel in Molina di Ledro.

We have already stayed at the Hotel San Carlo last time and we couldn't wait to return. It is a panoramic hotel with rooms having no fewer than 2 balconies overlooking the water; large windows in the common areas with a 180° view over the lake and an outdoor terrace with romantic tables with a view, where you can make use of the bar and restaurant. In short: a full immersion in the lake, to the delight of our eyes. Time for a coffee and our room is ready. We rest a little to recover from the exertions of the journey and then get back on the sidecar to do a complete tour of the lake.

A few words to describe Lake Ledro: a round emerald surrounded by mountains, green at this time of year, typical of this pre-alpine area of Trentino. Oh yes... because the lake water really has this intense emerald-green colour which, in the afternoon hours, when the sun is at its strongest, becomes almost turquoise. We dine at our hotel's restaurant, on a terrace almost suspended over the lake, and wait for the arrival of my daughter Clarissa and her boyfriend Davide, who set off from home in the late afternoon, right after work. I was a little anxious about their motorbike trip, postponed compared with ours: they didn't know the road, as they had never been here, and I didn't want them to tackle the stretch with the hairpin bends in the dark of the evening. But everything goes perfectly and by 20.45 they have already arrived.

Well done! They unload their few bags at their Albergo Alpieve in Pieve di Ledro and then join us at ours for the account of the journey and to plan the following day. Clarissa and Davide are staying at a different hotel, 5 km from us, since ours was full. Their hotel isn't bad but it is 150 m from the lake and therefore less interesting than ours. Luckily it is cheap (€92.00 for a double room, breakfast not included). A farewell drink, see you tomorrow and Good Night.

8 August 2020 - MOLINA DI LEDRO AND RIVA DEL GARDA There is nothing better than waking up on your birthday admiring the lake view from your bed in the early morning, already dotted with the first canoes. The previous evening, so as not to miss even a second of the night view, we didn't even draw the curtains. At 9 we have an appointment with Clarissa and Davide to have breakfast all together at our hotel. The room has large lake-view windows and the breakfast is excellent, with Trentino cold cuts and cheeses (including the ever-present speck), croissants and a couple of cakes. Shortly afterwards we get on the motorbikes and go to Riva del Garda, 12 km from Molina di Ledro. The road, however, is, as usual, all hairpin bends and you have to proceed with caution. Riva del Garda is truly the Queen of the lakeside resorts of Garda.

It is even better than we remembered: the lovely lakeside promenade with piers and docks, the elegant squares overlooking the water, with period buildings and outdoor tables, fountains with ducks and the fascinating Rocca, set on a small artificial island, which houses the MAG (Museo Alto Garda).

We do a round of the shops, but when the temperature starts to rise we head back to Ledro. While Max and I rest at the hotel, Clarissa and Davide rent a pedal boat and go for a swim, positioning themselves right beneath the terrace of our room. How we envy them; and to think that we didn't even bring our swimsuits.

We have a snack with big "Eiscafè" with cream while waiting for the cultural moment: the visit to the Lake Ledro Pile-Dwelling Museum. You should know that, right next to our Hotel San Carlo, some pile dwellings dating back to the Bronze Age (2,200-1350 BC) stand. Here a veritable museum has been set up, where you can see the pile dwellings inside, as well as the various household items of the prehistoric period.

For the birthday dinner we have booked the best outdoor table at the hotel, in the most panoramic spot: I choose a succulent sliced beef, Clarissa some traditional spatzle (Trentino gnocchetti), while Max and Davide choose the "Piatto Ledrense", that is, an assortment of local cold cuts and cheeses. To finish, a slice of Strudel and a good white chocolate and lemon cake.

At the end, we take a short stroll in the surroundings, admiring the view of the illuminated pile dwellings, and agree to meet the next day for breakfast and the return.

9 August 2020 - RETURN After a hearty breakfast, we say goodbye to the hotel staff and get back in the saddle for the journey home. We slowly begin the descent, curve after curve, with the fresh morning air; because up there, at 600 m above sea level, it feels good and you even need a jacket. We thus arrive calmly at Storo, where I notice details of the lovely landscape that had escaped me on the way out. For example, I spot the little square of Storo with an old building adorned with geraniums, the typical Trentino fountain and, to the delight of my eyes, a lovely wash-trough full of water. Then we drive back along the long, narrow Lake Idro and, near Brescia, get back on the motorway. Unfortunately it is 11.30 in the morning and it is 38° on the motorway. I'm boiling, the journey seems endless, and I feel unwell from the excessive heat and sun. I arrive home in a pitiful state.

It will take hours in the cool to recover, and a long swim in the pool. But believe me: it was worth it. DANI, MAX, CLA AND DAVIDINO