The Bear, the Devil and the Basket: a Day in Sant'Olcese to Put Down Roots in the Ligurian Hinterland

This weekend we go to meet none other than a saint who knew how to tame a bear. And to do so, we follow instinct, the one that suggests we don't run as we do during our working periods, but take it easy, tune into the rhythms of nature and enjoy the beauty of the landscape. For this reason we choose to take the state road that through the Scrivia Valley leads to Genoa. About an hour of bends, but scenic ones: little hamlets made of brightly coloured houses, unmistakably Ligurian even when we are still in the province of Alessandria, in the area of Arquata Scrivia. The road, which runs along an ancient route that centuries ago was travelled by Ligurian and Piedmontese merchants who met to do business on the plain passing through the Capanne di Marcarolo, is immersed in the dark green of the endless woods of the valley, which offer the traveller an unforgettable spectacle.

Already in Roman times, in the 2nd century BC, the consul Aulus Postumius had a paved road built here, the Via Postumia, which linked the Ligurian Sea with the Adriatic, passing through Libarna. We thus reach Sant'Olcese, a municipality on the outskirts of Genoa known since 1146, which spreads across several hamlets in the Polcevera Valley, a few kilometres from Bolzaneto, on the route of the characteristic little Casella train that since 1929 has linked Genoa and the hills of the hinterland. And here at last we can "meet" our saint: the name of the village, which originally was called Valle Ombrosa, actually comes from that of the Norman bishop Olcese who, fleeing the barbarian invasions in his Gaul, settled here in the 5th century. In the church dedicated to him are kept the mortal remains of the saint, while on the façade a fresco tells the legend of the miracle of the bear.

The mischievous animal had long been bothering and terrorising the population, and one day it went too far: it ate an ox that was supposed to pull a cart. The one who stepped in to resolve the matter was not a hunter, however, but Saint Olcese himself, who tamed the bear, yoking it to the cart in place of the ox the beast had killed. Over the centuries of history it was more complicated "to tame" the various invaders, but also the troops of the local families who contended for this territory, precious also for its strategic position. Of the castle, which rose in the Vicomorasso hamlet and was destroyed in the 14th century during the struggles between the Guarchi, Montaldo and Adorno families, only a few traces remain.

The Forte Diamante, on the other hand, is in decidedly better condition, even if it bears the heavy marks of time; this mammoth fortress dominates Sant'Olcese from a height of 624 metres above sea level. Built between 1756 and 1758, it was one of the forts erected for the defence of Genoa, and today it is the only one situated outside the city territory. Among the sieges it managed to withstand, the Austrian one of 1800 stands out. Along the winding roads that connect the nine hamlets of the municipality there is no risk today of meeting a bear; it is easy, instead, to see cyclists: Sant'Olcese is now among the favourite destinations of hikers. Nature lovers also gladly walk the Ciaè botanical trail, linked to the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, which ends at an evocative abandoned village.

Among the many reasons why it is worth visiting Sant'Olcese there is also good food: our day indeed continues with the discovery of authentic Genoese flavours at the Agriturismo E Reixe in the San Bernardo di Torrazza hamlet. Finding it is easy: it is located along the state road, just follow the sat nav directions. It is a beautiful house immersed in greenery, on a large plot of land with various crops. Welcoming us with great kindness is the owner, Stefano Pedemonte, who after a twenty-year experience as chef of the restaurant Il Caminetto, which he himself had brought to success in the Brevenna Valley, in 2015 decided to return to his roots, "e reixe", indeed, transforming his family's house into a welcoming farm stay. Today he runs the business with his wife Benedetta, with Danilo, the other cook, and with Maurizio who, besides being a friend, is an expert baker.

Completing the close-knit staff are Federica, Benedetta's daughter-in-law, and their friend Selena. "This is the house where my grandfather was born. During my childhood we always spent our holidays here, but we stayed in that house opposite, and since the land wasn't ours, I couldn't come here to play, yet I always wanted to so much. I keep many happy memories of that period, for example when as a child I accompanied my grandfather who went around with the mule. Growing up, I began to dream of creating a B&B here, and when my mother inherited this part of the property, I decided to commit myself to this project. In the Brevenna Valley I had been happy, but after twenty years I was excited by the idea of returning to the place where I have my roots, and my choice was rewarded by the quick and very positive response from customers," Stefano recalls.

From the large outdoor area, where a lovely tricolour cat lost in its dreams also witnessed our chat, we move on to take a little tour of the farm stay. We look with admiration at the extensive vegetable gardens, the fruit trees and the thriving vineyard. "Where today you see these crops, a few years ago there was a veritable jungle," Stefano confides in us. "Even the vineyard, they had given it up for lost, it was full of brambles and in terrible condition. We cleaned everything up, restored the vineyard and now it's a marvel." We also go to see the cellar, where the post-harvest work is under way, and walking a few metres just outside the property we discover that, besides the bear legend, there is another legend here too, that of the devil's basket.

We are in the characteristic little square of the splendid church of San Bernardo, bordered by a little lane called via del Sale, because it is indeed a small stretch of the historic Via del Sale that linked the sea with the Po plain. From here we can observe Mount Tullo, which, according to legend, was born from a squabble between God and the devil. It is told that some time ago the devil had buried a little village nearby under an ugly landslide of stones and mud. This gesture made God very angry, and he ordered him to gather into a basket all the earth and stones the devil had tipped onto the mountain village, to load it on his shoulders, carry it down to the sea and throw it into the water so as to create an island for the fishermen.

When Beelzebub reached the seaward side of the Sant'Olcese valley with his load, he was struck by the beauty of the landscape, but in a moment of distraction he stumbled and tipped over the basket, thus giving birth to Mount Tullo. After this excursion within the excursion we return to base, to the beautiful restored house of the farm stay, where a dinner devoted to the flavours of the region awaits us. We settle into the large hall which in its style combines rusticity and an artistic streak: on the walls we can in fact admire an art exhibition that ideally takes us to distant lands. Onto our plates, meanwhile, come delicacies of the Ligurian hinterland, offered in a handy set menu. We start with a series of starters, all tasty and distinctive, made with almost zero-mile ingredients from the kitchen garden.

We taste herb tarts, aubergine tartare, a broccoli flan with fondue, aubergines stuffed Genoese-style, the typical cured meats of Sant'Olcese, but also the galantina, a noble variant of head cheese, that is, the soppressata, which looks almost like ham. We accompany these starters with bread made at home by Maurizio, who prepares it with long-rising sourdough, using organic stone-ground flours from the Borbera Valley. Among the farm stay's projects there is also that of sowing wheat so as to have its own flour in the future. We continue with typical borage ravioli with tuccu, made with meat from small local breeders, browned in a terracotta pot and dressed with homemade tomato paste made from tomatoes dried in the sun or in the oven.

Some of us delight in the maltagliati with truffle, but the mushroom risotto and the gnocchi made with locally grown potatoes, dressed with pesto made from the farm stay's basil and garlic, are also very popular. The second courses, as per hinterland tradition, are meat-based, such as the rabbit in a casserole with Pigato, the guinea fowl with grapes, the contre-filet cooked at low temperature or the leg of wild boar with juniper berries. By reservation, on the other hand, on Fridays you can enjoy the stockfish. Finally, even in tasting the house desserts we are presented with the chance to enjoy something typical of the area: the sacripantina, a cake from Sant'Olcese, made with an ancient recipe. We also can't resist the temptation of the milk cream with berries and the tarts with the house jams, of cherries or figs.

We are happy to have been able, in some way, to put down roots too in this beautiful territory, rich in history and culture, including gastronomic. The Agriturismo E Reixe is a place that starts from its roots to grow a great tree made not only of good things to eat, but also of cultural and artistic initiatives. Returning here will be a discovery every time, and from next season, as soon as the rooms are ready, we will also stay for holidays lasting several days.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Agriturismo E Reixe Via G. Galilei, 48 San Bernardo di Torrazza, Sant'Olcese (GE) Tel.: 338/4123682