A Miracle Among the Gentle Hills of the Upper Monferrato: a Farm-Stay Trip to Molare

Once upon a time there was a poor woman named Clarice, who lived in the 16th century. Every day she prepared food for her husband who cut wood up on the hill, but their lunch was often rather meagre. Once the woman cooked some wild herbs, but having no bread either, she put the cooked herbs in a basket and took the road towards the hill where her husband worked. When she arrived at the Rocche, the point where the real climb began, she saw a woman of extraordinary beauty and kindness who called her by name and asked her for a piece of bread. Clarice replied that she would gladly have given her some bread, but she had nothing but the cooked herbs. "Look in the basket!" the woman replied. Clarice opened the basket and found it full of still-warm bread. "Most holy Virgin!" she exclaimed, and the woman replied that she was exactly the one she was invoking.

She also told her: "Go to Molare and tell everyone that here I wish for a church in my honour. Here I will place a throne of graces". In the years that followed there were also several miraculous healings in the area. We arrive at Molare a few minutes after leaving the motorway at the Ovada toll booth. We take the road to Acqui Terme and turn left, following the signs for the sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Rocche: we chose Molare for this day trip also because we wanted to see the place of such an important Marian apparition. At the exact spot where the Virgin appeared to Clarice, a large wooden cross was erected, and later, in 1608, the first nucleus of the Sanctuary was built, subsequently enlarged in 1661 and 1867. You reach the sanctuary, surrounded by the green woods of the hills, climbing up a suggestive tree-lined road.

Once in front of the sacred building, the gaze can wander over a breathtaking landscape and you feel immersed in the serenity of unspoiled nature. The hills we admire here in Molare are part of that long mountain chain that separates Liguria from Piedmont. The two regions meet here and this mixing is noticeable both in the architecture and at the table. The houses and streets of the historic centre of Molare recall those of Liguria both in their colours and in their layout: here too we find many alleys with mysterious atmospheres, arches beneath which horses once passed, and, as in many villages of the area, there is even a fine 16th-century castle, that of the Counts Gaioli-Boidi. Molare originally had another castle, the Castrum de Molariis of the marquises of Bosco, but of the ancient castle and its famous tower, unfortunately, no trace has come down to us.

Following this lovely tour, we easily reach, right on via Santuario, our dwelling for the weekend: the Agriturismo A Modo Mio. From the moment we park next to a thriving kitchen garden, we are welcomed by a warm family atmosphere that immediately puts us at ease. After settling into our lovely rooms, called Baldacchino and Mango, both very elegant and comfortable, also equipped with wifi, we go down to have something to drink in the outdoor area, immersed among the plants and flowers. There are actually two outdoor areas, both very inviting, whether for dining outdoors or for an aperitif, and the same can be said of the fine portico, capable of accommodating a long row of tables.

These features too help to make the farm stay an ideal location for weddings and ceremonies, often celebrated here in a rustic but elegant style, where the tones of white and beige are enhanced by the colours of the surrounding nature. If we feel welcomed as family, it's no coincidence; we discover this by having a chat with the owner Alessandro, who runs the establishment together with his parents Caterina and Francesco and with his partner Federica. "The farm stay was born right in our family home, which we built in 1994, thinking from the very start of opening it to guests.

The idea became reality in 2016, the year we started with the restaurant, to which was then added the possibility of staying overnight in our two rooms, which initially served as a base for brides, but are now much in demand also by passing tourists, especially during holidays such as Christmas or New Year," Alessandro tells us. Keeping us company also comes Pesco, the "talking cat", who confirms what the owner said and with his expressive "meows" invites us to take a tour of the garden, so we can admire the fruit trees, the kitchen garden and the lovely flowers. When dinner time comes, since it is still a mild evening even if already autumnal, we sit outside, but we notice that the indoor dining room is also very beautiful and spacious, furnished with elegance and with a touch of rusticity that also recalls the area's winemaking traditions.

Most of our group chooses the tasting menu, but there is also someone who prefers to dine à la carte. We on the tasting menu start with mixed starters including cured meats and cheeses served with the house jams, a vegetable flan, some seasonal fried bites and a cold salad – which in a few days will give way to the warm seasonal soups. After this rich starter we can choose between two first-course tastings prepared with fresh homemade pasta such as tagliatelle, pappardelle or maltagliati. Some opt for the courgette and toma cheese dressing, while the "carnivores" enjoy a nice veal ragù; at other times guinea fowl or rabbit ragù is also available. We wash down these delicacies with excellent local wines including the Barbera di Alice Bel Colle, the Monferrato rosso or the Dolcetto d.o.c.g. Ovada, while among the whites we taste a dry-vinified Moscato.

We continue with exquisite meat second courses such as pork belly with honey and rosemary, but there are also those who prefer a nice braised meat. Finally, we have no choice but to give in to the sweet temptations of the house: a warm chocolate pudding with a soft centre, or a berry cheesecake that takes us back to summer. Our friends who opt for the à la carte menu start with knife-cut raw meat and vitello tonnato, moving on to first courses such as gnocchi with fondue or with peppers, anchovies and breadcrumbs. The pappardelle with game or wild boar ragù are also very popular, as are the lean ravioli, chosen especially in summer for their lightness due to the ingredients: tomatoes, ricotta, onions, pine nuts and basil. In winter, on the other hand, an unmissable dish is the agnolotti alla piemontese, with stew sauce.

Among the second courses, the duck salad also wins converts, a light and tasty alternative to the more wintry meat dishes. It always ends on a very sweet note with the Chantilly cream pastry, the white chocolate mousse, the warm zabaglione or the caprese cake with chocolate and hazelnuts, made with almond flour, also suitable for coeliacs. The next day, before leaving, we stock up on vegetable preserves and jams, so as to take home a few jars of local goodies. Between the culinary "miracles" and the legendary ones of the sanctuary's history, we are happy to have discovered such a special place, with a mystic charm and authentic flavours.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Agriturismo A Modo Mio Via Santuario, 53/A Molare (AL) Tel.: 340/0525249 Facebook: A modo mio agriturismo