HERE WHERE THE SEA SPARKLES. Sorrento, Maiori and the Castle of Ceremonies

SORRENTO

"Here where the sea sparkles And the wind blows strong On an old terrace In front of the Gulf of Surriento..." (from Caruso - Lucio Dalla, 1986)

We leave punctually from Milan Malpensa, terminal 2, with an Easy Jet flight, at 8.30. Before 10.00 we're already in Naples. The car rental point is not located inside the terminal. You have to take a crowded shuttle bus and go about 500 m away. There are the offices of the main car rental companies; you complete the paperwork and pick up the car. The car assigned to us is a Peugeot 308 Station Wagon. So we set off in the direction of Sorrento.

We make a stop for lunch at Marina di Vico Equense. We find a nice bar restaurant overlooking the small harbour and order some Neapolitan fried food looking at the sea (supplì, arancini, fried aubergines and more). Not a bad start.

Then we head towards Sorrento. Our hotel Gardenia, 3 stars, is located on Corso Italia about 500 m from the historic centre. It's a good hotel, comfortable, where everything works well. Nothing to complain about. It has just everything we need. There's also a pool which however we don't use for lack of time.

We ask the kind receptionist at the hotel for information on how to reach Marina Grande and Marina Piccola, where we intend to have dinner. She wisely advises us to go to the Villa Comunale where there is a convenient lift that takes you directly to Marina Piccola, where some restaurants are located. We follow her advice. We arrive in the lively centre of Sorrento, pretty, characteristic and animated. We admire the view in Piazza Tasso where the entrance to the renowned hotel that hosted Caruso and inspired the famous song of the same name by Lucio Dalla, Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, is also located.

We then head towards the Villa Comunale. Near it we visit the beautiful and blooming Cloister of S. Francesco which the lady at the hotel warmly recommended. It's really worth it: it's a true little gem. From the gardens of the Villa Comunale, from the top of a large balcony, you can admire from above the charming panorama of Marina Piccola. Here we find the convenient lift that allows us to reach it quickly. The lift can be used until midnight.

Right in front of the lift exit we notice the restaurant of a beach establishment, Marameo Beach Restaurant, with terraces on stilts over the sea. Here you can eat right suspended over the beautiful sea of Sorrento. So we dine at a table in the front row facing the sea, in front of a spectacular sunset that we will hardly forget. It's all so romantic.

We choose a mussel starter followed by the renowned "Cuoppo" with mixed fried fish. Then a delicious pistachio semifreddo and a coffee, which here they always serve accompanied by a glass of water. We are truly delighted by this beautiful first evening where everything went for the best. We take the lift again and after a few minutes we're back in the square, ready to return to the hotel.

MAIORI

Breakfast at the Gardenia hotel in Sorrento is superb. There's an assortment of savoury foods, pancakes and lots of sweets. Perfect for satisfying both lovers of savoury breakfasts like Max and supporters of the traditional sweet breakfast like yours truly. Before leaving Sorrento we try to reach Marina Grande by car, but it's an impossible feat, so we settle for admiring it from the balcony above.

Right after we head towards the Amalfi Coast. The panorama from the coastal road is spectacular. I think it's the most beautiful sea landscape we've ever seen. After every curve a breathtaking postcard view opens up before our eyes. The road however is scary: narrow and full of curves. When we meet buses, which unfortunately happens often, we hold our breath, cross our fingers and hope to get past each other. We would have liked to stop in Positano and Amalfi but it's impossible. There are just no parking spaces. Cars park in a line on the already narrow coastal road, forcing visitors into kilometres of walking under the sun. Not our case at all. We settle for taking photos from the lay-bys we come across near the two renowned locations.

We pass through Minori where we catch a glimpse of the famous pastry shop of Sal De Riso, the well-known pastry chef from "La Prova Del Cuoco". Unfortunately we can't park here either. So we reach Maiori, where we have booked the hotel Reginna Palace. It's a very central hotel, in the front row facing the sea and at the beginning of the city's main street, with all the shops and restaurants. The hotel is a 4-star with pleasant common areas and a large pool set in a lush tropical garden. However the rooms are small and the service leaves something to be desired. The location is however excellent and we couldn't have chosen better.

Since it's lunchtime, we go to the seafront where we find a place overlooking the beach that serves the famous sweets of Sal De Riso, Ristorante Lounge Bar Lido Eldorado. We don't waste time and sit down on the terrace. We choose a berry cheesecake, a babà and a lemon mousse from the coast. All exceptional and we understand why Sal De Riso is so appreciated.

After a bit of rest and a quick dip in the pool, we go out to visit the centre of Maiori. It's a more modern town compared to the other locations of the Amalfi Coast. However, even if less characteristic, it's very pretty and liveable. Here there are large beaches, lots of venues, beautiful views, an interesting historic centre and typical shops. It really has everything.

First we go to the pier to take some photos. Then we walk along the entire main street until we reach the Town Hall where the beautiful gardens of the Mezzacapo castle are located, with many fountains, basins, grottoes and a rose garden. A corner of Paradise that leaves us breathless. Corso Reginna is divided in two by the stream of the same name, which flows in the centre, below street level and is visible by leaning over the special balustrades.

Right after, we dedicate ourselves to shopping, visiting the various shops of typical products. We buy some cute ceramic tiles from Maiori ("Beware of the cat" and "Beware of the turtle") to give to my daughter, some coloured pasta from Gragnano and lemon sweets for the office colleagues. We then choose a place on the corso, "Dedalo" with outdoor tables to dine on the famous Pizza fritta that we so wanted to taste. Afterwards we buy some sweets, including the "bomba" at Pasticceria Napoli. Finally we head to the seafront for night panoramic photos, then return to the hotel fully satisfied with this splendid day.

SANT'ANTONIO ABATE

Breakfast is served outdoors with a view of the beautiful garden full of greenery. We then leave the hotel, driving along the remaining part of the coastal road which still treats us to many breathtaking views.

We pass the ancient village of Cetara and arrive at the very busy Vietri sul Mare. Today is Saturday and being also a public holiday, traffic is at its maximum. We then take the motorway in the direction of Naples and in no time at all we're in Sant'Antonio Abate, where we'll stay at the Grand hotel La Sonrisa (€ 98.00 for a double room with breakfast) better known as "The castle of ceremonies", where the famous Real Time TV programme is filmed. "nu matrimoni napulitan nun po capi mai chi e nat a milan..." Daniele Bianco, 2011

Finally here we are! For a long time I've wanted to come here and I've always put it off. Already turning onto the access avenue I feel excited. As soon as I cross the majestic entrance I feel like I'm in the land of toys. Everything catches my attention, especially when I recognise settings and characters seen on TV: Don Antonio's bust over here, the Boss's portrait over there and the Royal Hall over here and someone from the family passing by over there... It's about 13:00 and at the castle everyone is busy with the preparations for the numerous ceremonies hosted during the day: 2 weddings, 2 Communions, 1 Baptism and 1 Wedding Anniversary. The first guests are about to arrive. We take the opportunity to take some photos before there are too many people around.

La Sonrisa was originally a Spanish ruin that Don Antonio Polese and his partners bought and skilfully transformed into this sumptuous residence used as a hotel, restaurant and grand event venue. I don't see anything trashy or kitsch here. I only see quality marbles, stuccos, frescoes, fountains, gilded finishes that, taken together, create an extremely pleasant, luxurious as well as very cheerful environment. Moreover the staff is particularly kind, friendly, including the famous TV personalities who gladly chat with all the guests and therefore also with us. We first meet Davide, Don Antonio's trusted collaborator, and then Ferdinando the maître.

In the afternoon we witness the traditional entrance of the bride and groom, which takes place just like on TV with a parade of honour, wedding march at full blast, release of doves and the inevitable good wishes from Donna Imma, who has wisely taken up her father's legacy, replacing him in everything without changing anything.

We then return to our room for a bit of rest, considering that it's very hot and the sun is beating down hard. Our room is located in an annex next to the main building and near the outdoor tables. We get ready for dinner and, when we go out, we meet Donna Imma, always very kind, with whom we chat and take some photos. We also take photos with her husband Matteo and also catch a glimpse of her son Antonio, the little Boss. Dinner is served in a large room outside the castle and adjacent to the pool. We dine on seafood starter and mixed grill from the gulf. Here the fish is very tasty and has a real taste of the sea. We also taste the "chef's treasure chest" which is often presented on TV by Matteo for wedding banquets. It's a little parcel of crepes with pasta, ham and mushrooms inside. Very original and obviously good.

After dinner the lights come on and the atmosphere becomes magical: the pool, the fountain, the waterfall are skilfully lit; the castle façade also lights up with beautiful coloured lights. We decide to have a coffee at the beautiful blue bar, admiring the photos of the many VIPs who have stayed at the castle over the years, and here we end the evening.

RETURN

We wake up to the crowing of a rooster that is evidently located a short distance from us. Perhaps where the "pono pomellato" and the carriage horses are housed. We're curious to know where breakfast will be served and what it will be like. We're directed to a lovely room, to the left of the Royal Hall. At breakfast there are many, but really many, types of sweets and also something savoury. Satisfied, we leave the room and walk inside and outside the castle. We notice that La Sonrisa in the morning is very quiet. You can walk anywhere and take photos in complete tranquillity. If you like, you can also swim in the pool and we see that someone takes advantage of it. We sit at the bar tables and relax a bit before leaving the hotel. We can keep the room until 12. At reception we also buy some lighters with the La Sonrisa logo to give as gifts to pretty much everyone.

Then we say goodbye to Donna Imma and reluctantly leave this magnificent place with the desire to return sooner or later. From here, in no time at all you reach Naples airport, so much so that we arrive far too early. The car return procedures are also very quick. At the airport we get a bit bored. We have something typical at the bar and in a shop that sells exclusively local dairy products we buy some buffalo mozzarella, which is sealed with a sealing machine hermetically so there's no danger of it dripping on the plane. The flight is on time and we arrive on schedule at Malpensa where our daughter is waiting for us, eager to see the presents meant for her.

This long weekend, a preview of our summer holidays, has come to an end. We are decidedly satisfied and happy that everything went for the best, starting with the weather which was always splendid, like everything else.

Dani and Max To see our other travel itineraries