A wellness weekend at the Canonica di Corteranzo: a trip among the hills of Monferrato - Part II.

The other pillar of the agriturismo's history is that of the winemaking tradition, developed by the other Calvo brother since the early twentieth century and carried on by the family, which has now reached the fifth generation of winemakers with Athos, the son of Emma and Gabriele, whose example in the future could also be followed by his sisters Arianna and Gaia and his brother Iacopo. During our weekend we have the pleasure of tasting the excellent Barbera, Grignolino, Chardonnay, Freisa and Albarossa of the Tenuta Isabella, but also of admiring the ancient infernot by the historic cellar. What also drew us to this splendid establishment was its motto, which reads with a touch of irony: "You could also do nothing".

Here, though, it's a matter of a quality dolce far niente, where even simply admiring the landscape while listening to the chirping of the birds or the crickets' chirp in the evening, or watching the flight of the swallows or marvelling at that of the bats, offers an enchanting spectacle, capable of telling us stories of other times, inspired by a life on a human scale and linked to this territory of rare beauty. During our holiday we alternate hours of healthy relaxation by the pool or in the shade of the trees with a good book, with excursions to discover the wonders of the area, including pretty villages, little-trodden paths, evocative Romanesque churches, even venturing into some nearby art city.

At the end of the day it's a great pleasure to savour the taste of Monferrato during a zero-kilometre dinner based on seasonal products of the area, coming directly from the Canonica's vegetable garden or from neighbouring farms. The cuisine is traditional, winning us over with its simplicity and authenticity, as well as with the outstanding quality of the raw ingredients and the originality in the preparation of the dishes. We start with a veal roulade with sauce in the old style, which is a bit like vitello tonnato, but presented in a prettier and more distinctive way. We continue with the typical agnolotti of the Valcerrina with three roasts (veal, pork and rabbit), washing down these delights with the exquisite internationally renowned wines of the Tenuta Isabella. At the end we certainly can't resist the sweet temptation of a nice creamy bunet alla monferrina.

When our long weekend draws to a close, before taking leave of this place, capable even in a short time of giving unforgettable emotions, we don't forget to stock up on the excellent wines of the cellar. We return to the big city regenerated in body and soul and with the intention of coming back here soon, perhaps during the winter, an excellent opportunity also to enjoy some moments of wellness in the "area rinascita" of the establishment, among pampering in the wooden tub filled with water heated by the stove, under the coloured lights of the emotional showers or in the intriguing saunas — Finnish, salt and infrared. Next time too, we'll be able to do nothing, but that nothing will fill us with joys and emotions.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Agriturismo Canonica di Corteranzo Via Recinto, fraz. Corteranzo, Murisengo (AL) Tel.: 0141 693110