A trip with Pinocchio between Albenga, Alassio and Casanova Lerrone - Part I.

That Liguria is a wonderful region is well known. But is it more beautiful seen from the coast, where we can lose ourselves in the alleys among the colourful houses overlooking the sea, every now and then raising our gaze to the heights dressed in the pastel green of the olive groves, or, on the contrary, does its charm strike us more from above, where the dark green of the mountain ranges forms the backdrop to the fairy-tale villages? In doubt, we decided to spend a day enjoying a bit of both sides of this "vertical" region, going to discover some of the most renowned and fascinating localities of the Savona Riviera. Our trip begins in Albenga, a city where it is quite impossible not to walk with your nose in the air and your mouth open in amazement at the sight of so many splendid towers that sprout everywhere behind the buildings and at the end of the alleys.

Those of the Old Town Hall and of the cathedral are the three symbolic towers of the city, recalling the ancient conflicts between ecclesiastical and municipal powers. Legend has it that many centuries ago there was a serpent in the city that terrorised the inhabitants. In particular it made it impossible to travel from Albenga to Alassio, killing anyone who passed along that road. So the population held a procession praying to Saint Michael the Archangel, patron of the city, to kill the dreadful reptile. The miracle was not long in coming: during the night a sudden flash of light was seen heading from the sky towards a precise point on the road. Right there the people found the serpent killed. The cathedral of Saint Michael the Archangel, founded towards the end of the 4th century, is among the oldest buildings in the city.

The present church stands on the site of the early Christian construction and inside it preserves precious frescoes and other works. Not at all intimidated by the possible presence of a distant relative of the terrible reptile, we also visit Alassio, city of the famous Muretto, a lucky spot for lovers. On Saint Valentine's Day, in fact, couples meet under the celebrated work of the "amoreux" by Raymond Peynet, leaving their love letters in the post box placed near the sculpture of the lovers, a work by Eros Pellini. The first of the now countless coloured tiles, signed by figures from art, entertainment and sport, to be placed on the famous Muretto of Alassio was that of Ernest Hemingway.

To admire the breathtaking panorama of Alassio from above, we reach the ancient Roman panoramic road in the Santa Croce district, where the church of the same name is located, built in the 11th century by Benedictine monks from the nearby Gallinara Island. From the belvedere a wonderful view opens over the island where Saint Martin, persecuted by heretics, took refuge to live as a hermit for four years. After these lovely tours in Albenga and Alassio, we get back in the car and head for the heights to discover the less popular perspective, the one that lets us admire the panorama from up there.

The first municipality where we stop is Garlenda, a place you arrive at with the urge to jump on a horse, and you discover that besides the riding school's horses there are also those of the historic Fiat 500s that had put wings under the feet of generations of Italians in the era of the economic boom. It is in fact here that the Museo della Fiat 500 is based, named after Dante Giacosa, the famous engineer who designed many Fiat models, including the legendary Topolino. Every year, on the first weekend of July, the festival of the 500 is held in the town, with a big gathering. While Garlenda is among the favourite destinations also of golf lovers, the whole area is frequented by numerous hikers. Continuing towards Casanova Lerrone we cross a wild and fascinating landscape along a rather winding road, lined with dry stone walls and gently immersed in the olive groves.

The desire to walk in the green grows as we advance along this typically Ligurian route and it certainly won't be hard to satisfy it. We are in fact close to the Passo del Ginestro, an alpine pass that connects the provinces of Savona and Imperia, particularly fascinating in late spring when the broom is in full bloom. There are several hiking trails, including those of the CAI, that allow you to discover these splendid territories, which we can also explore on a motorbike or on fun quad bikes that can be rented. The first "hikers" who ventured into these parts were prehistoric tribes, while the agricultural centre of Casanova Lerrone was known from around the 10th century.

Reminding us of the centuries of history crossed by this charming scattered municipality, made up of colourful hamlets that stand out from the green, are the castle of Poggiolo in the locality of Bassanico and the fortification erected by the Doria family near the municipal capital, as well as the ancient ruins of some fortification and the remains of the quadrangular tower known as "di Ubaga" in the hamlet of Vellego. Each hamlet boasts its own beautiful church, and one of the most important religious buildings is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Visitazione in the hamlet of Degna. Built on the site of the Marian apparition to a deaf-mute shepherdess who, according to legend, recovered the use of speech, it preserves inside a wooden group attributed to the sculptor Anton Maria Maragliano. After wandering around so much, we decide to stop for dinner feeling quite hungry.

We chose our culinary destination after reading the reviews on Tripadvisor about the Ristorante Pinocchio located in the hamlet of Vellego. We leave the car in the convenient car park of the square in front and enter the fabulous kingdom of Pinocchio where we are welcomed with great kindness by the owner and chef Giandomenico Ermia. We settle into the dining room furnished with elegance mixed with a touch of rusticity and, while the Blue Fairy smiles down at us from the wall, we chat with the owner. "The restaurant was founded by my parents Sara and Nino in 1980. They had come from a twenty-year experience in the restaurant field and this place, from a modest country restaurant, soon became a meeting point for the whole territory up to Albenga, a city from which many regulars came, including the soldiers of the now-disused barracks.

It still happens today that some of them stop by, fondly recalling the times back then. Moreover, Pinocchio has always been a tempting point of reference also for many foreign tourists, in particular Germans, who continue to frequent the restaurant." Giandomenico is the third of three brothers, and since the end of 2002 he has been the owner who carries on the business that he had begun to love and live since he was a child. "The name Pinocchio was born right in the period when we were children: it was in fact our favourite fairy tale," recalls Giandomenico with a smile. To the delight of the children who are with us, Pinocchio is always present in various corners of the room, and smiles at us sympathetically while we start tasting the starters.