Turquoise Stones in the Genoese Hills: A Weekend in Crevari - Part II

After the walk around the farm, we set off to explore the surroundings. Following a short wooded stretch that skirts the estate, we reach a stunning viewpoint, from which we can admire not only the mountain ranges and the nearest peaks, but also the coast in all its beauty. Seen from this height, the motorway we take when heading west is a silver ribbon threading through the green, the big cargo ships bound for the port of Voltri look like toy boats on an immense sea whose blue is set off not only by the nearby headlands, but where you can even make out the coasts of Corsica. Continuing the walk, it is a pleasure to lose yourself among the steep mule tracks that lead us into an enchanted world of terraces, of glimpses of the village of Crevari immersed in flowers, as far as an old wash-house.

Between climbs and descents, the sea does not forget us: now and then it shows itself in all its splendour, so that from above we can also admire the church that, when we are on the beach, we see rising up through the thick vegetation. After this lovely outing, it is a pleasure to return to base and relax in the cool of the restaurant, furnished in an elegant rustic style, further highlighted by the many old tools hung here and there. But the dining room is also an art gallery housing the works of the well-known Genoese painter Lorenzo Massobrio, uncle of Ada, herself a painter and a graduate of the Ligustica Academy of Fine Arts in Genoa.

Here beauty goes hand in hand with goodness, and we realise this as soon as we taste the typical focaccina di Crevari that accompanies the farm's genuine cured meats, including arista, pancetta and sausage, as well as the exquisite goat's cheese made with Bianca's milk. We also taste vegetable frittatine and Ligurian-style bean meatballs. After this rich appetiser it is the turn of the homemade pasta: we delight in tagliolini dressed with a very light courgette velouté, prepared without dairy so as to satisfy anyone with intolerances too. A dusting of crispy pancetta and some grilled courgettes enrich the dish still further. We don't even forgo the Ligurian ravioli, with borage and garden herbs. In winter we will be able to find the ravioli dressed with a tasty ragù.

Another delicious first course we have the pleasure of tasting is the pesto lasagne made with the farmhouse's fresh basil, finger-licking good. Our vegetarian friend chooses as her main course the courgette parmigiana without frying, grilled instead, while the carnivores in the group share between the traditional Ligurian rabbit, chicken cacciatora, roasts and roast beef. In the cold season we should not miss the Tuscan-style porchetta either, not to mention the mushrooms offered in abundance by the area and skilfully prepared by Ada: the stuffed mushroom, also suitable for coeliacs, is one of her specialities. After these delicious “grandmother's” dishes, the homemade desserts certainly cannot be missing, such as the jam tarts, or the hazelnut cake made without flour.

We also very much like the sweet salami, and we already know that in autumn we will not miss the chance to taste the caramelised baked pears, drowned in wine. Burning off the abundant and exquisite dinners we enjoy during our holiday is not a problem: we are in the territory of the Beigua Regional Nature Park and there is certainly no shortage of opportunities for excursions both on foot and by mountain bike. Over the following days we thus discover the Passo del Faiallo, lying 1044 metres above sea level, but we also venture onto the trails between Pratorotondo and the Rifugio Argentea, as well as into the wild nature of the Val Masone as far as Forte Geremia. Enchanting places where you can admire the spectacle of nature, rediscovering an authentic and universal dimension and getting to know the wilder, truer and lesser-known soul of Liguria.

On returning to the farmhouse from our green excursions overlooking the blue, each time it feels like coming home to family: thanks to the warm hospitality of Ada and Domenico we truly feel at home, wrapped in an atmosphere full of humanity, a home we will always return to, even after the summer.

Francesca Bertha

PER INFORMAZIONI:

Azienda Agrituristica Pietre Turchine Via Superiore dell'Olba, 41. Loc. Campenave, Crevari (GE) Tel.: 331/3386470 010/6139168