A trip along the trails of the Val Curone: a holiday at an agriturismo in Gremiasco

Taking a lovely ride through the greenery, getting on a mountain bike and setting off to discover the trails nestled among the gentle hills of the Val Curone, and suddenly meeting sperm whales in the company of a few shells: this is just one of the unforgettable and thrilling experiences that can happen to us when visiting Gremiasco, a historic municipality located near the border between Piedmont and Lombardy. The village is in fact known, among other things, for its archaeological site in the Guardamonte area, where the memory of the times when this area was submerged by the sea is more than tangible, thanks to the presence of a considerable number of fossil finds, but also of various terracotta artefacts bearing witness to very ancient human settlements in the territory.

From prehistory our trip continues into the Middle Ages, reaching the historic centre where the castle of the Malaspina family stands. Anyone who were to point out that in reality there are two castles must not be accused of having raised his elbow too much: indeed, originally the manors were two, one of which, the one erected in the twelfth century by the noble Gremiasco family, was later used as a rectory. The castle with a square plan and decorated with Ghibelline merlons is very well preserved. Over the centuries it also served as a courthouse and as an occasional residence of the prince. Bearing witness to times gone by is also the baroque parish church dedicated to Santa Maria Nascente, built in 1695, in a period particularly prosperous for the village thanks to Lombard-Ligurian trade.

The religious building stands on the site of an ancient pieve, part of which has survived and is visible on the right side of the current apse. It is a construction in worked stone among the oldest in the Val Curone, flanked by the Romanesque tower, which during the eighteenth century was doubled in height with the addition of a bell tower, also in baroque style. After this lovely journey through history, we return to base, to our home for this long weekend: the Agriturismo Cascina Malvista. Located a few minutes' drive from the historic centre, the agriturismo is an oasis of peace immersed in unspoilt nature. Surrounded by fields and woods, the old stone farmhouse, recently restored with great attention to detail, welcomes us in its three rooms with en-suite bathrooms, one of which is also suitable for disabled guests.

From the windows of the bright rooms, furnished with style and dressed in light colours, we can admire the breathtaking view over the hills. In the large breakfast room with ancient exposed beams and on the spacious, cool terrace that plunges into the greenery, we can relax sipping drinks, chatting or reading a good book. Welcoming us with great kindness are Mrs Maria Angela Traverso and her husband Claudio Tani, the owners who, after a thirty-year experience of rabbit farming, an activity they still carry on today, decided to meet the growing need of tourists and hikers visiting the Val Curone to find comfortable accommodation in contact with nature. "This property was a stable with a hayloft. We restored it keeping the original stones and using recycled materials as much as possible," Mrs Maria Angela tells us.

The children who are with us are also delighted: this is not only thanks to the games and equipment set up in the courtyard, but also to a large array of very sweet rabbits in the farm set among the fruit trees. "We breed native Piedmontese breeds, including the Carmagnola. Our rural-production rabbits are reared naturally, respecting animal welfare. They are fed hay and straw produced by us, they grow slowly and are not subjected to any stress, not even to encourage their reproduction. All this guarantees meat of superior organoleptic quality and absolutely genuine. We sell both live animals, for breeding, weaned, and also meat. Our products, both the meat ready for the kitchen and the fruit, vegetables and wild herbs, are also on sale at our daughter's shop in Novi Ligure, at A Vegia Caseina, in via Mazzini," the owners explain.

Our days pass between regenerating walks and trips to discover both the natural beauties of the territory and its historical and artistic heritage, which we can also admire in San Sebastiano Curone and Varzi, both towns of great charm located just a few minutes away. We alternate moments of absolute idleness with sporting bursts: not only mountain biking and trekking, but also golf, thanks to the nearby Momperone golf course. How do we find the energy for all this? Easy: it's thanks to the rich and exquisite breakfast with which our days begin at the agriturismo. The table of the characteristic breakfast room welcomes us every morning laden with good things created with passion and skill by Mrs Maria Angela: homemade sweets, cakes made with the agriturismo's jams and with the organic flour from a mill in Volpedo.

Those who prefer savoury can enjoy the excellent local salami accompanied by homemade bread with sourdough and organic flour, perhaps with the addition of a few walnuts, again from the estate. Centuries ago Gremiasco was an important landmark on the Salt Road, the trade route that connected the Po Plain with Liguria. Today the village is still an important destination, but on the road of quiet and nature: we will gladly travel it again in the future.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Agriturismo Malvista Cascina Malvista, 1 Gremiasco (AL) Tel.: 0131/787275 349/1271665 A Vegia Caseina Frutta, verdura, carni di coniglio Via Mazzini, 21 Novi Ligure (AL) Tel.: 349/8390588