A day out with Leonardo among art, history and good food: a day in Vigevano

A journey into the Renaissance, in the footsteps of Leonardo da Vinci and amid the atmosphere of Ludovico il Moro's Sforza court: this is the exciting and unique experience we had during our trip to Vigevano. This jewel of a town, set within the Ticino Park, lies about thirty kilometres from both Milan and Pavia, but can be reached in a little over an hour from the western Ligurian coast too. Such a short drive is enough to land you in a world often known only through films or history books. And here history is breathed in deeply: Ludovico il Moro, Duke of Milan, was born in Vigevano itself, in the same year, 1452, in which Leonardo da Vinci was born in Tuscany.

Indeed Leonardo was one of the most famous travellers who reached Vigevano over the centuries: he was about thirty when he presented himself to Ludovico, and from that meeting between the genius and the great duke sprang a fruitful collaboration that led Leonardo to create, among other things, the frescoes in the Castello Sforzesco in Milan. As we begin our Renaissance stroll in Vigevano, a lady passionate about local history, with whom we exchange a few words in front of the splendid church of San Francesco, tells us that it was precisely during a land survey in the countryside around Vigevano that Leonardo noticed the potential that the steps, here and there in the ground, could have for irrigation and for reclaiming the marshes.

We reach Piazza Ducale on foot, one of the most fabulous squares in the world: neither words nor photos do justice to the beauty of this place, you really have to see it in person. It was built at the wish of Ludovico il Moro starting in the very year in which Christopher Columbus discovered America, 1492. The Cathedral, like a sacred goal to be reached after metaphorically crossing several centuries of history, welcomes the passers-by who arrive there by walking along the atmospheric arcades that stretch along the sides of the square. Among the historic buildings to visit in Vigevano the Castello Sforzesco certainly can't be missed: an architectural complex shielded from prying eyes, of which many people notice only some stretches of the walls and the splendid Torre del Bramante, a full 75 metres high, set at the highest point of the town and clearly visible from Piazza Ducale too.

The tower dates back to 1198 and was completed by Bramante three hundred years later, while the Baroque cupola that replaced the original conical spire was added in the seventeenth century. After this generous tour through beauty, a little hunger leads us to a place where aesthetics and elegance go hand in hand with kindness and with the most authentic and refined expression of culinary art: the Ristorante Class, on Via Mondetti, next to the well-known sports centre of which it forms part. We leave the car in the convenient car park and here we are, in a veritable oasis, a garden of great charm that in the warm season also offers the chance to cool off in the pool or sip an aperitif sitting on the comfortable sofas of the outdoor area surrounded by greenery.

Once inside, a wonderful open space with an original polygonal shape divided into two very spacious rooms, ideal also for ceremonies, events and private parties, we are enveloped in a refined atmosphere of great style. The exposed light-wood beams, the skilfully balanced lighting, the discreet yet invigorating hints of light green recurring in the accessories, are just a few of the many details looked after with the greatest care that form the backdrop to top-level cuisine, overseen by chef Dario Spagnuolo, author of the book "Barbecue", published by Guido Tommasi editore. "My passion for cooking was passed on to me by my mother, and later I perfected my skills working in restaurants already during my years at hotel school. I graduated from the "Etoile" culinary arts school in Chioggia, and since 2004 I have offered creative, refined cuisine.

In this restaurant-pizzeria, which I have been running for a year and a half, we stand out with a broad menu that is mainly fish-based and also includes many dishes of fresh pasta made in-house, as well as desserts and pizzas prepared with sourdough, using a particular flour. The essential thing for us is the raw ingredients, rigorously of the finest quality," explains the chef, who runs the restaurant together with Giuseppe Cappadonia and Francesco, impeccable colleagues at putting guests at ease in the dining room.

"The melody is what the palate encounters when every single element blends and marries with another ingredient, bringing together food, passion, setting, aromas and colours": this is Dario Spagnuolo's ars poetica, and as soon as we taste his creations we realise that it is not just a philosophy but a modus operandi capable of bringing to the table specialities that combine traditional flavours with creative imagination in a result that fully satisfies the senses. We start with a starter that is a true celebration of freshness and flavour: puntarelle, Cantabrian anchovies and burratina from Andria. In all honesty, we have never eaten anchovies so tasty. Among the exquisite starters, all spectacular to look at as well, just like the other dishes, we also taste the crudité, including tuna, salmon, sea bass, oysters, langoustines and Sicilian red prawns.

Some of our friends choose the langoustines marinated with lardo di Colonnata and lime extra-virgin olive oil, but the Class-style fish starter and the pan of baby squid, artichokes, almonds and confit cherry tomatoes are much loved too. We continue with delicious first courses made with fresh pasta, including tortelli of potato and toma, crunchy vegetables and hazelnuts, and the fluffy ricotta ones with red prawns and fresh porcini. We are also very fond of the monkfish parcels in a stew of shelled lobster and the Carnaroli creamed with taleggio with a Chianti pear reduction. Part of our group can't resist the excellent pizzas, rich in fibre, protein and minerals thanks to a heritage flour with a greater proportion of bran and to sourdough.

A laborious preparation requiring patience and experience, but one that repays you with an excellent, healthy product, available in a huge range of flavours, both the classics and some special, imaginative ones, such as the pizza Class, with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, Taggiasca olives, octopus and onion, or the Norwegian, with mozzarella, cream, salmon and rocket. For lovers of adventure the Terminator pizza, with tomato, mozzarella, sausage, onion and peppers, is irresistible. Then we taste some exquisite fish dishes such as the tuna variation with tartare, sashimi, tataki, braised vegetables and basmati rice, or the fish trio, made up of grilled tuna and sea bream, fried calamari and julienned courgettes. Some of us can't resist the rich Class-style grilled platter, but the cheese selection "La casera di Eros", served with mostardas and jams, is delicious too.

Our dinner ends on a very sweet note thanks to the fabulous homemade desserts, including a tempting cheesecake with fresh fruit. Visiting an extraordinary town like Vigevano is a great pleasure: you breathe an atmosphere charged with art and creativity, certainly capable of improving your life. That may be another reason why we won't be long in coming back.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Class Via Mondetti, 15 Vigevano (PV) Tel.: 0381/75108