The Charm of an Old Village on the Riviera dei Fiori: A Weekend in Imperia - Part II

After this fine tour of the centre of Imperia, we move to what will be our home for this weekend, at the Casa Vacanze Le Rose, located in the immediate hinterland just seven kilometres from the sea. We are in a true oasis immersed in greenery: the house is embraced by centuries-old olive trees and rows of Vermentino vines. In the villa there are three apartments, of 5, 7 and 3 beds respectively, furnished with fine taste and rustic charm, and each bears the name of a flower or a tree, among mimosa, roses and orange. We can rest both on the terrace and in the garden in the relaxation area equipped with a parasol and chairs for sunbathing, but also with an exercise bike and a treadmill for those who wish to work out a little. Thanks to the free wifi, perfectly working even near the pool, we do not even have to wait to post our inevitable holiday selfies.

Photos which, besides us, also portray some likeable little animals that immediately win over the children. Ducks, hens and little goats that wave hello as we take pictures and that, during a short educational farm trail, "teach" the little ones a series of curiosities linked to country life. As evening falls the farmyard animals go off to bed and we return to Porto Maurizio to have dinner. To the bustle of the seafront we prefer a quieter and more sheltered place: leaving the car in a car park along the Aurelia, a few steps are enough to reach the Ristorante La Foce – Non solo vino, located on via Bartolomeo Bossi, a narrow and characteristic street. Parking is not allowed on the street, but despite this our disabled friend has no difficulty: the restaurant in fact has a couple of parking spaces available for the disabled.

We sit inside without missing the outdoor tables: we are sheltered from mosquitoes and from the bustle, and pleasantly cool air is guaranteed not only by the air conditioning, but also by the characteristics of the old building, equipped with very thick walls. Welcoming us with great kindness are Mrs Maria Teresa, Mr Pier Giorgio and their son Christian, the owners who have run the place with genuine passion for many years. Chatting with them, we discover that the building not only seems, but is truly very old and has a curious history. "This condominium is the largest in Imperia, it dates back to 1400 and it is called Granatin, because once the grenadiers were lodged here. Later it became a craft site and was used as a storage warehouse for example of olive oil. At the entrance there is still a trapdoor that in the past served to extinguish the quicklime that arrived by sea.

On the floor above, on the other hand, there were the stables," they tell us. Stables on the first floor? Well yes, and there is even a mule track inside the building: today it is a bright landing decorated with flowers and pictures, but some time ago it was the mules that went up and down those comfortable, gently sloping stairs. It is not only the building that now has a certain historical value, but also the restaurant itself. "This place was born in 1999 as Enobruschetteria della Foce and, as the name said, we served cured meats, cheeses and desserts together with over 350 labels of strictly Italian wines from all regions. In that period we also ran the Osteria del Vecchio Forno in the hinterland, which we had managed since 1989 and which was mentioned in several important guides.

In 2001 we decided to combine our skills and convert to a complete restaurant service, mainly Ligurian and a little revisited," the owners recall. The change also concerned the name, which became "La Foce – non solo vino". The wine list is still very rich and off-menu wines also arrive at the table, always very good wines, from small producers who often offer real gems. Among these is also the Vermentino produced with the owners' own grapes, but besides wine, the Rigardo family also signs an excellent oil of their own production. Our dinner in the name of the flavours of the territory, enhanced thanks to a constant search for the best ingredients, begins with the Tris of the day: spiced and smoked bresaola with burrata, tuna tartare with oranges and the typical brandacujun. The components of the tris of the day vary very often according to the market and inspiration.

The attention to quality here is combined with respect for the particular needs of the diners: on the menu, next to each dish, all the ingredients that may contain allergens are indicated and specialities suitable for coeliacs and those suffering from intolerances are available. After these exquisite starters we taste two authentic gems of the restaurant: the calamarata and the tagliolini kneaded with lavender flowers with a cream of goat's cheese and trombetta courgettes. Among the dishes we taste a very good sea bass strudel with crunchy vegetables, while the "carnivore" friends delight in a beef fillet with dried fruit. To conclude, we can only give in to the sweet temptations of the house desserts, including a fabulous meringue cake with hazelnut Chantilly cream, prepared with the hazelnut cream from a small Piedmontese producer: it is a particularly light and fresh dessert.

We also taste the parfait with a scent of whisky and coffee cream, and we cannot even resist the peach trifle, made with discs of sponge cake flavoured with Alchermes liqueur, and filled with a custard with diced peaches and finally covered with flambéed Swiss meringue. The result is a very fresh dessert and very pleasant to enjoy in summer. When, after a few days spent between regenerating outings in the midst of nature and long hours spent at the sea, the moment comes to set off again for the big city, we do not forget to stock up on the good Vermentino and the olive oil of the Rigardo family. We are certain that those bottles contain not only the rays of the riviera's sun, but also the essence of the love for nature, necessary to produce truly good wine and oil.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante La Foce... non solo vino Via Bartolomeo Bossi, 44 Tel.: 0183/651523