A Region Shaped Like a Grape Cluster: a Trip to Broni

A historic region known for its gentle hills covered with endless rows of vineyards and for the excellent wines of its cellars, whose winemaking vocation is reflected even in its geographical shape, like a bunch of grapes: here we are in the Oltrepò Pavese, officially born in 1164, when the Emperor Frederick I granted the city of Pavia the right to appoint consuls in the surrounding towns.

Our day out in Broni is a bit like tasting a berry from that fine bunch of fresh, sweet grapes whose flavour recalls stories of times gone by. If today the town and its surroundings are among the favourite destinations of many hikers who come here from Milan and other cities, the wheels of their mountain bikes travel roads and paths first worn centuries ago both by merchants carrying their goods along the Salt Road, and by numerous pilgrims walking the Via Francigena.

One of those pilgrims was the young prince Saint Contardo d'Este, venerated as the patron saint of Broni, the town where he died in 1249. Many legends are linked to the saint's name, starting with his family ties: he is thought to have been the brother of Beatrice II d'Este, but some sources cast doubt on this. What is known for certain, however, is that the religious passed through Broni on his way to Santiago de Compostela, which he probably intended to reach by sailing from Liguria. Having reached a hill near the town, he stopped to rest, but was struck by an illness and, while his companions continued their journey, he was forced to stay. He was given hospitality by a poor farmer, and it was in that man's house that the Lord called the poor pilgrim to himself.

At the moment he passed away, the town's bells began to ring by themselves and fell silent only some time later, when people had realised the miracle, which was only the first in a long series. In the following years, several people were miraculously healed near the saint's tomb and once his presence is even said to have prevented a possessed person from entering the town.

Although Saint Contardo had not managed to reach Santiago de Compostela, today his pilgrimage is metaphorically completed by the people who climb the hill dedicated to him, at the top of which stands an ancient chapel. To get there, one follows an evocative artistic Stations of the Cross of fifteen stations, created by the Pavia sculptor Angelo Grilli.

Before reaching the historic centre, we also make a detour to Cigognola, the nearby village known for its fine thirteenth-century castle, of which the spectacular square tower remains, probably remodelled during the nineteenth century, towering over the hill.

During our walk in the heart of Broni we visit the splendid basilica of San Pietro Apostolo, built in 1547, which preserves inside numerous precious works of art, including the Arca di San Contardo, the work of the Milanese carver Turcazzano of 1668, depicting the various phases of the saint's life. In the centre we also admire several historic buildings, including Palazzo Arienti, seat of the Town Hall, and Villa Nuova Italia, as well as other beautiful churches, including the Madonna del Rio Frate.

We stay in the heart of the historic centre for dinner too, choosing a historic establishment: the Locanda Bedo, located in via Mazzini. Settling into the spacious, characterful room warmed by a large fireplace, forgetting the greyness of the gloomy weather takes no time at all. Helping to warm our hearts, too, is the sign “White and black truffle” that stands out on the little board resting on the fireplace, but above all the warm welcome of the owners, Amelia and Gino, sister and brother who run this historic establishment with great care and passion.

“In this place there has been a trattoria with an inn for at least a hundred years. The name Bedo comes from the stream of the same name that once flowed right here in front and that was covered over some time ago,” the owners explain as we begin to taste a rich and tasty starter made with genuine, top-quality ingredients. We begin with a fine board of cured meats aged in the cellar, made especially for the Locanda using artisan methods and so good that there are people who come back regularly just to eat them: in fact, unlike several other dishes that change from time to time, following partly the seasons and partly the chef's inspiration, these delicious cured meats are never missing. We accompany them with an original pickled vegetable mix prepared in-house, made up of both sweet-and-sour and acidic vegetables, with the addition of tuna.

Next, we taste the typical Milanese mondeghili with a light mustard sauce. These are special meatballs made with boiled meat, sausage and liver mortadella. We also taste rustic artichokes, as well as terrines and moulds of porcini mushrooms and artichokes served with a cheese fondue.

We continue with exquisite first courses prepared with fresh homemade pasta, including braised-beef ravioli with braised-beef sauce, also available with mushroom ragù, caramelle with porcini ragù, but also excellent with the classic butter and sage dressing. We also very much like the fresh pappardelle with duck ragù, and the tagliatelle dressed with pheasant or wild boar ragù are also a great success. Some of us instead choose garganelli with gorgonzola and pears, and the green gnocchetti with speck also win enthusiastic converts.

We wash down these good things with excellent Oltrepò Pavese wines, including Bonarda, Barbera, Buttafuoco, local Cabernet Sauvignon, still Pinot, Riesling, as well as various fine still red wines. Our friends, however, opt for very fragrant homemade infusions of forest fruits, liquorice, nocino and genepì.

Among the main dishes we cannot resist a magnificent veal ossobuco in gremolada, served with polenta, but also available as a single dish with Milanese yellow risotto. Among the other main courses we very much like the “dressed” Milanese cutlet, that is served with cherry tomatoes and rocket, the braised beef with polenta, the tripe, but also the salmì of hare, wild boar and deer. Some of our friends opt for snails bourguignonne, and among the dishes we will certainly come back for in future there are also the braised beef in crust, slightly revisited, made with beer and served in a cocotte with the crust, and the mixed boiled meats, a typical Christmas speciality, but also available during the autumn-winter period.

Our visit ends in great sweetness thanks to the homemade desserts, including a tasty almond cake much in demand all year round, a particular tiramisù, served in single portions with zabaglione cream and amaretti, the tarte tatin with ice cream, a very good and light pear and chocolate cake, but also a cream ice cream with warm forest fruits.

After this lovely day we are certain to return soon in the footsteps of the pilgrims to indulge in more than one pleasant sin of gluttony, and next time we might even spend a whole weekend in Broni, staying in the comfortable rooms of the Locanda.

Francesca Bertha FOR INFORMATION:

Locanda Bedo Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 27 Tel.: 0385/51616