Medieval charm and good food among the hills of Oltrepò: a Sunday in Varzi

While travelling towards Varzi, the mind easily flies back many centuries, when on the road linking the Staffora Valley to the sea, instead of lorries there were mules laden with salt. From Varzi, in fact, given its strategic position on the border between three regions, passed the famous Lombard Salt Road, whose trade stimulated the town's development. In more recent times, on the other hand, until a few decades ago, we could have reached this beautiful and picturesque town aboard a little train, which at the time linked the Staffora valley with Voghera. Known since 993, and situated on a territory inhabited since prehistoric times, today Varzi is the ideal destination for 'slow' tourism, which appreciates the many historical and artistic testimonies of the place, together with the beauty of the landscape of the Oltrepò Pavese.

Arriving in the town, you are enveloped by the charm of its medieval atmospheres: the towers, the castle and the walls that we admire today were built in the 13th century on the orders of the Marquis Azzolino, progenitor of the Varzi line of the Malaspina family, who long ruled these lands. Varzi became one of the main jurisdictions of the Oltrepò and its centre was full of offices, shops and warehouses, but not only: there was also 'room' for a witch or two and the mysteries connected with them. Indeed, one of the first buildings we visit is the castle, in whose sturdy tower, called 'of the Witches', a large group of people accused of witchcraft was locked up in 1460, later burned in the public square. But mysteries and legends also surround the religious life of the town, thanks precisely to its patron saint George.

In the parish church are kept the relics of the arm and right hand of the saint, brought to the town between 1473 and 1479. It is said that a thief who tried to steal the relic once had his arm cut off. And not only that: some time ago, on the church square, there was an enormous horse chestnut tree, called in various ways: the tree of the witches, of the devil, but also of the thief of the relic of St George, because it seems that the rogue ran around the chestnut tree trying to get away with it after the theft, but was caught right there. Later the tree fell to the ground, uprooted. Linked, on the other hand, to the nearby village of Ponte Nizza is the figure of Frate Ave Maria, a religious man who was born in 1900 and became a pious hermit after being blinded in an accident when he was small.

His hermitage of Sant'Alberto di Butrio is one of the tourist and religious attractions of the area. During our walk we also visit the church of the Cappuccini, already existing in 702 AD and known as the ancient parish church of San Germano, built in Romanesque style with Gothic elements. We also admire the Chiesa dei Rossi, whose bell tower acts as a 'lighthouse' for the people of Varzi, and moving from the old town to the hamlet of Cella, about ten kilometres away, we visit the suggestive Tempio della Fraternità (Temple of Fraternity), situated at an altitude of 700 metres and erected by the military chaplain Adamo Accosa, a Second World War veteran, to convey a message of peace, using stones from the ruins of the world conflict.

The church is liturgically furnished with numerous objects that recall armed conflicts, transforming the instruments of destruction and death into symbols and reminders of life. Besides its historical and architectural riches, Varzi is also known for its delicacies, some particularly renowned, such as the salame di Varzi and the almond cake. After this lovely tour through the town's history, our day continues at the table, at the Ristorante Antico Varzi, where we decide to stop for lunch. The historic family-run establishment is in via Ponte dei Sospiri, just outside the old town, in a splendid position immersed in greenery and flowers. We leave the car in the large car park and, once inside, we are welcomed with great kindness by Mrs Lidia, the owner, who runs the restaurant together with her daughters.

Given the fine weather, we sit in the garden, also equipped with games for children, but the beauty of the large, elegant indoor rooms, also ideal for parties, ceremonies and banquets, does not escape us either. 'On 1 July 2014 it was a full twenty-six years since our family had started this restaurant. But within these walls there was already a trattoria at the beginning of the twentieth century; in the village they say they used to make schitte. Later, about 50-60 years ago, the dance venue Saint Tropez was instead located here,' the owners recall the past, also showing us a period photo of the building hanging on the wall. Tradition and seasonality are the cornerstones of the restaurant's culinary philosophy, whose menu changes very often so as to be able to offer dishes always prepared with fresh, zero-mile ingredients.

Our Sunday lunch begins with a rich starter of local cold cuts, including the famous and exquisite salame di Varzi, as well as pancetta and coppa, to which in autumn cotechino is also added, all served with gnocco fritto. We also taste the house hot starters, including the courgette tart, the aubergine parmigiana, the truffle vol-au-vent and the mushroom flan. The menu always includes two first courses and two second courses, and this time we enjoy an excellent mushroom and salami risotto and the braised ravioli. On the menu, which changes every Sunday, you can also find truffle risotto, pisarei e fasò, malfatti, crespelle, truffle pinwheels, and in autumn tagliatelle with wild boar sauce. We wash down these treats with excellent Oltrepò wines including Bonarda and Pinot Nero, but we also taste some Piacenza labels such as Gutturnio, Trebbiano and Ortrugo.

We continue with baked coppa with mushrooms, while our friends choose the baked stuffed veal rump. In the winter period you can also find stockfish alla varzese and wild boar with polenta, as well as stewed snails. The rich array of dishes prepared by the restaurant also includes polenta with cod, braised beef in Barolo and roast suckling pig. Finally, we delight in the sweet temptations of the house, starting with the typical almond cake, and also tasting the apple, peach and amaretti, and pear and chocolate cakes. We cannot resist the semifreddi either, available in various flavours: forest fruits, strawberries, amaretto and torroncino, and we also let ourselves be seduced by the chocolate salami, the redcurrant zuccotto and the ricotta and fresh fruit tarts.

We return to the big city after a lovely afternoon stroll, sure to come back to Varzi again for more succulent lunches in the name of tradition, perhaps on the occasion of the next First of May fair, an important Varzi event with historical re-enactments, an animal market fair, horse displays and food and wine events.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Antico Varzi Via Ponte dei Sospiri, 3 Varzi (PV) Tel.: 0383/52001 340/1413565