A Little Place Waiting to Be Discovered, among Rivers, Art and Good Food: a Trip to Verolanuova

A peal of as many as nine bells, played in the soft key of A flat, rings out from the bell tower located in the oldest district of the town, inviting every day whoever hears those unmistakable notes to visit Verolanuova. An invitation gladly accepted, which becomes the occasion for a pleasant journey through time among the streets of an ancient village immersed in nature, one of the main attractions of the Verolanuova territory.

Verolanuova is part of the inter-municipal park of the river Strone, but the vast Municipal Park is also much loved by tourists and inhabitants, with its 40,000 sq m of greenery offering numerous views from which to admire a landscape of rare beauty. The presence of rivers and irrigation channels that furrowed a territory characterised by lush vegetation was, since antiquity, an irresistible attraction for the populations that succeeded one another in these parts. If we had arrived here a few millennia ago, instead of the coming and going of cyclists and families we could have observed pirogues, that is, the prehistoric boats that travelled the rivers carrying prehistoric men busy with fishing and the first, rudimentary commercial activities.

The founding of Verolanuova, after long centuries in which the territory had remained mainly a place of transit, was the work of the Hungarians, who created the first settlement on the northern banks of the river Strone, in a position protected on three sides by the river itself, and on the fourth by an earthwork whose remains can still be seen. Following the winding little streets that climb onto the earthwork, or travelling along via Ricurva, which follows the natural bends of the Strone, one reaches the next era of the village, characterised by the long dominion of the Gambara, a Bavarian family that arrived in Verola in 1190, the year in which they built Castel Merlino where they had their first dwelling.

The dynasty, also remembered for the condottieri Alghisio and Nicolò, gave an important contribution to culture, thanks to the poet Veronica Gambara, who lived in the first half of the 16th century, and to the famous Mannerist painter Lattanzio.

The imposing castle was rebuilt in the 19th century, but of the original structure the east facade still remains, as well as three noble coats of arms in stone and the strategic moat surrounding the fortress. In front of the manor we admire the ancient church Disciplina, which from the end of the 14th century was the first parish church of the town, as well as the family chapel of the Gambara. Inside it are kept the tomb of the condottiere Nicolò Gambara and several frescoes attributed to Lattanzio Gambara. The evocative bell tower, equipped since 1748 with six bells, was restored in 1980.

During our Verolanuova walk we also admire the splendid Palazzo Gambara, today the seat of the Town Hall, and the large piazza Libertà, the traditional market place since 1529, which is reached through four entrances and from the bridge that crosses the Gambaresca irrigation channel. Crossing the square we reach the minor Roman basilica of San Lorenzo Martire, consecrated in 1647, inside which we can admire two enormous canvases by Gian Battista Tiepolo.

After this long tour through the history and art of Verolanuova, we decide to treat ourselves to a lovely dinner at a new establishment already much appreciated in the town: the Ristorante Al Posticino, in via Marconi. We easily find parking in front, and on entering we are struck by the cool and candid beauty of the environment. Ample white and cream-coloured spaces furnished with refined taste, in which art also finds an outlet thanks to the temporary exhibition of local artists on the walls, as well as a large mural of keywords recalling the philosophy of the restaurant: "food, culture, organic, territory, conviviality, harmony". Welcoming us with great kindness and friendliness are the young owners, Erica and her brother Nicola, who run the establishment together with Maurizio and the chef Lorenzo.

"We opened on 12 September 2013 after careful restoration work lasting about a year and a half," they tell us. Enthusiasm and passion combined with quality choices are at the basis of the establishment's philosophy. "The menu changes often, and we make everything fresh. Our concept in the kitchen is not to alter the flavours; consequently our dishes are almost without seasoning. With us there is nothing greasy or muddled, we don't use cream; for us it is fundamental that you can taste the authentic flavour of what you eat," Nicola explains.

Some of us choose the excellent pizzas, also available gluten-free and yeast-free. The varieties are many, and among those we taste are the "Al Posticino" pizza, invented by Nicola, with mozzarella, scamorza, cherry tomatoes and smoked salmon. The very rich "Francy" pizza, created by Nicola's aunt, is also very popular, dressed with tomato, buffalo mozzarella, grilled vegetables, capers, anchovies, olives, gorgonzola, speck and parsley. The white pizzas, without tomato, are also much appreciated, such as for example the "Ronny", with pumpkin cream, porcini, stewed pancetta and flaked grana.

The rest of our group, who prefer restaurant specialities, start with a rich fish starter, including the prawn and orange salad and the swordfish carpaccio with stuffed cabbage. The "carnivore" friends, on the other hand, choose the mixed cold cuts and a basket of brisée pastry with a vegetable medley. Among the first courses, we are all won over by the risottos, with porcini or with radicchio and gorgonzola, but also with mussels alla tarantina and anchovy fillets. We wash down these delicacies with tastefully chosen wines, also from small Franciacorta companies, such as for example the De Maldè, whose bottle also enchants us, wrapped in a very colourful label with imaginative drawings. There are also Friulian, Piedmontese, Lombard and Emilian wines, but also quality German and Belgian beers.

We continue with dishes based on first-rate meat and fish, enjoying beef tagliate and pork fillets, but the mixed fried food and the salmon steak with caponata and aubergine strips are also very popular.

Our Verolanuova day ends with the sweet temptations of the house to which we gladly give in: the soft chocolate heart, the strawberry tiramisù, the cakes skilfully prepared by Erica and the tasty creams of Nicola. These desserts too will be among the many reasons why we will gladly return to Verolanuova for our future trips.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Pizzeria Al Posticino Viale Guglielmo Marconi, 6 Verolanuova (BS) Tel.: 030/9921078 Facebook: Ristorante-Pizzeria Al Posticino