A Weekend with the Coral Fishermen: a Trip to Cervo

The thousand shades of orange and pink of the houses perched on the slopes of the hills facing the sea, a kaleidoscope of warm colours enhanced by the endless blue of the sea that forms the background: this is the dreamlike landscape that welcomes the tourists who arrive in Cervo today, but it is also the image that the Cervo coral fishermen, having set off for coral fishing, kept in their hearts during their absence. Orange and pink memories to bring home the precious corals of the same hues, from coasts even as distant as those of Corsica and Tunisia, make up the album of the stories that made Cervo important since the most ancient times.

The place name, which seems to have nothing to do with the animal (which is, however, present in the municipal coat of arms), derives from the word "servo" and indicated, during the Roman Empire, a place that offered services and which soon became an important centre thanks to its elevated position and the presence of some springs. Around 950 the castrum became a fief of the marquises of Clavesana and was subsequently enclosed between imposing walls.

Walking among the caruggi of the centre, walkable only on foot, one relives the authentic medieval atmospheres, preserved also through an important work of restoration of the ancient dwellings. The characteristic little alleys wind among a riot of flowers and are dotted with artisan workshops and oil mills where one can taste the excellent oil of the olive groves surrounding Cervo, one of the founding municipalities of the circuit of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.

Arriving in the village, we leave the car in the large car park of our home for this weekend, at the Locanda Ristorante Bellavista, in the very central piazza Castello. At the entrance to the establishment, a plaque announces next to a wonderful bougainvillea plant: "Here you eat, drink and sleep". Intending to do all three things, we settle into our elegant rooms, occupying two of the 5 doubles and the single room, all comfortable, air-conditioned and bright. Afterwards, we have a coffee and a few drinks on the hotel terrace, from which one admires a stupendous view of the sea, and set off to discover the monuments of the village.

To reach the castle of the Clavesana we only need to cross the square, and here we are immersed in the authentic medieval atmospheres of the village. Built around the 13th century, the imposing manor, whose structure also incorporates an earlier Romanesque-style tower, is today the seat of the ethnographic museum of the Ponente Ligure, while the upper floor hosts art exhibitions.

From the castle we follow some colourful little streets that accompany us through distant historical eras – the one in which Cervo was a fief of the Knights of Malta, that of the dominion of the Republic of Genoa and that of the attacks of the Saracen pirates, attracted by the notable commercial coral trade of Cervo. We thus reach the symbolic monument of the village, the church of San Giovanni Battista, known as the "church of the Corallini", because it was also erected thanks to the proceeds of coral fishing. The building, constructed between the 17th and 18th centuries, is the greatest Baroque monument of the Ponente Ligure. In the scenic piazza dei Corallini, in front of the church, the prestigious International Chamber Music Festival has been held since 1964, founded by the Hungarian violinist Sándor Végh.

Every year, in the months of July and August, artists of the calibre of Martha Argerich, Yehudi Menuhin or Stefano Bollani perform on one of the most evocative stages in the world.

Continuing our walk, from a panoramic point we notice the bell tower of the church of San Nicola da Tolentino, near some greenhouses where the flowers of the Riviera, known throughout the world, are grown. The church, erected on the ruins of an ancient pagan temple, was the first parish church of the village and was rebuilt several times following repeated destructions by the Barbarians. In the centre we also admire the now deconsecrated but evocative Oratory of Santa Caterina, erected in the 13th century. Inside the Romanesque church several 16th-century frescoes are preserved, including one depicting Saint George killing the dragon.

After this lovely stroll through the history of Cervo, we return to base, to the Ristorante Bellavista with a fair appetite. We settle into the panoramic veranda from which we can admire a breathtaking view of the castle and the sea. Welcoming us with great friendliness is Mrs Francesca, who today runs the hotel-restaurant together with her sister Patrizia, continuing a decades-long family tradition. "The inn was founded by our parents Rosalina and Bruno Carrara, fully 54 years ago," she tells us. "Since those times much has changed here in the village, but fortunately for the better. Today there is greater attention to quality, to keeping the environment clean."

What, fortunately, has never changed in these parts is the excellent quality of the food, always fresh, based on seasonality and the day's catch. "Ours is a simple cuisine linked to the maritime tradition and to the fresh products of the garden and the sea," the owner explains to us as we begin to taste an exquisite starter: octopus with potatoes and the fantastic fried anchovies, a true flagship of the house, which attracts diners even from far away. We continue with the unmissable trofie al pesto, prepared to perfection, as the restaurant is also a member of the Confraternita del Pesto. Some of us, on the other hand, opt for spaghetti alla marinara. We wash down these delicacies with excellent Ligurian wines from the rich cellar, which also boasts numerous labels from all over Italy.

Next, we enjoy a rich and very good fried fish, also among the specialities that have made the cuisine of this restaurant famous. Part of our group chooses a lovely mixed grill, and the seppie in zimino are also much appreciated.

Our dinner ends with the "stroscia", a typical dessert of this area, similar to sbrisolona, but made with olive oil.

Returning to Cervo will always be a pleasure, and besides attending some concerts of the Festival, we certainly won't miss some of the themed culinary evenings of the Ristorante Bellavista, an opportunity to discover ethnic or traditional flavours of the territory, tasting for example the cappon magro or the wild boar in season.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Piazza Castello, 2 Cervo (IM) Tel.: 0183/408094