A trip to the little lake with Alfieri and San Gaudenzio: a day in Novara

A city that carries the concept of newness in its name, and that has always attracted great figures and artists, some of whom became important precisely thanks to their work done in this place: we chose to spend a day of relaxation in the name of culture, art and good food in Novara. One of the most beautiful stories concerning a figure who arrived here long before us is that of the patron saint, San Gaudenzio: born in 327 in Ivrea to a pagan family, he became the first bishop of Novara, where for centuries the splendid Basilica di San Gaudenzio has remembered him. It's from the Basilica that our Novara tour begins, and we immediately realise that here every corner could reveal an entire novel. Starting with the very tall dome that shapes the city's skyline: it is the work of the same Alessandro Antonelli who designed the famous Mole of Turin.

But while the works on the Mole were finished in 1897, nine years after the great architect's death, the dome of the Basilica di San Gaudenzio was completed in 1887, while the artist was still alive. The bell tower is an important masterpiece too, the work of Benedetto Alfieri, uncle of Vittorio Alfieri, the famous 18th-century playwright and poet. The bell tower, 92 metres tall, houses the largest concert of bells in the Ambrosian system, made up of no fewer than eight bells. Walking in the centre, we also visit the Arengo del Broletto, the ancient centre of Novara's political life: an architectural complex made up of four historic palaces arranged in a quadrilateral, including the Town Hall palace, dating back to the 12th century.

About a hundred years more recent, on the other hand, is the “Turrisella”, the tower known as La Mirabella, around which the imposing Visconti castle was built, rising on the ancient Roman walls. Novara's creativity is known worldwide not only for its artworks, but also for the alchemy of flavours: in 1860 it was in the Bar dell'Amicizia, no longer existing, that Gaspare Campari perfected the recipe for the drink that bears his name. After this leap into the history of the aperitif, the moment comes to give in to an ever-stronger appetite, so we decide to stop for dinner at one of the most historic and beautiful places in the area, the Osteria del Laghetto. We leave the car in the large car park bordered by a row of palms that welcome you into a veritable oasis. The Osteria, in fact, is set within a spectacular, very well-kept park of about 30,000 square metres.

Endless colourful flowers, which change with the seasons, embrace two pretty artificial little lakes. This wonderful location is much sought after by newlyweds too, and by those who intend to organise events and banquets that will stay in their guests' hearts; much of the credit goes to the renowned Mediterranean cuisine of the owner and chef Vito Ferraiolo, known to everyone as Guido. “In 2011 we celebrated thirty years of activity, which we've always carried on with great passion. Ours is an international cuisine, very Mediterranean, in which the fish specialities stand out, prepared using very fresh, top-quality Italian fish that I select personally by going to the market at dawn,” Mr Guido explains to us, as he runs the restaurant with his wife Cinzia.

The dishes change with the seasons, and their originality and quality, as well as the pleasant family atmosphere, attract many diners even from other regions. We settle into the spacious dining room, not far from the spectacular open kitchen, and begin to enjoy a lobster salad with Catalan tomatoes, and fresh shelled Manfredonia langoustines sautéed in a pan. We can't resist the scallops sautéed in a pan with hazelnut oil and white truffle either. We continue with exquisite tagliolini alla saracena and cannelloni filled with Manfredonia langoustines with a basil fish velouté. Some of us opt for truffle dishes, and the scialatiello with fish ragù, made using about sixteen different fish, is a great success. We wash down these delicacies with excellent wines chosen from over a hundred Italian and foreign labels, which pair perfectly with the chef's proposals.

We continue with succulent dishes of fresh fish from our seas, and finally we give in to the temptation of the house desserts too, including a tasty stuffed fruit ice cream, so good and original that it's requested even in the depths of winter. There's still much to discover in this beautiful city, and it will be a real pleasure to return here, also to enjoy other exquisite dinners between one walk and another on the shores of the little lakes amid the flowers.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Osteria del Laghetto Via Case Sparse, 11 Novara Tel.: 0321/472962