On the trails of the Treviso Prealps, between art and nature: a weekend in Tarzo

Welcome to the kingdom of serenity. Gentle green hills among which you glimpse the blue mirrors of two lovely lakes, and where the eye wanders among the rows of vineyards that produce some of the most prized wines of Treviso. Walks with a light step in air that's fresh in summer and mild in winter, on well-kept panoramic trails easily travelled both on foot and by mountain bike, discovering little villages that hold precious works of art. That living in these parts was beautiful, even prehistoric man had understood: between the Neolithic and the Bronze Age, on the nearby lakes formed during the Würm glaciation there stood a stilt-house village. What those first inhabitants of the area could not have imagined was that millennia later Tarzo would even become a place of meditation and recreation known throughout the world, thanks to the Giardino Museo Bonsai della Serenità.

This particular garden, created by the famous botanist Armando Dal Col, is among our first destinations: a full 1000 square metres of natural wonders, with numerous plants awarded at international competitions. After the magical world of the little trees, our trip continues along the paths of art. In the centre we admire the 16th-century arcipretal church, which preserves altars and furnishings recovered from the destroyed convent of San Francesco in Conegliano, as well as valuable paintings and frescoes. Around the town we notice a lovely recently restored octagonal fountain, but the history of art accompanies us during the visit to the 15th-century church of Rive San Pietro as well, and in the discovery of some splendid noble palaces, including the 18th-century Villa Lucis-Lucchese, today the town hall.

From the centre we move to the hamlet of Fratta, near Lake Lago, where in the typical inner courtyards of the old village you can still breathe the atmosphere of centuries ago, which we also find in the valuable 13th-century frescoes in the church of San Martino. From Fratta, the Via dei Murales leads us to the village of Colmaggiore, with frescoes of scenes of everyday life on the walls of the houses. In Colmaggiore we stop in the green area “Va dee femene”, a pleasant oasis for families, and from there we continue to the pretty village of Nogarolo, from which several hiking trails start. After this nice tour we head towards our home for the weekend: a splendid 17th-century Venetian villa in a panoramic position, with a spectacular view over the surrounding hills. Here, since 1919, has been the Albergo Ristorante Ai Pini.

We settle into two of the eight rooms on the piano nobile, all wonderfully restored and furnished with simple taste and period furniture that testify to the hotel's history. “More than ninety years have passed since Rico dei Pini and his wife Rina started this restaurant. After the grandparents, their son Bruno and his wife Maria continued the business, and today it's us, the third generation, proudly carrying on the place, welcoming our guests in a truly family atmosphere of simplicity and hospitality,” Susanna and Giovanni Della Pietà, the current owners, tell us, as we begin to glance at the menu. The traditional flavours we're about to enjoy will accompany memories of distant times, resurfacing in the stories of the owners of the establishment, which grew together with the town and, over the long decades, became a true institution.

“Troops heading to Russia during the Second World War were hosted here, but many Treviso emigrants have also passed through these rooms, leaving with great hopes and always returning here to tell their experiences, more or less fortunate,” they explain to us. For sure, whoever has passed through here has, in every era, had the chance to enjoy the authentic dishes of the area, which are still there and are prepared using ingredients produced by farms in the immediate surroundings, at zero kilometres. We start with sopressa with polenta, and we also taste several other starters including the Morlacco cheese and apple salad and the sweet-and-sour pork loin. We continue with gnocchi with smoked ricotta, the bread cream and Treviso casatella, and with the classic, but always excellent pasta and beans.

Among the second courses, some choose the hunter's-style venison and some the baked veal shoulder, but the grills of pork chop, veal and beef rib are also a great success. Finally, we also enjoy a tasty plate of cheeses from the Marca Trevigiana, exchanging a few more cheerful words with Mr Giovanni. The next day we have breakfast with homemade jams and cakes: all these delights, the good air of Tarzo and the beauty of its landscape will certainly bring us back here for many more pleasant holiday weekends.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and photographs: Stefano Zanus

FOR INFORMATION:

Albergo Ristorante Ai Pini Vicolo dei pini, 6 Tarzo (TV) Tel.: 0438/586206