Mystery and good food in the Venetian lagoon: a day on the island of Torcello

The maiden and the sorceress turned up promptly for their appointment. When they reached the characteristic bridge without a parapet, waiting for them was a handsome young man with blond curls, accompanied by the Devil himself. The young man was an Austrian soldier in the army that occupied Venice, and for this reason her family opposed the love between the two. The soldier, found dead a few days earlier, came back to life that evening thanks to a pact between the sorceress and the Devil, so the two lovers were able to run away together and live happily. The sorceress, who died a few days later, remained in debt to the evil one for the souls of seven children, and according to the legend, the Devil would never stop appearing at the bridge every night, waiting for the promised souls.

This tale full of mystery is just one of the many curiosities to be discovered on the island of Torcello, a place inhabited since the first centuries of the Roman Empire and known as one of the oldest and most prosperous settlements in the lagoon, today appreciated by tourists also for the precious archaeological finds unearthed in its territory. Given the infrequent public transport, reaching the island can be a challenge, but once you arrive, you are more than repaid for your effort. Leaving behind the colourful, postcard-like comings and goings of central Venice, here you breathe the timeless charm of the salt marshes and are surprised by the sight of the tower of the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta rising towards the sky. The religious building, erected from 639 in the Venetian-Byzantine style, stands in a slightly isolated position near the square of the old town.

The remains of the baptistery in front of the church are an authentic open-air temple, while the cathedral is known mainly for the large mosaic on its inner facade, depicting the Last Judgement, which "greets" the faithful with its artistic warning after mass. Visiting the nearby church of Santa Fosca, the book of Torcello's mysteries opens once more. Built in the 11th century in the Ravenna style, the church stands out for its circular shape. The evocative play of light and dark shadows inside seems to tell the tormented story of Saint Fosca, a Christian virgin and martyr. Once outside, in the open space also bordered by the Palazzo del Podesta, home to the Provincial Museum of Torcello, we can sit down on nothing less than Attila's throne, a seat once reserved for the tribunes of the administration of justice.

We take advantage of the absence of its rightful owner to snap a few photos in the guise of the king of the Huns, and then we return to the legendary bridge where a lunch devoted to the pleasures of good food awaits us at the Osteria Al Ponte del Diavolo. Welcoming us in the refined setting of the restaurant, which in addition to the indoor dining room also has a large pergola that can be heated in winter and a garden, are the owners Alberto, Roberto and Stefano, who have run the place since 2011. "Many years ago this was a fisherman's house and we continue the tradition, offering fish dishes based on the fresh catch of the area. The pasta and desserts are all homemade and the fresh vegetables come from the island's gardens," the owners tell us, all with great experience behind them in high-quality dining.

We settle into the wicker armchairs under the bright pergola, but we don't miss the romantic gazebo either, which we'll choose next time for an intimate occasion. We begin with the house's raw scampi and salt cod ring with Kaiser Pear reduction, and we also taste the fresh spider crab served in its shell. Among the starters we can't resist the lagoon shrimp with warm polenta, as well as the Millefeuille of scallops and porcini and the red onion stuffed alla Bechera on a fondue of soft cheeses. We continue with a nice scampi risotto with gò broth and Gragnano tagliatelle with lobster, pumpkin pearls and wild rocket. Among the traditional dishes we taste the bigoli in salsa, washing down these delights with Torcellum wine, produced exclusively for this restaurant by a Friulian company.

We go on with the baked catch of the day with rosemary potatoes, Pachino cherry tomatoes and Taggiasca olives, but the seared tuna in an almond and pistachio crust with a valerian and pancetta basket is also a hit. We certainly don't skip the typical stewed eel with polenta either. Our dinner ends on a very sweet note thanks to the tasty house desserts, including the white chocolate and pomegranate sacher, the cat's tongues with mascarpone cream and raspberries and the cheesecake with Regina Claudia and seasonal citrus fruits. Coming back here will always be a great pleasure, and even if we were to meet the devil at the bridge, no fear: we'll invite him to lunch, and he'll become good!

Text: Francesca Bertha Consulting and photographs: Stefano Zanus

FOR INFORMATION:

Osteria Al Ponte Del Diavolo Fondamenta Borgognoni 10/11 Torcello Venezia Tel.: 041/730401