In the footsteps of old-time wayfarers: a weekend in the greenery of Loiano and in the village of Anconella

It doesn't matter whether you're on foot, on a motorbike or on horseback, whether you intend to take long walks wearing trekking boots, sitting in the saddle of your curve-eating machine or riding like a true cowboy: without a doubt the landscape of Loiano and its characteristic villages, situated among the Bolognese Apennine valleys, is the ideal destination for a weekend full of emotions. We arrive here following the very old Futa state road, whose route was built during the time of Charlemagne, becoming an important artery for reaching Florence. Among the first stops of our trip are the narrow and evocative Gole di Scascoli, whose walls plunging down to the river stretch for a couple of kilometres and whose width at certain points shrinks to a few metres.

Nature keeps amazing us also when we walk in the Giardini del Casoncello, a true flowering oasis where you can admire countless wonderful and rare plants. After visiting some of the pretty villages that make up the municipality of Loiano, we head towards our home for this weekend: the village of Anconella, mentioned as early as the 13th century. We had learned from motorcycling friends that above the Trattoria Anconella it was also possible to stay in the recently restored apartments and rooms, so we decided to stop at this historic establishment, following in the footsteps of the many travellers and pilgrims who had preceded us over the centuries.

"The building of the trattoria was once run by the monks of the Order of the Knights Hospitaller, who welcomed the wayfarers who stopped here to change horses and rest," the Gamberini brothers, who have run the establishment for six years, tell us. The beautiful portico of the place is one of the characteristic attractions of the village, while in the dining room there is a precious late-15th-century fireplace with bas-reliefs and the coat of arms of the Bentivoglio family. After settling into our beautiful rooms, bright and with a rustic elegance, furnished with antique furniture that reflects the soul of the place, we go for a stroll around the village, where we discover a 16th-century tower house. We also visit the Chiesina, enlarged in the 18th century, and the remains of an oratory dating from the 14th century.

The "buse nelle lastre" are very curious, that is, the caves dug into the sandstone, once used as dwellings and shelters, but also as a refuge during the war. After this lovely journey into the history of Anconella, we return to our home and devote the evening to the pleasures of good food. Like the rooms, the dining room of the trattoria has also been skilfully restored by the owners, preserving the characteristic wooden trusses and beams and also some stretches of exposed sandstone wall. The bathrooms have been created from the former stables. In the dining room we are welcomed by Vincenzo and Gianluca, who also look after the bar and the cellar, while the delicacies created by the very talented cooks Rita and Katia arrive on our tables. At the busiest times Silvia and Debora also lend a hand.

We begin with delicious crescentine, puffed up and soft, served with cold cuts, mixed cheeses and pickles. We continue with first courses from the Bolognese and mountain tradition, all fresh and homemade, including tagliatelle al ragù, which depending on the season are prepared with porcini mushrooms or truffle. We also taste the potato gnocchetti, the typical ricotta tortelloni with speck and walnuts, and the caramelle of fresh pasta filled with meat and dressed with cherry tomatoes and basil. We wash down these delights with excellent wines from various Italian regions, chosen from over eighty labels on display in the evocative cellar, once used as an icehouse. Even our coeliac friend enjoys an exquisite dinner thanks to the certification for preparing food for coeliacs.

The ingredients are all as far as possible zero-mile, coming from local or nearby producers: this also applies to the excellent Tuscan meats; in fact we have the pleasure of tasting an exquisite Florentine chianina steak, but also a nice mixed grill with ribs, sausage, ham and coppone, the chop, and the tender and tasty fillet. Our dinner ends on a very sweet note, thanks to the homemade desserts including the pine nut cake, the chocolate cremino cake and the semifreddi, but the biggest hit is the "bicchierino del birichino": meringue, mascarpone and chocolate in layers. We devote the second day to lovely walks in nature, and we also visit the Cassini Astronomical Observatory, home to the second largest telescope in Italy. We have no doubts: the stars, but above all the unspoilt nature and the good food will soon bring us back here for new trips.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consulting and photographs: Valeria Balbiano

FOR INFORMATION:

Trattoria Anconella Via Anconella, 41/43 Loiano (BO) Tel.: 051/928373