Dolce vita beneath the ancient towers: a day in Albenga

A group of very ancient towers soaring towards the blue sky that blends with the blue of the sea: when, driving along the Autostrada dei Fiori, our gaze meets this extraordinary panorama, we know we're at the height of Albenga, a town that boasts the most evocative and best-preserved historic centre on the western Ligurian Riviera. But Albenga also welcomes with a breathtaking view those arriving from the sea: the splendid Isola Gallinara, once inhabited by the Columbanian monks and later by the Benedictines, lies right in front of the town. The island, which takes its name from the wild hens that once populated it, was the refuge of St Martin of Tours towards the end of the 4th century, while today it is a nature reserve with one of the largest nesting colonies of gulls in the Ligurian Sea.

The walk through the historic centre of Albenga, once called Album Ingaunum, is a real plunge into the most authentic medieval atmosphere. You go around with your nose in the air and your mouth open in amazement at the sight of so many splendid towers sprouting everywhere behind the palazzi and at the end of the alleys. Those of the Old Town Hall and the Cathedral are the three symbolic towers of the town, recalling the ancient conflicts between ecclesiastical and municipal powers.

Legend has it that many centuries ago there was a serpent in the town that terrorised the inhabitants. In particular it made it impossible to travel from Albenga to Alassio, killing anyone who passed that way. So the population held a procession praying St Michael the Archangel, patron of the town, to kill the dreadful reptile. The miracle was not long in coming: during the night a sudden flash was seen heading from the sky towards a precise point on the road. Right there the people found the serpent dead. The Cathedral of St Michael the Archangel, founded towards the end of the 4th century, is among the oldest buildings in the town. The present church stands on the site of the early Christian construction and preserves precious frescoes and other works inside.

In the historic centre we visit the Civico Museo Ingauno at the Palazzo del Vecchio Comune, and also admire the Palazzo Vescovile and the Palazzo Peloso Cepolla, with its 13th-century tower.

Albenga's fabulous geographical position was also a source of danger in the past, particularly because of pirate raids. On 2 July 1637, while the celebrations of the feast of the Madonna di Pontelungo were taking place at the Sanctuary, Saracen pirates attacked nearby Ceriale, plundering it and killing dozens of people. Straight afterwards they headed towards Albenga, but were dazzled by the splendour coming from the Sanctuary and so, frightened, gave up the massacre. Near the Sanctuary we also visit the Basilica of San Vittore, an early Christian building that rose on the site of a necropolis from the Roman imperial period.

After this lovely walk we decide to treat ourselves to an authentic Ligurian dinner, and so we settle at the tables of Ristorante La Dolce Vita, in Viale Italia, a stone's throw from the sea. Entering the room, with its modern, elegant furnishings and warm colours, we immediately find ourselves immersed in Fellini-esque atmospheres. The huge blow-ups of scenes from the most famous films on the walls make us dream of being on the legendary sets of “Pane, amore e fantasia” or of “La Dolce Vita”.

“We've been open since 2006, and recently we added a new room dedicated exclusively to restaurant specialities, while in this one we also serve pizza,” the owner, Mr Marco, explains. Some of us indeed decide to have the pizzas, many of them inspired by the world of cinema, such as the Pizza Mastroianni, the Pizza Loren or the Pizza Dolce Vita itself. The rest of our group opts instead for the à la carte menu, starting with an abundant seafood starter, including amberjack tartare with fresh trombetta courgettes from Albenga, marinated swordfish carpaccio and prawn tails with pink sauce. We continue with linguine with fresh crab, tagliolini with cuttlefish ink with monkfish, lemon and mint, and tagliolini with fresh lobster. We wash down these delicacies with mainly Ligurian wines, including Pigato and Vermentino, as well as an excellent Ormeasco Sciac-Trà di Pornassio.

Our friends accompany the pizzas with French, Corsican and Belgian beers. We continue with an exquisite grilled catch of the day, while some of us choose fresh baby squid stuffed with scamorza sautéed with fresh trombetta courgettes from Albenga and a fry of fresh squid. The film of our dinner has a sweet ending thanks to the homemade cakes, but also thanks to the dessert called “Otto e mezzo”: berries on custard with cream ice cream and crushed nougat.

We'll certainly return to wonderful Albenga to enjoy these lovely film-like atmospheres again.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante La Dolce Vita Viale Italia, 71/73 Albenga (SV) Tel.: 0182/50243