The first radio that talks of mysteries and good food: a day in Sasso Marconi

Once upon a time there was a boy, half Italian and half Irish, who loved to spend his time shut away in the “silkworm room” of Villa Griffone, in Pontecchio, in the Bolognese countryside, where he lived with his family. In the silent company of the silkworms the very young Guglielmo Marconi read the scientific journal “L'Elettricità” with passion, and put into practice many of the experiments suggested by its authors. It was during one of these long afternoons of study that the boy decided to devote his life to research on electromagnetic waves: a resolve that would allow him, in 1895, to reach the “baptism” of radio in Italy.

A trip to Sasso Marconi, a town that today proudly bears the name of the great inventor, can't leave out a visit to some of the places that preserve the scientist's memory, including the Marconi Park where children can have fun with games based on his discoveries.

The name of this lovely town also reveals its other great tourist attraction: the Sasso di Glosina. If today it is one of hikers' favourite destinations, in the past the Rupe was considered a place full of mystery and magic. Certain ancient beliefs held the Sasso to be inhabited even by Satan, and it was a 13th-century Franciscan pilgrim, Salimbene, who told of two novices killed on the spot by the devil. In the end good triumphed: in 1283 a rock church dedicated to the Virgin Mary was built on the Sasso, with a hostel alongside. The religious complex became a destination for many pilgrims. In 1477 the sanctuary was moved into a cave, from which it was later transferred to the town's main square, where it still stands.

Had we come here in the days of the pilgrim Salimbene, we would also have seen the imposing fortress that dominated the settlement from the hillside spot of Castel del Vescovo. Today only the church and the old bell tower remain of the structure.

After this long journey through the history of Sasso Marconi, we head towards another lovely part of town: the Laghetti del Maglio. These are four pretty stretches of water linked to each other by an underground channel and fed by a spring. They once served the paper mill, while today they are a little paradise for fishermen. It's precisely in this pleasant location that we decide to stop for dinner, to eat well at Ristorante ai Laghetti del Maglio.

We enter through the fine portico and settle on the large natural terrace from which we can admire one of the little lakes, our gaze ranging as far as the first Bolognese hills. Before us, this corner of an oasis had struck Mr Filippo Licciardo, the owner, who 25 years ago had decided to move his previous business, a pizzeria, here. “Little by little we grew and the place developed into a restaurant. Today the running of the dining room and the whole business side is in the hands of our son Filippo, who at just twenty is one of the youngest entrepreneurs in Italy,” father Filippo and mother Marinella tell us proudly; she still looks after the kitchen, rolling out the dough every morning and doing the shopping with the greatest attention to the quality of the raw ingredients.

A further essential ingredient of the Licciardos' hospitality is the kindness with which they make everyone feel part of the family.

Our dinner begins with a parade of exquisite fresh-pasta first courses including tortelloni with a very delicate gorgonzola-and-walnut filling, tortelloni with porcini mushrooms and small, beautiful dry tortellini with cream, presented in a little bowl like tiny treasures. Some of our friends opt instead for tagliatelle, but the pappardelle baked in a foil parcel with porcini mushrooms and smoked scamorza, served in the parcel, also prove a great success. We wash down these delicacies with excellent but not expensive wines from the Bolognese hills: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Lambrusco pair perfectly with the specialities we're enjoying. We continue with fabulous crescentine, light and fluffy, accompanied by a board of top-quality cured meats, soft cheese, and pickled vegetables.

Part of the group can't even resist the succulent meat dishes including mixed grills, tagliata with artichokes and grana, or fillet with balsamic vinegar, paired with seasonal vegetables.

Finally we give in to the sweet temptations of the house, all very fresh, such as crème catalane, zuppa inglese, panna cotta, crème caramel and a mousse of yogurt and fresh strawberries.

Now that we've discovered this pleasant place, we'll gladly come back often, perhaps even just to sip a drink at the restaurant's kiosk, or for a fun game of beach volley on the new sand court with night lighting beside the little lake.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and part of the photographs: Valeria Balbiano

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Laghetti del Maglio Via Cartiera, 83/85 Sasso Marconi (BO) Tel.: 338/2685223