In Leonardo's footsteps, among the balze and good food: a weekend in Reggello

When Monna Lisa, after posing for Leonardo da Vinci, turned around, her famous enigmatic expression changed to astonishment and wonder: behind her were the pinnacles and spires of the so-called balze of the Valdarno. We don't know whether it really happened that way, but what is certain is that Leonardo drew inspiration from this breathtaking landscape, which some even compare to the American Monument Valley, in more than one of his works. Moreover, Leonardo was the first to understand the singular geological phenomenon of the erosion of the sediments of the lake that once covered the Upper Valdarno. The first destination of our trip, reaching the hamlets of Montanino and Vaggio, are precisely these extraordinary formations: very tall vertical walls of ochre yellow, between which are deep gorges where streams flow and many species of birds take refuge.

Continuing on, through olive groves, vines and Mediterranean woods, we travel the famous strada dei Setteponti, of Etruscan origin, called Cassia Vetus in Roman times, which leads us to the village of Cascia. Here we visit the splendid Romanesque parish church of San Pietro, built in the 12th century and essentially intact.

Near the church is the Masaccio Museum and a short distance away the centre of Reggello, where we take a stroll in the evocative Piazza Potente, beneath its low loggias, before rejoining the strada dei Setteponti to reach Vallombrosa, the jewel in the area's crown. At about a thousand metres of altitude, at the centre of the biogenetic nature reserve of the same name, stands the abbey of Vallombrosa, founded in 1036 by San Giovanni Gualberto, a forerunner of the ideas of St Francis. This place of absolute peace, immersed in dense forests, where for centuries the monks worked and devoted themselves to meditation, and which they still tend with the important experimental arboretum, is today among the favourite Tuscan destinations of pilgrims and tourists.

We also tackle the breathtaking route of the “chapels”, which from the abbey climbs towards the “Paradisino”, a rocky outcrop from which a magnificent view opens over the valley and the silver fir woods that embrace the religious building.

In such a fabulous setting, a castle certainly can't be missing: we find it by crossing a large English park and following avenues lined with rows of giant sequoias (imported to Europe by the eclectic owner of the residence, Ferdinando Panciatichi Ximenes). Sammezzano Castle, built in a curious mixed style blending Arab, Indian and Spanish architectural elements, was much admired even by the King of Italy, who once stayed here.

After this lovely tour, all that remains is to reach our home for the weekend, and we find it along the way, at a symbol of travel: a former road-mender's house. We stop, in fact, at the Locanda dei Cantonieri, the only restaurant in Italy housed in one of those Pompeian-red houses, until thirty years ago inhabited by the cantonieri, the “guardian angels” of the roads. After settling into our comfortable, bright rooms, we go down to the restaurant where an evening of authentic Tuscan flavours awaits. Welcoming us with great kindness are Francesco and Gaia, who have run the place, skilfully restored by owner Graziano, since 2012. The culinary art is entrusted to the experience and imagination of chef Bruno, who comes from one of the most renowned restaurants in the Florentine gastronomic tradition.

“Our dishes are zero-kilometre; the ingredients, all top quality, come from local suppliers, and we prepare everything to order,” they explain as we begin to taste a selection of local cured meats, along with Tuscan crostini with liver pâté and both hot and cold vegetable and meat bakes, among which the excellent onion stuffed with parmesan and courgette flowers stuffed with swordfish and red pepper sauce. We continue with pappardelle with wild boar sauce and spaghetti alla carbonara with fresh local truffle. We wash down these delicacies with excellent wines selected by Francesco, a great connoisseur who offers us, among others, labels such as the Tegolaia del Chianti Rufina, the production area where the inn is located, or the Paratino, a pure Cabernet Franc.

We go on with pork fillet cooked in Sangiovese, dressed with a sauce prepared with plums, apples, pears, juniper berries and various spices. As a side dish, roast potatoes hand-cut and cooked with their skins. Some of us opt instead for the Florentine-style fried veal brains with fried Maremman morelli artichokes.

Finally, we certainly can't resist the tasty homemade desserts, including the orange-and-almond cake (chef Bruno's recipe), the saffron panna cotta and the chocolate-and-pear cake: sweet memories that will bring us back here with great pleasure.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and photographs: Marco Mocellin

FOR INFORMATION:

Locanda dei Cantonieri Via Aretina, 50 Leccio, Reggello (FI) Tel.: 055/0674258 Facebook: Locanda Dei Cantonieri