At the fortress with Leonardo: a day in Imola, between history, miracles and good food

Imola's name is known worldwide to tens of millions of Formula 1 fans, but few know that the town's first track dates back to the 5th century BC. Of course, it wasn't a track for car races, but a foothill road built by the Etruscans to link the territory of present-day Rimini with that of Bologna. That road, paved by the ancient Romans, became the via Emilia, the main artery of the Imola area, where agriculture and trade began to develop significantly.

So, while in the town and its surroundings the struggles between Guelphs and Ghibellines raged, in Imola's lagoon port at Conselice a corner of peace and prosperity had been created thanks to trade. The surplus agricultural produce of Imola was transferred to the port along a navigable canal and from there, passing through the Po, set sail towards distant lands.

Many centuries ago a distinguished “traveller” also passed through Imola: St Francis of Assisi, who came to the town to preach peace and brotherhood. In those years work was under way on the construction of the Duomo dedicated to San Cassiano, while the saint may already have visited the town's oldest religious building, the abbey of Santa Maria in Regola, mentioned as early as 998.

That Imola was in God's favour can also be seen from a miraculous episode that occurred in 1483. It was Maundy Thursday and a pilgrim stopped near the town, reciting a prayer before a votive shrine next to a small pear tree (“piradèl” in Romagnol). At that point he had a vision of the Virgin who told him to ask the authorities of Imola to build a sanctuary dedicated to her on that spot. It was March, and all around a beautiful rose garden suddenly bloomed. He took the flowers to the town's lords, who, seeing the evidence of the Marian miracle, granted the request, erecting the sanctuary of the Beata Vergine del Piratello.

Our walk through the stories of the past brings us before the town's most significant monument, the spectacular Rocca Sforzesca. Built from 1332 onwards, on the remains of an 11th-century keep, the castle is very well preserved. In 1502, at the call of Cesare Borgia, who had conquered the fortress three years earlier, it was none other than Leonardo da Vinci who designed some strengthening works.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and photographs: Valeria Balbiano

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