Along the Strada del Po e dei Sapori: a Day in Monticelli d'Ongina

From the din of the big city to the absolute tranquillity of an island that seems to float suspended in a timeless atmosphere, where the blue of the water with its green and grey reflections tends to merge with the sky. Behind the red poppies blooming on the banks, the little fishing boats can be glimpsed, and from the rows of poplar groves rings out the chirping of a great variety of birds. The Bassa Piacentina is a territory very rich in natural and historical-architectural beauties, which we can discover also by following a stretch of the cycle path that links Piacenza and Cremona, and which in the Monticelli d'Ongina stretch is particularly used all year round, thanks also to an efficient rental service.

But besides two wheels there is also the boat: from July to November, the motor vessel Calpurnia takes tourists to discover the most unspoilt stretch of the Po, which precisely in the territory of Monticelli and the neighbouring municipalities had decided, many years ago, to take a slow course, creating numerous spectacular bends, as if it wanted to show the inhabitants a way of living that would remain on a human scale even centuries later. Before landing on Isola Serafini, we decide to take a little tour of the beautiful historic centre of Monticelli d'Ongina, known above all for the Rocca, that is, the Castello Pallavicino Casali. It is one of the largest monuments of the lower Po plain, built entirely in fired brick.

It is precisely inside it that our ideal journey on the great river begins, visiting the Po Aquarium and the Po Museum, which preserves a spectacular dugout canoe found near Isola Serafini, dating back almost two thousand years. We also visit the Basilica of San Lorenzo Martire, erected from 1470, which preserves inside precious works by Cremonese artists of the 15th-16th centuries. After a walk in the historic centre, with its characteristic porticoed layout wished for by the Pallavicino, we take the road back towards the river, reaching Isola Serafini, an ideal destination also for birdwatching enthusiasts. At this point our journey continues at the table, at the Antica Trattoria Da Cattivelli.

After admiring the wonderful garden, which in summer hosts the most sought-after tables, we settle into one of the large inner rooms, furnished with refined taste that combines elegance with authentic country atmospheres. In front of us, a beautiful fresco by Giacomo Malfanti, depicting farmers and fishermen of other times. 'This trattoria has been run since 1947 by the Cattivelli family, and we have always kept the spirit of family hospitality and the substance of home cooking, pampering our customers in a relaxing atmosphere,' Mr Luca tells us, who runs the restaurant together with his parents-in-law Valentino Cattivelli and Cesira, his wife Emanuela, and with Claudia and Massimiliano, the daughter and son-in-law of Mr Valentino.

From Mr Luca, who is also vice-president of the Strada del Po e dei Sapori della Bassa Piacentina Association, we learn a series of valuable information about the area's food and wine culture, including the fact that here, thanks to a study carried out by young agricultural science researchers, it is possible to take a journey following the map of the lands, which shows zone by zone the characteristics of the soil that determine agricultural crops. Monticelli, for example, is famous for its garlic, while Villanova Sull'Arda is famous for its cherries. We start with the house culatello aged 20 months, but we also taste the coppa, salami and D.O.P. pancetta of the Piacenza hills, accompanied by an exquisite giardiniera by the Pisaroni brothers. We also taste an excellent asparagus flan from the Piacenza asparagus consortium in Salva cremasco sauce.

Among the fish starters, we delight in the tartare of fished and smoked trout and in the fabulous marinated house eel. We continue with a timbale of Venus rice with river prawns, but we can't resist the traditional pisarei e faso either. The pasta is all homemade, and in the menu a smiling emoticon indicates the dishes made with ingredients from producers of the Bassa Piacentina, such as for example the ricotta gnocchetti with Valpadana sweet provolone cream and asparagus, but also, among the main courses, the very good boned and stuffed guinea fowl, the goose leg browned with potatoes, and the snails stewed alla piacentina. Our journey among the flavours of the territory culminates with the tasty house desserts, including the zero-mile fruit in syrup with strawberry-grape sorbet and the cold yogurt tart with flambeed apricots and pistachio biscuit.

We still have a lot to discover in the Bassa Piacentina, where the journey is also musical: Villa Verdi, where the Maestro lived and worked, is just a few kilometres away. Between nature, art and good food, it will always be a pleasure to return to the Strada del Po.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Trattoria Cattivelli Via Chiesa di Isola Serafini, 2 Monticelli d'Ongina (PC) Tel.: 0523/829418