A Trip to the Rocca Where Art Turns Delicious: a Day in Bazzano

A beautiful, feared and powerful countess walks away along the castle corridors, descends a staircase and disappears into the mysterious darkness. After a few minutes here she is reappearing on horseback, wearing a golden armour, as she leaves the gate of the Rocca dei Bentivoglio, in Bazzano, several kilometres from Monteveglio, where she had set out from. How did she manage to cover the distance between the two castles? According to legend, Countess Matilda of Canossa kept her golden armour, together with some chests full of precious objects, in the underground gallery that once was said to join the two manors. Our walk in Bazzano, a city of art, begins at the very central Piazza Garibaldi, where near the Town Hall we discover some of the symbols of the municipality: the pomegranate, present in the coat of arms, the Pozzo del Castellaccio and the statue of Judith.

It is said that the true people of Bazzano have all drunk the water of this well, and among them many remember the story of Judith. The sculpture, portraying a beautiful and buxom woman, was once considered scandalous and was hidden. Once these taboos were overcome, today Judith is considered the symbol of the town, celebrated in spring with a food and wine fair. From the square we follow a short stepped stretch, passing alongside the Chapel of the Madonna del Rivellino and a Via Crucis with dark wooden crosses. At a certain point we notice the 14th-century Clock Tower and so we arrive in the square in front of the Church of Santo Stefano, located next to the Rocca dei Bentivoglio and existing already as far back as 789.

The ancient Rocca, mentioned as early as around the year 1000, today houses the Crespellani Museum and is the venue for art exhibitions and shows, but over the centuries it was also the seat of the Captain of the Mountain, as well as a theatre, barracks, school and prison. Among those locked up, in 1799 there was an illustrious figure: Ugo Foscolo, captured by the Austrian hussars. After this lovely walk, we too decide to be captured, but by the authentic flavours of this territory, stopping for dinner at the Ristorante Da bon, located on the ring road, a stone's throw from the centre. Welcoming us is Mr Daniele Fornarola, the owner who, thanks to the Pallotti family, continues the tradition of the Ristorante Da Angela, run since 1953 by the ladies Angela and Ivonne.

We settle into the largest room, ideal also for parties and ceremonies, which opens onto a pleasant view of the Samoggia stream. As we begin to study the menu we also learn a little Bolognese: As magna ben... Da bon! means You eat well... Really! Mr Daniele, who runs the place with the precious help of Federica and with the cook Salvatore Sibilli and some assistants, advises us to start with a starter of chianina fillet carpaccio with caramelised Salento figs and flakes of Valsamoggia pecorino. We also taste the very good tigelle and crescentine, served with cold cuts from the nearby Landa valley and with cheeses from Valsamoggia. We continue with exquisite first courses of fresh pasta rolled by hand by two sfogline: tortellini, tagliatelle and tortelloni. Their filling of cow's and sheep's ricotta comes from local dairies.

We also taste the tortelloni with fragrant guanciale, pine nuts and Modena balsamic vinegar, and the classic tortellini in broth. With the same filling, but not bound, the meat raviolini are also prepared, dressed with a cream of fossa cheese from the Rubicone, a reduction of Albana passito and crunchy aubergines. We wash down these treats with excellent local wines, in particular from the Botti cellar of Monte San Pietro. Among others we taste the Pignoletto of the Bologna hills and the Lambrusco of Castelvetro. We also taste some Veneto, Abruzzo and Sicilian wines, all with an excellent quality-price ratio. We then move on to the restaurant's strong point, the meat, choosing an excellent 800-gram Florentine steak cooked on the grill, served with cannellini beans dressed with salt and pepper, while some of us opt for the lamb in a pistachio crust cooked on the grill.

Meanwhile, to the neighbouring tables arrive steaming pizzas baked in the wood-fired oven, including a very tasty one with fresh mushrooms, sausage and flakes of grana. We also discover that every Friday, on reservation, you can eat excellent fish. Our dinner ends with the irresistible homemade desserts, including the mascarpone cream with chocolate flakes, the legendary tenerina chocolate cake by Sora Bella (the owner's sister), served with Gran Bologna cream ice cream. The chef's surprise also delights us: a flan with a heart of hot chocolate, with cream ice cream. It will be a real pleasure to return here during the warm season too, also for other dinners in the summer veranda. Certainly, to anyone who asks us what Bazzano is like, we will answer: Beautiful, da bon!

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and photographs of Bazzano: Valeria Balbiano

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Da bon Via Circonvallazione Nord, 74 Bazzano (BO) Tel.: 051/830896