A Trip to the Lakes, in the Footsteps of Prehistoric Man and a Witch or Two: a Day in Trana

Deciding where to spend a day of holiday is often a real dilemma: the kids would like to go to the lake, dad to the mountains, mum to see a city of art, the teenage daughter would instead discover a mysterious place, better if equipped with witches or ghosts. For those who can get to the surroundings of Turin, the solution exists, and it is found by reaching Trana, a small but very pretty town in the Val Sangone. Our trip begins by crossing the old bridge over the Sangone stream, and passing the historic centre, we reach in a few minutes the lakes of Avigliana, two enchanting stretches of water frequented by sailors and canoeists, as well as numerous tourists who, like us, choose to take a relaxing walk on their shores.

Dominating the valley from the rocky spur of Mount Pirchiriano, once a favourite place of hermits, is the Sacra di San Michele, an abbey of evocative beauty, founded between 983 and 987. We cover the last uphill stretch on foot, and the panoramic view both of the abbey and of the surrounding landscape rewards us for the small effort. Returning to Trana, we notice already from a certain distance the ancient Torre degli Orsini, which dominates the built-up area from a hill beside the stream. Thirty metres tall, it has watched over the town since the 10th-11th centuries, bearing witness to the times when the place was defended by the castle, destroyed by French troops at the end of the 17th century. From the memory of medieval and Napoleonic battles we take a big leap back in history, immersing ourselves in an atmosphere charged with mysteries and legends.

The occasion to do so is the visit to Mount Pietra Borga, where there is a broad plateau with clusters of menhirs of considerable size. Linked to this particular megalithic cultural area, which arose from 4000 BC, are numerous legends concerning the local witches (the masche), also haunted by the spirits of the wood. Our walk concludes in the name of the sacred: in Trana there are numerous beautiful churches and chapels, and the bell towers reaching up to the sky help to draw the town's characteristic skyline. We visit the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Stella, built in the 18th century on the site of an ancient little church of Roman times, while its fine bell tower dates back to 1885. On the highest knoll of the municipal territory stands the Cappella del Colombe, built by the counts Gromis, lords of Trana, in 1777.

Returning to the centre, we also admire the Parish Church of the Nativity, originally from 1621. We stay in the heart of the town for dinner too, choosing the Ristorante Borgo Antico, in Via Giordano Bruno, opposite the Town Hall. It was some cyclists who often stop here for lunch, taking advantage of the 7-euro one-dish meals and the 10-euro fixed workers' menu, who recommended this place to us. The atmosphere is warm and familiar, the cooking traditional, fresh and without frills. In the warm season you can spend evenings outdoors, enjoying the fish and meat grills cooked on the open barbecue. There is never a cover charge, and on Sunday evening you get your choice of pizza, baked in the wood-fired oven, with a drink and dessert for just 10 euros.

Taste, savings and emotion travel at the same pace: on request it is also possible to eat dishes the way grandma made them, rediscovering the flavours of our childhood, including Calabrian specialities, given the origins of the owners. 'We opened this place 26 years ago. At first it was a beer house, then the business perfected itself, establishing itself with quality but simple cooking, based on the absolute freshness of the products. The dishes change very frequently precisely according to the fresh ingredients we have day by day,' Mr Cosimo, the owner, tells us. We start with the house starters, which include Calabrian zeppole, cheeses and little fish fritters. We also taste an excellent swordfish carpaccio, fried aubergine meatballs and also a few Piedmontese dishes, such as vitello tonnato. The first courses are prepared with homemade pasta, rolled by hand with a rolling pin.

We then go on with the paglia e fieno with local porcini mushrooms sauteed with a little lard: a real delicacy. Some of us choose the tagliatelle with ragu, and the garganelli with black truffle and sausage are also very popular. Among the main courses we opt for fish specialities, including stewed stockfish, fried salt cod and stewed salt cod with potatoes and olives. We discover that on reservation it is also possible to eat suckling pig cooked in the wood-fired oven. Finally, we gladly yield to the sweet temptations of the homemade desserts, including the tiramisu and a fantastic panna cotta, prepared only with natural ingredients. We return to the city enriched by a lovely experience that we will certainly repeat soon: we still have to visit the Rea Botanical Garden and we are already looking forward to the pleasure of outdoor barbecue evenings.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Borgo Antico Via Giordano Bruno, 2 Tel.: 011/9338133 Facebook: Borgo Antico Trana