A Pilgrimage of Art, History and Good Food: A Day in Giaveno

You leave the Turin ring road and after about half an hour you find yourself immersed in the green landscape of the Val Sangone, which, curve after curve, reveals the beauties of this Alpine area, inhabited since prehistoric times and then in Roman times, when a farmhouse was built in Giaveno. Arriving in this lovely town, whose historic centre still preserves many traces of the architecture of the past, including part of the ancient walls with their towers, we discover that the first illustrious traveller who, according to some, even gave Giaveno its name, was Hannibal, accompanied by some of his war elephants. During his crossing of the Alps, arriving here, the commander is said to have exclaimed: "Iam veni", that is, "I've been here already".

Also linked to those snowy slopes is an important first for Giaveno: in 1898 the Swiss engineer and industrialist Adolfo Kind, the first promoter of Alpine skiing, used skis for the first time on Italian mountains right here. During our walk among the characteristic views of the town, dotted with beautiful fountains, including the Fontana del Mascherone from 1622, we also visit several splendid churches. In the centre we find the Parish Church of San Lorenzo Martire, built in the early 1900s, and in Borgata Selvaggio we admire the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes. Inside it, as well as precious works of art, there is also a reconstruction of the grotto of Lourdes.

But the most important place of worship in the area, a destination for numerous pilgrims, is the Sacra di San Michele, an abbey of haunting beauty, founded between 983 and 987 and situated on the rocky spur of Mount Pirchiriano, once a favourite spot of hermits. Today, visiting the imposing religious building, whose façade is 41 metres high, we can also admire a large statue of Saint Michael the Archangel, created in 2005 by the South Tyrolean sculptor Paul De Doss-Moroder and placed on a rocky outcrop. From the entrance level we reach the church by crossing the Staircase of the Dead, where the skeletons of some monks were kept in the central niche. Having reached the top of this particular staircase, you pass through the Portal of the Zodiac, carved by Master Nicolao.

In the wonderful building we also admire the 20th-century flying buttresses, the Ruins of the New Monastery, and the Tower of Bell'Alda, dedicated to a young woman who in the 17th century came to the Sacra to pray against the evils of war, but was surprised by enemy soldiers. To escape their assault, she threw herself into the ravine, invoking the help of Saint Michael and the Virgin, and remained unharmed. When, however, out of vanity and for money she decided to attempt the jump again, she died on the spot. After also visiting the ancient workshop and the fascinating hermit's cell, we decide to return to town, and it's on via Sacra San Michele that we decide to stop for dinner, drawn by the sign of the Ristorante Pizzeria I Tre Gat.

In the restaurant's convenient car park we immediately notice a cat, and once at the table we discover that the name isn't random: "We opened in 1997 and the playful name is a tribute to the three cats that lived in the previous trattoria", the owner Fabio tells us. As we dine, we can admire various paintings and pictures on the walls, depicting the three felines. "Our cooking is inspired by the local area, but it also offers some good alternatives, for example forgotten dishes that can be rediscovered. With the freshness and quality of our products we show that you can eat very well in a pizzeria too, and at a great value for money", Mr Fabio explains. As well as the fixed menu, we can also choose from the specialities of the tasting menu, both meat and fish, which changes at least every two weeks according to the seasonality of the products.

We start with the veal in tuna sauce and the contadina-style albese, while our friends who prefer fish opt for a mixed seafood starter and the warm octopus salad. We continue with the old-style agnolotti and the tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms. We also try a lovely risotto with fondue and quail's egg, but the potato gnocchi with scallops and prawns are also a big hit. Among the main courses we can't resist the grilled tuna fillet and the Piedmontese fassone fillet with green pepper, but we also enjoy a delicious tagliata of Piedmontese beef with rocket and Pachino tomato. Our day ends on a very sweet note thanks to the tasty house desserts, including gianduia and berry bavarians, fresh fruit tarts and bignè filled with different flavours.

It will be a real pleasure to return to Giaveno, for example in September, on the occasion of the great mushroom festival, when at I Tre Gat we'll find an exclusive menu dedicated to mushrooms, with both meat and fish specialities.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante I Tre Gat Via Sacra San Michele, 48 Giaveno (TO) Tel.: 011/9377333