On the Trails of History That Lead to the Abbey: a Day in Monteveglio

That it is very lovely to go around the Bolognese hills is also said by a carefree song from a few years ago, and it is following those notes in spirit that we decide to reach Monteveglio, one of the oldest and most evocative municipalities of the territory. The gentle and varied landscape, in which extensive vineyards, green hills and ridges marked by gullies now alternate, had also pleased the prehistoric peoples who were the first to settle in these parts, followed by the ancient Romans. It is enough to travel some thirty kilometres from the Emilian capital to reach the Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio, a protected natural area of about a thousand hectares, rich in animal species, some rare, and loved by hikers for its woods and meadows.

Our walk begins right from the park's trails, which we climb on foot up to the village, but we could also reach it by car, parking just outside the walled enclosure. The medieval atmospheres make our hearts beat as soon as we pass under the vaulted gateway topped by a tower with Ghibelline merlons, architecture bearing witness to the times when the historic centre was part of a system of fortifications. What remains of the Castello della Cucherla is still evocative: the ancient keep was destroyed over the centuries, but we can still admire its portal, topped by the walkway, as well as the large visitable tower, which today defends the historical memory of the place, thanks to an exhibition route inside it, dedicated to the events that marked the town's past.

Among them, also an unexpected and abundant snowfall that in the spring of 1527 saved the village from the siege of the Landsknechts, an event recalled every year with the procession to the pieve of Santa Maria Assunta, whose 13th-century facade, with its luminous bifora, has remained unchanged over time. Our walk continues towards the most distinguished monument of the village, namely the Abbey of Monteveglio, carefully restored a few decades ago. We soon discover that the founder of the monastery, in the 11th century, was even a woman: the very powerful Countess Matilda of Canossa, who ruled a vast territory. Today the monastery is the seat of the Community of the Brothers of St Francis. We stay in the historic heart of the town for dinner too, stopping at the Trattoria del Borgo di Monteveglio, located in a building that was once part of the first ring of walls.

The characteristic atmosphere with exposed beams and the warm welcome immediately put us at ease. 'There had been a restaurant here for decades already; we took over the business, opening on the first of January 1997. We do the shopping ourselves and, besides safeguarding the flavours of the territory, also through the use of selected, zero-mile products, we enjoy inventing new dishes and pairings,' the owners, Alessandra and Paolo Parmeggiani, tell us. The cook Andrea Rubini is also part of the staff. Our dinner in the name of traditional Bolognese flavours begins with the very good tigelle, made with bread dough and cooked between two plates, and with the crescentine, rectangular in shape and fried, served with a mix of cold cuts, cheeses, jams and the typical Modenese lard pesto, with rosemary and the smell of garlic.

We continue with the very typical tortellini in broth and with the ricotta tortelloni dressed with a parmesan cream. We don't even resist the tagliatelle made by hand by a sfoglina, dressed with morels. We also taste the tagliolini with Altedo asparagus, dressed with ham powder. Chatting with the owner we discover that in summer, when it will also be possible to eat outdoors, enjoying a splendid view over the valley, they will also make courgette flowers stuffed with mozzarella and mortadella and ravioli filled with Medicina onion and fossa cheese with balsamic vinegar. Among the main courses we choose the ganassino, that is, the veal cheek, very tender thanks to cooking in red wine, and a good oven-baked aubergine cutlet with Raviggiolo cheese and tomato tartlet.

The rabbit yesterday and today is also very popular: two separate pieces, one cooked roast and the other, very tasty, cooked sous-vide at low temperature. We wash down these treats with excellent Colli Bolognesi wines, but on the list we also find several interesting labels, both regional and national. Finally, we gladly yield to the sweet temptations of the house, including the delicate chamomile flower mousse with lemon jelly, the yogurt pudding with Vignola cherries in red wine, and the ever-present Bolognese speciality, the rice cake, prepared according to the recipe of Mrs Alessandra's grandmother. A good local Nocino concludes our dinner, which we are certain to repeat soon, returning to this fabulous village during the warm season.

Text: Francesca Bertha Consultancy and photographs: Valeria Balbiano

FOR INFORMATION:

Trattoria del Borgo Via San Rocco, 12 Monteveglio (BO) Tel.: 051/6707982