Mediterranean Vibes in Val di Susa: A Trip to the Avigliana Lakes

If we asked a child to draw a fairy-tale town for a lovely day out, their felt-tip pens would most likely give us a landscape like that of Avigliana: an ancient village with medieval crenellated gates, picturesque lanes overlooked by a castle full of mysteries, and just beyond, two beautiful lakes nestled among the green hills, with sailboats on their waters and cyclists along their shores. We arrive in this splendid town, first skirting the Small Lake (Lago Piccolo) and then following the lakeside road of the Large Lake (Lago Grande). Both of glacial origin, the two lakes, together with the marshy area around them, form a nature park also home to numerous species of birds. From the floating walkway on the Lago Grande, also known as the Lake of the Madonna, we admire the view, dominated by the sanctuary of the Madonna dei Laghi.

Built in 1622, it still preserves the image of the Virgin, before which, in the 14th century, Bona of Bourbon, wife of Amadeus VI, the Green Count, prayed to be granted a son, a grace she received. But the lake, on whose marshy shores there was a pile-dwelling settlement in the Neolithic period, also preserves the sad and mysterious memory of Philip II of Savoy-Achaea, condemned to death and drowned in its icy waters in 1368 by order of the Green Count. They say his spirit still roams above the lakes. Moving into the charming historic centre, dominated by the castle that was mentioned for the first time in 1058, we visit the church of San Pietro, one of the oldest and most important in the region, founded by the Benedictine monks of Novalesa between the 9th and 10th centuries.

A pleasant stroll takes us to Piazza Conte Rosso, near which we admire the octagonal Clock Tower, built in 1330, which was the first public clock in Piedmont and the second in Italy. Getting back in the car, we reach the most remarkable place of worship in the area, a destination for numerous pilgrims: the Sacra di San Michele, an abbey of haunting beauty, founded between 983 and 987 and situated on the rocky spur of Mount Pirchiriano, once a favourite spot of hermits. Linked to the wonderful religious building is the legend of Bell'Alda, to whom a tower is dedicated. The young woman, who lived in the 17th century, once came to the Sacra to pray against the evils of war, but was surprised by enemy soldiers. To escape their assault, she threw herself into the ravine, invoking the help of Saint Michael and the Virgin, and remained unharmed.

When, however, out of vanity and for money she decided to attempt the jump again, she died on the spot. Feeling a little peckish, we return to town and decide to stop for dinner at the Ristorante Pizzeria Donna Sofì, on via Giaveno. The moment we go in, our journey within a journey begins: as if by magic, we find ourselves enveloped in the warm atmosphere of Naples, and welcoming us, along with the owner, Mr Piero Milione, known as Vasinicola, is the legendary Sophia Loren, to whom the place is dedicated. It's among the splendid photos of the diva, as well as those portraying characteristic Neapolitan views, that we begin to savour the authentic Neapolitan pizza, also available by the metre. Among the many varieties we try the Donna Sofì pizza, but we also sample the one with burrata and a few with amusing names like "D'ò fetente" and "La Vigliacca", all delicious.

As we study the menu, we chat with Mr Piero, a catering professional for over thirty years: "This place has been going for almost a century, it was founded in 1920 under the name Benna Bianca. At first it was 'the little white house' that served as a tool shed for the farmers. Then the inn was born, becoming a landmark for travellers in Val di Susa. I took it over in 2003, and when its tenth anniversary came round, I decided to celebrate it by naming the restaurant Donna Sofì, the proudest icon of Neapolitan culture", the owner tells us, whose work is also appreciated by many of today's showbiz personalities, often his guests.

Among the restaurant's specialities we enjoy the spaghetti with a triumph of seafood in parchment, the linguine alla Sofì, but we can't resist the paccheri and tracchiulelle either, with Neapolitan ragù with pork ribs, and the authentic scialatiello, made with fresh Neapolitan pasta. We continue with the scarpariello prawns, an exquisite house speciality, while the others in the group enjoy a lovely mixed fish grill and a generous fry of small fish. The "carnivore" friends very much appreciate the Angus tagliata and the grilled fillet. Finally, we happily give in to the sweet Neapolitan temptations, including the Delizia di Sofia, the Neapolitan zeppola and the rum baba. There's no doubt we'll be back here soon, also to take part in the live music evenings hosted by Patrizio, Mr Piero's son, and to enjoy lovely Mediterranean evenings on the terrace.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Pizzeria Donna Sofì Via Giaveno, 69 Avigliana (TO) Tel.: 011/9369199